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Spectra Depower Line

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Created by acitta A week ago, 8 Oct 2019
acitta
VIC, 149 posts
8 Oct 2019 1:02PM
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Sick of replacing my Dyneema power line (the main line that goes through the bar between the chicken loop and depower cleat) I decided to try something with some abrasion resistance. Mine seem to fray pretty quickly and I've snapped a bunch. Switch came out with a plastic tube covering the dyneema line but that just means I can't see that it's about to snap. A sailor put me onto this coated Spectra www.ropemarine.com.au/contents/en-us/d53.html.
It's designed for similar wet salty sunny conditions and has an outer layer to reduce wear on the core. Also it only costs $1.80 per meter and rated to 970kg. I've had it out for a fly and it worked well but just after any advice from some experienced bar modifiers out there. I'm thinking of upgrading to 6mm as it almost doubles the breaking point (mainly important as I've used knots rather than a splice at either end). Is there a reason most bars use dyneema over this type of coated spectra?

snalberski
WA, 645 posts
8 Oct 2019 7:39PM
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The version 4 Switch bar has the exact same chicken loop assembly as the Ikon bar that I have which I did a modification to in the fashion you describe.... basically because I hated the pu covering on the main line.
The problem you will have with using 6mm chord of any sort is that it wont fit in the rotor head groove under the black plastic rotor head cover.... 3mm is the correct size. The other problem may be its ability to splice.
To get a 6mm main/depower line I used 2m (give or take) of 3mm dyneema.....
I made a loop with a locking splice of the correct size in the middle.....
then passed the tail of the splice through the entire length of the 3mm dyneema.
You end up with a 1m length of 6mm dyneema with a 3mm loop at one end. The loop will fit around the rotor head retaining lugs and in the groove. The 6mm dyneema then passes through the cleat, around the splitter bracket, and back through the cleat. Put that through the handle or knob you intend to use and tie a knot. Line trimming is easy by adjustment of the knot at that point.
Waxing the mainline stops fraying entirely... or at least stops broken fibers from fuzzing.

LucienSanchez
23 posts
8 Oct 2019 8:28PM
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Select to expand quote
Is there a reason most bars use dyneema over this type of coated spectra?


Yep.

That's after about 8 sessions. Spectra core with a polyester cover.

How sharp are the edges of the hole in the bar that the rope goes through? I remember using a file on an old naish bar that chewed through depower ropes & it seemed to help.

I tried the double braid thinking it might be easier to pull out of the liquid force cleat as it doesn't squash as flat as the single braid but I was wrong, still a PITA.

Might try this next www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-X-10M-Silver-Dyneema-sk75-Fiber-Synthetic-Winch-marine-anchor-rope-3500kg/273118629780?epid=24032254551&hash=item3f97238f94:g:uwMAAOSwal5YLk0u

acitta
VIC, 149 posts
Wednesday , 9 Oct 2019 1:32PM
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Select to expand quote
snalberski said..
The problem you will have with using 6mm chord of any sort is that it wont fit in the rotor head groove under the black plastic rotor head cover.... 3mm is the correct size. The other problem may be its ability to splice.

Yeah for this I pulled the core out through the sheath and wrapped that around the lugs. That was with the 5mm rope though so the core is probably around 3mm (but as it's a loose weave it is easy to flatten around the lugs, 6mm might be a bit tight though. Sounds like waxing dyneema is the way to go though. What wax did you use and how often do you wax it? I probably need to start doing this on all my lines.



Select to expand quote
LucienSanchez said..

Is there a reason most bars use dyneema over this type of coated spectra?



Yep.


haha a photo says a thousand words. Yeah I noticed a bit of fuzz starting to form on my rope after its third session. I rock climb with a similar polyester sheathed rope and it fuzzed up a little but then stopped getting worse after a while. I was hoping this would be similar. There aren't any sharp edges on the switch bar but that Dyneema looks like a good price and more suitable. Thanks for the photo!

snalberski
WA, 645 posts
Wednesday , 9 Oct 2019 11:46AM
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Any wax really should be ok. I use modelling wax in my job and I used that only because it was handy. Any candle wax or board wax should work. Its worth checking the plastic insert in the center of your bar to make sure that is functioning properly.... once worn they can get funny edged on them which will speed up mainline wear. Plastic inserts are a useless and retro grade addition based on anybodies guess. Switchs previous smooth centre (very similar to Ozones) was heaps better. All I can see pu covered mainlines and plastic bar centers doing is cause
annoying and dangerous binding when fishpoling or cranking hard.

Mark50
NSW, 138 posts
Friday , 11 Oct 2019 11:30AM
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Check the source of your "Dynema" - plenty of Chinese and other products that call themselves Dynema (or the seller says its Dynema), but are not and are much lower quality and wear quite quickly compared to the genuine article. My understanding is that the genuine product is only made in the Netherlands and the US.

Amongst other uses, I use it on my Dynabars and the genuine stuff lasts at least a year before it starts to look a little worn, but when I got caught with non genuine stuff, it barely lasted a couple of months. You get what you pay for I guess...



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