Forums > General Discussion   Shooting the breeze...

Bloody dynabolts

Reply
Created by myusernam > 9 months ago, 24 May 2020
myusernam
QLD, 6085 posts
24 May 2020 8:21PM
Thumbs Up

Ok brains trust. I have a masonary block house and dynabolts work shxt. If you drill into the mortar they dont work/ hole ends up too big, and in the hollow parts they dont work properly either - dont grip etc. What should i be using? Aircon brackets, gates etc

pepe47
WA, 1379 posts
24 May 2020 6:48PM
Thumbs Up

I use a size or two smaller than needed, then use an old drill bit to size it when using mortar joints. Also makes it easier to stop the bit wandering on start up.
Also makes the dyna bolt more snug, which is vital for tightening.

shoodbegood
VIC, 873 posts
24 May 2020 8:53PM
Thumbs Up


Try using Ramset "Hollow Brick and Block Anchoring System".

Dynas and Tru-Bolts don't work in hollow blocks.

Razzonater
2224 posts
24 May 2020 7:04PM
Thumbs Up

Chemsets are best for vertical where you won't lose it into a void, they are bulletproof strong

with hollow bricks it may pay to use Ramset it's a pink coloured product and not too offensively expensive so when it goes into a hole if there is a void just put extra in, the only bad bit is it takes 12-24 hours to cure properly

shoodbegood
VIC, 873 posts
24 May 2020 9:11PM
Thumbs Up


The Ramset Hollow Block and Brick system has a "cage" type arrangement to hold the chemist epoxy in place, they work great.

Im sure every other manufacturer has a similar product.

kk
WA, 940 posts
24 May 2020 7:26PM
Thumbs Up

^^^ Agreed the injection type chemical anchors are the only way to go, the cages can be expensive and are not always available a rolled tube of fly wire can do the job pretty well too, just don't push the whole roll through when inserting the bolt. Look at the commercial ones to get an idea of what you need to make.

With system I often use (powers k2) I am able to wash out the mixing tube if I'm quick by forcing tap water through it, also you can squeeze some mix out straight out of the tube without the nozzle and mix like you would Araldite (spelling?) and smother things like dynabolts prior to insertion.

Toesup
WA, 93 posts
24 May 2020 7:27PM
Thumbs Up

I have a sandstone house, very soft compared to granet, the only way I attach to the walls is mongu bolts, plastic liner that expands and grabs the stone as u do the bolt up, they really work, I have used them to attach a veranda to the stone walls, pm me I have some tips on how to use them correctly.

Toesup
WA, 93 posts
24 May 2020 7:32PM
Thumbs Up

Sorry mungo bolts, nothing else works

Pugwash
WA, 7670 posts
24 May 2020 8:19PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Toesup said..
Sorry mungo bolts, nothing else works


+1 for mungo bolts...

TonyAbbott
866 posts
24 May 2020 9:22PM
Thumbs Up

Not sure this will help as the advice above is excellent...


but I found that when I was drilling holes in brick the holes were ending up too large as well. Using the different coloured masonry plugs or dyna-bolts, things were not holding well enough. What it was in the end was that I was not using a fast enough hammer drill speed. I was being too much of a 'nancy boy' with it. I grew a larger set, held the trigger down more, got a cleaner drill hole, plugs fitted better, things held.

cauncy
WA, 8407 posts
24 May 2020 9:54PM
Thumbs Up

Righto, chemi anchors work in nearly all applications
But prep is critical ie clean and dust free
Mungos work well on hollow and solid masonry
But crap on limestone or softer masonry, they spin out
Powers threaded masonry bolts are the gun in solid masonry
Dyna bolts are best left on the shelf
Certain old methods work well, such as driving 12 mmm reo into 11 mm hole, or using a well used sds to achieve a tighter fix of said diameter, sandwich or through bolting
I always look a construction and pre plan locations where fixings are required for construction
For example ill get the brick layer to run courses of solids on a hollow brick job if it'll assist fixings of wall plates or pitching beams

Toesup
WA, 93 posts
24 May 2020 9:57PM
Thumbs Up

Repeat, when it comes to attaching to soft stone mungo bolts are the best way, I should know as I'm a stone Mason, before the fancy on shelf ones we used garden hose and other plastic tubing to screw bolts into, once tight you can't pull the bolts out, steel flogs the stone out.

cauncy
WA, 8407 posts
24 May 2020 10:20PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Toesup said..
Repeat, when it comes to attaching to soft stone mungo bolts are the best way, I should know as I'm a stone Mason, before the fancy on shelf ones we used garden hose and other plastic tubing to screw bolts into, once tight you can't pull the bolts out, steel flogs the stone out.



