Cisco's engine repaint thread

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andy59
andy59
QLD
1156 posts
QLD, 1156 posts
22 Sep 2015 4:45pm
I am completly disgusted at the state of my engine with flaking paint and rust everywhere. I have decided something has to be done. I remember reading Cisco's thread on repainting and generally tidying up his engine and have thiought when the time comes that's what I will do but now i cant seem to find it.
Is it still on here?
HG02
HG02
VIC
5814 posts
VIC, 5814 posts
22 Sep 2015 5:15pm
andy59 said..
I am completly disgusted at the state of my engine with flaking paint and rust everywhere. I have decided something has to be done. I remember reading Cisco's thread on repainting and generally tidying up his engine and have thiought when the time comes that's what I will do but now i cant seem to find it.
Is it still on here?


a good Degreaser for a start Andy (then lick it clean mate Ha ha) no not really I used delicious red wattle epoxy paint and buy some masking tape and your good to go don't forget the news paper to keep any over spray off

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Wattyl-Killrust-Aerosol-Paint-Epoxy-Gloss-Enamel-Delicious-Red-300g.aspx?pid=125295#Recommendations
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
22 Sep 2015 11:42pm

I used the Killrust system. Go to your local Home Hardware shop and buy the Killrust system.

It is a three product process that is dependant on how good your preparation is as with all paint systems.

You need to really well degrease the engine and wire brush it to remove flaky paint, rust flakes and whatever.

Follow this with one or two detergent washes and let it dry off a day or two to result in a fine film of rust on the cast iron.

Stick to the product instructions for the Rust Eeter and the primer over that. For the Rust Eeter use cheap brushes because the only thing that might clean them up is their recommended product. Turps or thinners will not clean them.

After the Rust Eeter and primer it is flexible what you use but I would not go with a two pack. An oil based enamel will be fine. I used a non Yanmar colour hammertone gold which suits my concept of looking sexy with fire engine red trim.













The sequence of the pics is a bit back to front. The black is what you get after application of Rust Eeter and the dull red on the front engine casings (alloy) is International PA 10 which is the best I know for alloy priming.

You should notice in all but the first pic the engine is stripped of all hoses, belts etc,etc. To make a proper job of it that is what you need to do. Don't even think about spray cans of paint. That is the worst thing you could do.

Let me assure you that the result is worth the effort and that if you decide to proceed, you are forgiven if we do not hear from you for the next month.

I hope your efforts result with a smooth diesel like this one.

Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7756 posts
NSW, 7756 posts
23 Sep 2015 8:07am
Excellent access on that engine Cisco.
andy59
andy59
QLD
1156 posts
QLD, 1156 posts
23 Sep 2015 10:23am
Awesome Cisco
I have copied it to my hard drive. Then I will have to set aside a couple of weeks where I can remove and replace all the hoses etc.
Thanks again
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
23 Sep 2015 1:59pm
Ramona said..
Excellent access on that engine Cisco.


Except on the stbd (exhaust) side. There is not enough space between the stud ends holding the exhaust manifold on and the engine room bulkhead to slide the manifold off. Changing to bolts will not work either.

It is either de-mount the engine and slide it forwards and/or sideways or chop into the woodwork. If I had to remove the cylinder head I think I would have to pull the engine into the cabin so I will leave the woodwork alone.
slammin
slammin
QLD
998 posts
QLD, 998 posts
24 Sep 2015 6:05am
Kind of off topic but fwiw i used the killrust system and followed it to a t on my deck support brackets and it worked fine everywhere except for the welds. This time I'll try a ferro converter and see.
Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7756 posts
NSW, 7756 posts
24 Sep 2015 8:54am
cisco said..

Ramona said..
Excellent access on that engine Cisco.



Except on the stbd (exhaust) side. There is not enough space between the stud ends holding the exhaust manifold on and the engine room bulkhead to slide the manifold off. Changing to bolts will not work either.

It is either de-mount the engine and slide it forwards and/or sideways or chop into the woodwork. If I had to remove the cylinder head I think I would have to pull the engine into the cabin so I will leave the woodwork alone.


It's only a toy engine anyway, easy to shift out of the way. Good access to the regular maintenance stuff is the main thing. I have to use braille to change my oil filter!
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
24 Sep 2015 8:59am
I think the Killrust system is good for engines as they are cast iron. I seem to recall some one saying that it does not last very long on steel work. It would be a damned expensive way to do a whole steel yacht.

One product that everyone I have asked who has used it and all say is really good is POR 15.

http://www.ppcco.com.au/prevention.htm
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
24 Sep 2015 9:15am
Ramona said..

It's only a toy engine anyway, easy to shift out of the way. Good access to the regular maintenance stuff is the main thing. I have to use braille to change my oil filter!


braille!!

Yes it is a bit of a toy. It is only 660 cc so little more than a motor bike engine. There are thousands of them around still in boats and this one pushes my yacht along at 5.5 kts quite easily so I reckon I will stick with it even if it will need a major rebuild in the future subject to cost.

If cost dictated a replacement engine I am thinking a Yanmar 3GM30 HE or maybe a marinised 3 cyl Kubota which has the exhaust on the other side.

I imagine your Currawong has a deep bilge and the engine is set well down in it. That will certainly restrict access.
Trek
Trek
NSW
1213 posts
NSW, 1213 posts
27 Sep 2015 8:40am

Engine looks great. I would love to know if there's a trick to doing the underside. My old Volvo 2003 is pretty flaky under there and needs something done.


cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
27 Sep 2015 10:23am
Trek said..

Engine looks great. I would love to know if there's a trick to doing the underside. My old Volvo 2003 is pretty flaky under there and needs something done.




My Yanmar has an alloy sump plate so the engine block forms the sump which makes life a little easier.

If your sump is steel and getting flaky, you really do need to do something. If it rusted out it would be disastrous.

I want to take my sump plate off at some stage and fit a drain point at the rear of it so I can drain ALL of the oil instead of this ridiculous idea of poking a tube down the dip stick hole and pumping it out.

Not game to do it just yet.
samsturdy
samsturdy
NSW
1659 posts
NSW, 1659 posts
27 Sep 2015 11:42am


Give to HG Cisco. He's good for anything mechanical. Wish he lived closer to me.
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