Thanks. Pretty pleased with the result. Probably ended up round 7kg. but strong. Sailed it twice last week on chop...no cracks. Need to jump test it now! Feels like a new board. I've never sailed a Freestyle Wave. Planes quick and quite lively. Very different to my '12 Single Thruster. Needs a very different technique to turn it.
Here's a bad nose crunch.
This one has been smashed repeatedly. It was patched up with Q-cel. But the last hit shattered it an made the whole nose soft. Major surgery required!
Hollowed out deep getting out all soft EPS.
Pre cut PVC. Can't source thicker PVC here ATM
Fill with foaming resin, then shove PVC in FAST. Rubber gloves a must as foam spews out having to be wiped away by hand.
Not quite as neat an outcome as my brand new Twin RUNT, but I am a bit fussy about how things look.............................
Select to expand quoteGclark1 said..
Not quite as neat an outcome as my brand new Twin RUNT, but I am a bit fussy about how things look.............................
Getting neater. Carbon Fibre next.
Select to expand quoteKazza said..
And yet another repair discussion will be on soon......... 
Pretty funny being stuck to my board with the harness hook speared through the deck. Thanks for the :"Dingstick" Kazza. I was back on the water in 10 mins. It has to be the record for the most "Dingstick"used in one go to get back on the water for the best sea breeze of the summer yet. The 106 is starting to look like a "Battleaxe"
The emergency repair is an "Iceberg" There must be a 1/4 of a kg in there! Going to fe a challenge getting it out.
Carbon next
Peel ply. I was considering vac bagging....
Taping up tightly nearly as effective.
Ready to sunbake for the day while I go to work
Sanded. I always get "Pin Holes" in my Q-cell. Small volumes wont cure to fill the holes. This automotive product does the trick to fix the minor imperfections. No need for mixing. A quick sand and ready for primer & Paint.
The damage on this is not structural. The approach here is to drill holes to pull the skin out using a small hook, fill the void with foaming resin and glue the cracks. Much less work than grinding out and re-laminating!
Q-cell
Sand
The chunk on the sharp railed tail is solid epoxy resin glue with a fine coat of Q-cell
Then paint. It will never match though!
Select to expand quoteRelic said..
Kazza said..
And yet another repair discussion will be on soon.........
Pretty funny being stuck to my board with the harness hook speared through the deck. Thanks for the :"Dingstick" Kazza. I was back on the water in 10 mins. It has to be the record for the most "Dingstick"used in one go to get back on the water for the best sea breeze of the summer yet. The 106 is starting to look like a "Battleaxe"
The emergency repair is an "Iceberg" There must be a 1/4 of a kg in there! Going to fe a challenge getting it out.
I've been wondering how the hell to fix my trusty floater.
The "Knead It" amazingly kept the core dry despite being sailed for two hours after being holed.
It took some getting out! I left it to sun-bake for the day to be certain it was totally dry.
All chopped out with replacement parts ready.
Set in with foaming resin.
CF cut out & wetted out. Epoxy resin glue mixed to bond PVC Some 4 oz glass is in the hole already
Peel ply, a layer of vac bag plastic & vac sticky seal around the repair
Vac on
Peel ply removed revealed a dent due to suction around vac coupler. Maybe someting flat and rigid under breather cloth would stop this.
Filled & sanded it.
Another attempt to match the Carbon Inegra
Pigmented UV stable epoxy resin over the top
Once the gip goes on it should soften the effect.
I think you'll be able to open up a boarding mending business now Paul. Sounds like it will be full time as well. 
Select to expand quoteKazza said..
I think you'll be able to open up a boarding mending business now Paul. Sounds like it will be full time as well.
Just favours...money=problems
All patched up ready for more abuse! Beware...never assume a Q-cell "bog-up" will keep water out. The stuff is lots of microscopic spheres. It should be sealed with resin or paint.
The only way to match metallic paint, or any other paint is to repaint the lot! Unless the exact paint code can be found even then it never matches. That's why automotive repairs cost a lot!!
A contrast always works. No pretending a repair has been done!
For sale JP slalom board 101 .
In perfect condition , been sideways ,many times ,and even done some circle work. Now that's a slalom board. Strong as ,been professionally repaired, with love ,fast ,exhilarating,good fun board, going cheap $ 2000 you know you want it.
Cheers , Relic Board Repairs Hobart.
Yep. Awesome job Relic! Better than new. Looking at the final result from sunny Stockholm. Can't wait to get back and into the water and give it a test run. Thanks again mate!
Always a pleasure to helps some mates who have broken their toys; on or off the water!
I started the thread to share info on repairing boards. It was not intended as an advertisement. I had virtually no experience with the new skool composites when I returned to the sport four yeas ago. Paying for repairs often exceeds the value of a board. It's very labour intensive. There is info on the web on how to fix boards. The Board Lady is probably the best and most comprehensive. There are also many people on this forum with a wealth of knowledge who are happy to share. With a little practice anyone can do it. It just takes time and patience.
