This time of year its the little gromets and school kids that only go out when its 1 or 2 foot that you need to avoid. Good kids and all, and **** hot surfers, but this little bastards are like swarms of flys. They move into a break and take over.
There is nothing better in my opinion that being the only one out, early in the morning. I would even go to a lesser break for a solo session. I only need 1 good wave to set me up for a good day at work.
This time of year its the little gromets and school kids that only go out when its 1 or 2 foot that you need to avoid. Good kids and all, and **** hot surfers, but this little bastards are like swarms of flys. They move into a break and take over.
There is nothing better in my opinion that being the only one out, early in the morning. I would even go to a lesser break for a solo session. I only need 1 good wave to set me up for a good day at work.
Now I know what is wrong with my life....
1 I work too much
2 I don't live close enough to the coast to be able to surf in the morning
3 I cannot remember the last time I had a good day at work
Hmmm, maybe I should take an extra week off and go surfing for a fortnight to set me up for next year