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It would have been good to see a before and after picture.
I used K&H extra cut finished with the K&H polymer wax in the past 10 years but belive it or not now Im using the good ol KITTEN No2 cut and polish finished with KITTEN No1 cream polish wax.......Can be brought at any automotive shop and is alot cheaper than marine products! works a treat and easy to use....wipe on polish off.
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Photo's as requested Southace
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Tell us a bit more about the prop speed. Do it yourself or pay for the highly trained expert? Second mortgage required?
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Ramona
Regarding the prop speed the cost was $90.00 but you have to be licensed to purchase and apply the product.
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Hi Disraeli,
I paid 50% more than that to get the prop speed applied to a 3 bladed prop and shaft at the same marina about 6 months ago . Is yours a saildrive or a 2 bladed prop ?
this is the second slipping I have had the propspeed applied and it is worth the money I reckon
Steve
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Hi Pilgrim
My prop is a 2 blade fixed, I also agree with the use of prop speed, before I decided to use the product I viewed a prop that had been in the water for 2 years and the product was holding up fine.
Do you sail on Lake Macquarie....?
Dissy
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Hi Disralei,
any links of info you can post on this new gear?
or where it can be bought?
I have fallen back to using automotive polish, some of the international marine stuff I found a little dissapointing (hard to remove even with a buffer, and not much shine), and not to be as good as Kitten.
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The key to getting a great shine on gel coat is to not use a cutter that is silicone or wax based, send me an E mail and I will forward to you the info on product and the how to buff your boat info.
Dissy
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Try these people http://www.pacer.com.au/ for all sorts of goodies for your boat and car.
Harry
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The reason I asked about the prop speed was that locally I see plenty of motor cruisers having the job done. They pay $250 a prop upwards!
We should probably have a thread one day on prop finishing. I have used various antifoulings, lanolin and leaving bare bronze. My yacht has a two blade folder and needs a regular scrub to keep it sweet.
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Before the days of propspeed the racing yachts would use a texta colour on there folding prop,
I use the same antifoul I use on the hull for Shaft,skeg and Prop 3 coats micron extra.
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For anyone that is interested in buffing your boat try using the directions included and you will be most impressed with the finish
Regards
Disralei
BOAT POLISH WAX
A) Boat Wash Stage:- Use Oxalic Acid (On /Off) direct from bottle or dilute
1) Do not let to dry keep of metal (10 Mins. Max)
2) Tape plastic to bottom mark line to stop any drips hitting underside
B) Cutting Stage:- Use Presta Super Cut (600 Grit) or Gel Coat Compound (800 Grit)
Use 3M wool Buff 05711 (hookit)
1) Use misting spray to keep moist
2) 600 speed then 1000 speed
3) Work machine criss cross not circular motion
4) Keep disk flat
5) No not wash buffing Pad in Hot water only hold (work your fingers into pad Spin Dry in a bucket then hand towel dry
C) Fine Cut Stage:- Presta Ultra Cut , Its Best to do this also for good finish
Use 3M Wool Buff 05713 (Yellow Pad)
1) As above for Applying
D) Waxing Stage:- Presta Banana Wax , 2 Coats best
Use Megquires 4 dia round foam applicator to Apply
Remove using Mico fibre Rags
1) Mist Hull
2) Liberally apply Wax
3) Wait for it to haze 80%
4) Buff by Hand , Leave small strip un polished to see new over lay
Note:- Do not wash Mico Fibre in Fabric Softener It Kills the Mico Fibres
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Disralei said...
For anyone that is interested in buffing your boat try using the directions included and you will be most impressed with the finish
Regards
Disralei
BOAT POLISH WAX
A) Boat Wash Stage:- Use Oxalic Acid (On /Off) direct from bottle or dilute
1) Do not let to dry keep of metal (10 Mins. Max)
2) Tape plastic to bottom mark line to stop any drips hitting underside
B) Cutting Stage:- Use Presta Super Cut (600 Grit) or Gel Coat Compound (800 Grit)
Use 3M wool Buff 05711 (hookit)
1) Use misting spray to keep moist
2) 600 speed then 1000 speed
3) Work machine criss cross not circular motion
4) Keep disk flat
5) No not wash buffing Pad in Hot water only hold (work your fingers into pad Spin Dry in a bucket then hand towel dry
C) Fine Cut Stage:- Presta Ultra Cut , Its Best to do this also for good finish
Use 3M Wool Buff 05713 (Yellow Pad)
1) As above for Applying
D) Waxing Stage:- Presta Banana Wax , 2 Coats best
Use Megquires 4 dia round foam applicator to Apply
Remove using Mico fibre Rags
1) Mist Hull
2) Liberally apply Wax
3) Wait for it to haze 80%
4) Buff by Hand , Leave small strip un polished to see new over lay
Note:- Do not wash Mico Fibre in Fabric Softener It Kills the Mico Fibres
I have always used Farecla products . Same application procedure as above. It's not the product but it is the ELBOW GREASE. There are no shortcuts. You need a coarse compound to cut away oxidized gel coat. A fine polishing compound to polish out the scratches left by the cutting compound and a wax to soak in and preserve the finish. There is no single "wonder product" that will do it all and there is no substitute for physical effort on the other side of a buffing machine with correct pads for the job. It is hard work but in my opinion worth the effort. If you can afford it you can probably pay someone to do the job, presumably you own a big stink boat in that case. Otherwise you can glow in your own reflection in the topsides.
Actually it is a valid measure to hold a tape measure at right angles to the surface and take a reading of the reflection, if you can read 100mm on the tape measure you have got a nice finish.
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you missed a bit  
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There is an old retired couple locally [older than me] that work for their nephew, shipwright/ slipway operator. They do the whole bit from blasting and antifouling to polishing. Their efforts with the polishing are outstanding and I just might consider employing them to do my topsides. Spread the wealth and get a good job at the same time. I have tried to find out what products they use but they are in industrial size containers and they are a tad secretive. Bloke down the street had his Pion done during the week so I will have to inquire on costs.
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Thanks Ramona for the feed back, look forward to hearing what you get out of the old couple.
I viewed a yacht up on the hard yesterday that had prop speed on the propeller, it had been in the water for just on 2 years and at little wear, however I could not determine how long or often the engine had been used but the prop was in excellent condition as it was encased with the coating. I will continue to use the product. 
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Disralei said...
Thanks Ramona for the feed back, look forward to hearing what you get out of the old couple.
I viewed a yacht up on the hard yesterday that had prop speed on the propeller, it had been in the water for just on 2 years and at little wear, however I could not determine how long or often the engine had been used but the prop was in excellent condition as it was encased with the coating. I will continue to use the product.
I have not tried prop speed but the next slipping I an going to try polishing. Seems to have a strong following else where. Lot of work the first time apparently but it seems a mirror finish on bronze is effective.
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Funny, given that there are anti fouling paints that contain copper to keep the growth away, yet a bronze propeller which is mainly copper won't inhibit growth
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LooseChange said...
Funny, given that there are anti fouling paints that contain copper to keep the growth away, yet a bronze propeller which is mainly copper won't inhibit growth
Down at Ulladulla this morning Harry and there was a Bertram 25 on the slips. Nice coat of prop speed on the propeller and rudder but the shaft and bronze skeg were untreated. Going to be a nice barnacle collector shortly.
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Hi Disraeli
Just sent you an email regarding the beaut look! 
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working at a boat yard for a while a bit back .. we made out own prop speed .. not the gold primer but the clear coat that goes on top .. epoxy thinners was one ingrediant .. was 2 other easy to get chems as well .. so worth it .. removeing barnies from the inner working of a folding prop is hell
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