Not in limestone, dolomite er similar don't reach any engineering specs on pull or uplifting force's these as you'd know are due to highly inconsistent density
Of materials, this is why you see decorative plates on lots of historic stone built property, using sandwich bolt methods, but times money today in all aspects of construction, I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house,

Toesup
WA, 93 posts
24 May 2020 11:34PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
cauncy said..

Toesup said..
Repeat, when it comes to attaching to soft stone mungo bolts are the best way, I should know as I'm a stone Mason, before the fancy on shelf ones we used garden hose and other plastic tubing to screw bolts into, once tight you can't pull the bolts out, steel flogs the stone out.




Not in limestone, dolomite er similar don't reach any engineering specs on pull or uplifting force's these as you'd know are due to highly inconsistent density
Of materials, this is why you see decorative plates on lots of historic stone built property, using sandwich bolt methods, but times money today in all aspects of construction, I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house,


OK so why did the council approve mungo bolts when I submitted my application?

psychojoe
WA, 1797 posts
25 May 2020 5:16AM
Thumbs Up

Hang on kids, not only is this thread informative, it's turning into a pissing contest. Let me get some popcorn.

BlueMoon
865 posts
25 May 2020 6:17AM
Thumbs Up

Hehe yeah,
question was correctly answered with first reply

Harrow
NSW, 4520 posts
25 May 2020 12:02PM
Thumbs Up

Love the Mungo's too. Gave up on dynabolts and concrete screws long ago....too hit and miss in weak bricks and dodgy concrete...especially that cheap, low MPa rubbish they use to make swimming pools. I use the Ramset version (RamPlug Nylon Frame Anchor), and like the fact that you know you can always remove it later on if needed. If you don't necessarily need the strength of the chemsets, they're a great option.

Answered right in first reply? It's just a link to lots of different options, isn't it?

cauncy
WA, 8407 posts
25 May 2020 10:22AM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Toesup said..

cauncy said..


Toesup said..
Repeat, when it comes to attaching to soft stone mungo bolts are the best way, I should know as I'm a stone Mason, before the fancy on shelf ones we used garden hose and other plastic tubing to screw bolts into, once tight you can't pull the bolts out, steel flogs the stone out.





Not in limestone, dolomite er similar don't reach any engineering specs on pull or uplifting force's these as you'd know are due to highly inconsistent density
Of materials, this is why you see decorative plates on lots of historic stone built property, using sandwich bolt methods, but times money today in all aspects of construction, I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house,



OK so why did the council approve mungo bolts when I submitted my application?


I'd say they'd just tick the boxes, the fixings are engineered / sheer load rates but likely you'll not get one with the stone
Bricks have crush strength ratings, also almost certain the bloke in the shire planning has little idea
Everything gets passed down the line when there is a failure, usually ending up with an error in applications
Stonework is a tricky one as mentioned, it's a natural product not engineered stone and can be a bit hit n miss getting a good bite with fixings

cauncy
WA, 8407 posts
25 May 2020 10:26AM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
psychojoe said..
Hang on kids, not only is this thread informative, it's turning into a pissing contest. Let me get some popcorn

Certainly not, I have a lot of respect for stone masons
Did years of it in the UK and the back country in southern France
Gives you plenty of satisfaction turning a rugged raw material into a thing of beauty which lasts a lifetime
But very demanding on the body as well

Harrow
NSW, 4520 posts
25 May 2020 1:25PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
cauncy said..
I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house.

Sounds like your originally from the UK? It's always amusing to hear immigrants say what a joke corrugated iron roofs are on expensive houses. I'm not sure if they're missing the cultural part of it here, or if BHP has just done a great job of marketing. Probably a bit of both.

FormulaNova
WA, 14040 posts
25 May 2020 12:42PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Harrow said..
cauncy said..
I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house.

