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Let's talk wave slashing

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Created by kemp90 1 month ago, 17 Jan 2019
kemp90
QLD, 1638 posts
17 Jan 2019 8:42AM
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firstly, I'm definitely no wave ripping guru, but I'm really enjoying playing in the surf.

Here in central qld. We have small 1-2 ft choppy mushy waves with a on shore/ cross on wind, so less then ideal conditions.

I ride a 5,4 with thrusters.

I love hitting the lip and throwing the fins with a little Indi grab.
However if I want to stick the turn and throw a huge spray, I find myself loosing grip and sliding out, unless I stay more upright and wrap it around into a semi cut back.

so my question is should I upgrade my board and get one with a quad setup,
Or just try bigger fins for the thrusters to get more grip?

i have used a quad surfing before and didn't like it tho.

Thanks.
kemp.

DJMWA
WA, 283 posts
17 Jan 2019 7:12AM
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Could be board or could be technique or could be both ??
Traditionally speaking, boards with a wide tail and full rails are difficult to stay put on rail with any speed/power. What are the rest the boards dims?
Also if you're standing too upright with too much front foot pressure you'll never hold a turn without sliding out if travelling at speed. If you want to hack a big power turn it's all back foot and low centre of gravity boyo. Think Occy and Tom Carrol

Gilly3
QLD, 720 posts
17 Jan 2019 9:12AM
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Ohhh noooo,

Whats happened champ?? Too many injuries from freestyle??

You going to Elliot Heads in Feb??

kemp90
QLD, 1638 posts
17 Jan 2019 9:52AM
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Select to expand quote
DJMWA said..
Could be board or could be technique or could be both ??
Traditionally speaking, boards with a wide tail and full rails are difficult to stay put on rail with any speed/power. What are the rest the boards dims?
Also if you're standing too upright with too much front foot pressure you'll never hold a turn without sliding out if travelling at speed. If you want to hack a big power turn it's all back foot and low centre of gravity boyo. Think Occy and Tom Carrol


Not sure if the rest of the dimensions, it a loose board generally, with a square tail.

kemp90
QLD, 1638 posts
17 Jan 2019 9:53AM
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Gilly3 said..
Ohhh noooo,

Whats happened champ?? Too many injuries from freestyle??

You going to Elliot Heads in Feb??


Hahah I go through phases. Last year it was foil. Now it's surf. Next year probably paragliding haha.

Yeh I do want to go down I think. I only just saw that it was on.

DJMWA
WA, 283 posts
17 Jan 2019 8:33AM
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Maybe post a few pics of your board?
Fins are a tricky one, some people love playing around with different combinations and sizes for different conditions but I personally hate it. After 25 years of surfing I have two sets of fins, one quad set and one thruster set . There's just so many nuances with fins it's out of control.
Maybe you could track down a cheap old traditional shaped surfboard and give that a whirl and see what you think (something similar to the North wam if you're unsure.) Fins are so bloody expensive nowadays that it'll probably be the same price.

smook
VIC, 72 posts
17 Jan 2019 12:44PM
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Have experimented on size of fins Thruster using small to medium J J on my wave model 5'6" and 5'2"Shredder model /cut off nose and was happy with the small but when doing a big turn was not in control So Happy with the Mediums now But if you are over 80kg You may Need Large fins Note these boards are only 2" with fin rails Also have used Quads back 2011 they generate more speed but for me do not turn as well When doing hard bottom turn only side fin and rail are engaging The rest is out of the water

Plummet
4306 posts
17 Jan 2019 10:07AM
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N +1

Adam''KiteRepair
NSW, 59 posts
17 Jan 2019 3:20PM
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Laying rail Into a small fat wave will almost always slide out bro. Peaky A frames are what you need. Not very typical to your area. Bigger thruster may bail you out on your current set up, but who knows.

Don't right off quads because of one bad experience either. Every board in my quiver has a different fin set up, and 2 of those boards I change from thruster to quad depending on condition. 5 fin boxes are pretty sweet to have with the right board. Just so you can experiment. Changes up the feel so much and adds to the fun

quikdrawMcgraw
842 posts
17 Jan 2019 12:21PM
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Go to wreck bay gki

Adam''KiteRepair
NSW, 59 posts
17 Jan 2019 4:04PM
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quikdrawMcgraw said..
Go to wreck bay gki


Had to Google that one. Looks like a sick spot.

kemp90
QLD, 1638 posts
17 Jan 2019 4:36PM
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Yeh, wreck beach is a lot of hassle. On the reef there are perfect A frames haha.

Thanks guys. Think I'll try go bigger. But fins are dam expensive, god knows why

Adam''KiteRepair
NSW, 59 posts
17 Jan 2019 5:45PM
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kemp90 said..
Yeh, wreck beach is a lot of hassle. On the reef there are perfect A frames haha.

Thanks guys. Think I'll try go bigger. But fins are dam expensive, god knows why


Gumtree man. Alot of surfers will install as soon as they don't like what they baught.

rscaife
WA, 96 posts
17 Jan 2019 3:20PM
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In case of interest: I have a 5'10" thruster (round tail) and a 5'7" quad (square tail and bamboo fins). The 'hold' (on the water/lip) of the quad is phenomenal (can massively load the rail (off-the-lip 'slash' or drawn out high-speed bottom turn) without the slightest hint of sideslip). Other differences between the two boards (e.g. the rails) presumably also affect the turn/grip, but In my opinion, in less than waist high waves, quad 'rules' for sure (more precision, control, and grip).

Kite2Surf
2 posts
18 Jan 2019 10:26PM
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If it's on a surfboard, go a small centre fin and large side fins. If it's a kite company surfboard they never "feel" quite right usually too much rocker so go big fins all round. I find AM1 fins are good for drive up to the lip!

Adam''KiteRepair
NSW, 59 posts
19 Jan 2019 8:47AM
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Select to expand quote
Adam''KiteRepair said..

kemp90 said..
Yeh, wreck beach is a lot of hassle. On the reef there are perfect A frames haha.

Thanks guys. Think I'll try go bigger. But fins are dam expensive, god knows why



Gumtree man. Alot of surfers will install as soon as they don't like what they baught.


*unsell

JKimbler
315 posts
22 Jan 2019 8:51AM
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Lots of finesse works for me kiting and regular surfing. Experiment with more front foot pressure, foot position, etc. Try and really, really, pay attention to the details of what you are directing the board to do. Ease it into the turn, go full blast when you are certain you are carving and not just sliding the tail out. Just my approach, hope it makes sense!



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"Let's talk wave slashing" started by kemp90