Sounds like your originally from the UK? It's always amusing to hear immigrants say what a joke corrugated iron roofs are on expensive houses. I'm not sure if they're missing the cultural part of it here, or if BHP has just done a great job of marketing. Probably a bit of both.


What are the options anyway? Tiles or steel? I can't see too many people opting for a slate roof here in Aus.

I have a clay tile roof, and that stupid things break after 50 years and any weight on them and after so many tradies removing the tie-downs on them, the roof is only held together by its own weight. At least a colorbond roof would be one nice weatherproof piece.

My elderly neighbour was telling me that when they built their house, just after WWII, you had to apply for building materials, and when your lot came up, you took them, with no real choice in the matter.

I think a lot of these new builds around the place are inspired by Lebanon anyway, and the roof seems to be a hidden feature where you can install your guards and their weapons. You wouldn't know what it is up there. Most likely steel, but who knows.

bjwedes
NSW, 150 posts
25 May 2020 5:38PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
FormulaNova said..

Harrow said..

cauncy said..
I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house.


Sounds like your originally from the UK? It's always amusing to hear immigrants say what a joke corrugated iron roofs are on expensive houses. I'm not sure if they're missing the cultural part of it here, or if BHP has just done a great job of marketing. Probably a bit of both.



What are the options anyway? Tiles or steel? I can't see too many people opting for a slate roof here in Aus.

I have a clay tile roof, and that stupid things break after 50 years and any weight on them and after so many tradies removing the tie-downs on them, the roof is only held together by its own weight. At least a colorbond roof would be one nice weatherproof piece.

My elderly neighbour was telling me that when they built their house, just after WWII, you had to apply for building materials, and when your lot came up, you took them, with no real choice in the matter.

I think a lot of these new builds around the place are inspired by Lebanon anyway, and the roof seems to be a hidden feature where you can install your guards and their weapons. You wouldn't know what it is up there. Most likely steel, but who knows.


Or as they do in Lebanon and other Middle East countries, sit out on them on hot evenings and relax.

saltiest1
NSW, 2475 posts
25 May 2020 6:00PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Harrow said..

cauncy said..
I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house.


Sounds like your originally from the UK? It's always amusing to hear immigrants say what a joke corrugated iron roofs are on expensive houses. I'm not sure if they're missing the cultural part of it here, or if BHP has just done a great job of marketing. Probably a bit of both.


+1
Drives me nuts to hear someone come here and suggest our construction methods are either incorrect or sub par because "it's not the way we do it back home".

FormulaNova
WA, 14040 posts
25 May 2020 4:23PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
bjwedes said..

FormulaNova said..


Harrow said..


cauncy said..
I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house.



Sounds like your originally from the UK? It's always amusing to hear immigrants say what a joke corrugated iron roofs are on expensive houses. I'm not sure if they're missing the cultural part of it here, or if BHP has just done a great job of marketing. Probably a bit of both.




What are the options anyway? Tiles or steel? I can't see too many people opting for a slate roof here in Aus.

I have a clay tile roof, and that stupid things break after 50 years and any weight on them and after so many tradies removing the tie-downs on them, the roof is only held together by its own weight. At least a colorbond roof would be one nice weatherproof piece.

My elderly neighbour was telling me that when they built their house, just after WWII, you had to apply for building materials, and when your lot came up, you took them, with no real choice in the matter.

I think a lot of these new builds around the place are inspired by Lebanon anyway, and the roof seems to be a hidden feature where you can install your guards and their weapons. You wouldn't know what it is up there. Most likely steel, but who knows.



Or as they do in Lebanon and other Middle East countries, sit out on them on hot evenings and relax.


When I went to Egypt on a windsurfing holiday I noticed that a lot of buildings have 'starter-bars' protruding through the upper roof (i.e. to tie further steel reinforcing bars to) on most houses. I guess that's the thing to do when you build as you need to. Probably to accommodate larger families as the kids have families of their own.

I have seen the same thing now in a few other places, and I guess its common.

FormulaNova
WA, 14040 posts
25 May 2020 5:11PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
saltiest1 said..

Harrow said..


cauncy said..
I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house.



Sounds like your originally from the UK? It's always amusing to hear immigrants say what a joke corrugated iron roofs are on expensive houses. I'm not sure if they're missing the cultural part of it here, or if BHP has just done a great job of marketing. Probably a bit of both.



+1
Drives me nuts to hear someone come here and suggest our construction methods are either incorrect or sub par because "it's not the way we do it back home".


I think a lot of English people come here and cannot believe that our houses are not as well insulated as theirs. I guess it comes down to diminishing returns, as how much extra benefit are we going to see for the cost required. Sure we could insulate our houses much better and have at least double-glazing, but who wants to pay for it?

woko
NSW, 1514 posts
25 May 2020 7:38PM
Thumbs Up

Nothing to do with dynabolts, but as to building material an Irish lass I spent an enjoyable few months with was perplexed that in auss we build houses out of timber not stone

cauncy
WA, 8407 posts
25 May 2020 5:52PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
saltiest1 said..


Harrow said..



cauncy said..
I'd spend months slating roofs on queens trusses roofs with decorative lead and copper work, here they slap f#####g tin on a million dollar house.




Sounds like your originally from the UK? It's always amusing to hear immigrants say what a joke corrugated iron roofs are on expensive houses. I'm not sure if they're missing the cultural part of it here, or if BHP has just done a great job of marketing. Probably a bit of both.




+1
Drives me nuts to hear someone come here and suggest our construction methods are either incorrect or sub par because "it's not the way we do it back home".



Id go further to say they're sh##e TBH, I've built in 7 different countries and without doubt we use the cheapest lowest class of materials I've come across here in Australia
You'll be lucky to pay off your mortgage before your home is falling to pieces a bit of a shame as we have some good tradesmen, but lack craftsmen

BlueMoon
865 posts
25 May 2020 5:55PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Harrow said..
Love the Mungo's too. Gave up on dynabolts and concrete screws long ago....too hit and miss in weak bricks and dodgy concrete...especially that cheap, low MPa rubbish they use to make swimming pools. I use the Ramset version (RamPlug Nylon Frame Anchor), and like the fact that you know you can always remove it later on if needed. If you don't necessarily need the strength of the chemsets, they're a great option.

Answered right in first reply? It's just a link to lots of different options, isn't it?



The second link, in the first reply shows the Black tip thunderbolt hex head screw, anka-screw or whatever name the different companies call their "concrete screw" product.
Good things about them, there simple, no moving parts,
strong, a 10mm hole gets a 10mm screw, not an 8mm like a dynabolt or mungo, your never going to strip the thread.
you can back them out easily,
good for hollow masonry as they grip along any or all of their length,
most importantly they dont expand the substrate, risking a blow out

kk
WA, 940 posts
25 May 2020 6:16PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
BlueMoon said..

Harrow said..
Love the Mungo's too. Gave up on dynabolts and concrete screws long ago....too hit and miss in weak bricks and dodgy concrete...especially that cheap, low MPa rubbish they use to make swimming pools. I use the Ramset version (RamPlug Nylon Frame Anchor), and like the fact that you know you can always remove it later on if needed. If you don't necessarily need the strength of the chemsets, they're a great option.

Answered right in first reply? It's just a link to lots of different options, isn't it?




The second link, in the first reply shows the Black tip thunderbolt hex head screw, anka-screw or whatever name the different companies call their "concrete screw" product.
Good things about them, there simple, no moving parts,
strong, a 10mm hole gets a 10mm screw, not an 8mm like a dynabolt or mungo, your never going to strip the thread.
you can back them out easily,
good for hollow masonry as they grip along any or all of their length,
most importantly they dont expand the substrate, risking a blow out


If you haven't had them blow out or strip you haven't used them much in the various situations being given above, sure they have their place and I have used for many things but they don't suit in a lot of cases .

shoodbegood
VIC, 873 posts
26 May 2020 9:07PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
woko said..
Nothing to do with dynabolts, but as to building material an Irish lass I spent an enjoyable few months with was perplexed that in auss we build houses out of timber not stone


And I knew an Irish fella who kept putting nails back in his nail bag, nearly every second one.

"Why do you keep putting' them away mate?"

"The points at the wrong end, they're for the other side of the house".



Subscribe
Reply

Forums > General Discussion   Shooting the breeze...


"Bloody dynabolts" started by myusernam