Does anybody know what I would be up for (dollar wise) if I was required to replace the rigging of a potential purchase? It is on a 40' cat.

It currently looks ok, but is 10 years old so I need to allow for it some time down the track -and probably sooner rather then later.

cheers

MB, what are your thoughts on DIY with Sta-lok terminals?

Ch 8 (p. 124) of This Old Boat by Don Casey, which gives instructions on how to do your own rigging:

"Swages fail because the machine that installed them was inadequate or the operator did not use it correctly.
They fail because compressing the metal weakens it. They fail because the die marks concentrate the stresses.
They fail because water runs down the write into the fitting and the resulting rust expands inside the fitting.
They fail because the same water freezes and expands. They fail because any unfair lead or pull tends to
pry open the squeezed barrel. They fail."
...
"Every swaged terminal I have ever owned eventually had to be replaced, whereas not a single cone-type
swageless terminal of the scores I have been to sea with has ever been replaced or even given me a moment's
concern. You can see where my loyalty lies."

The more you can do yourself the cheaper it will be. I have just replaced all my standing rigging including chain plates and spreaders for $3k. The rig on a 40' cat will be a bit more complex than what I have but if you can do some of the work, it definitely pays off.

fishmonkey said..
MB, what are your thoughts on DIY with Sta-lok terminals?

They are LLoyds approved but I suppose they need to be approved by your insurance company. Insurance companies seem to want certificates for everything and don't accept DIY work even if you are qualified to do it. Maybe a surveyor could certify your rig.

A Sta-lok terminal will cost about $80 while the same size terminal swaged will cost about $40.

If you are going to use Sta-lok you really need to have a proper work bench with vise and follow the instructions carefully. Sta-lok is not really a "Do it on the wharf job."

Look Sta-lok up on Youtube.

HG02 said..

Jolene said..
The more you can do yourself the cheaper it will be. I have just replaced all my standing rigging including chain plates and spreaders for $3k. The rig on a 40' cat will be a bit more complex than what I have but if you can do some of the work, it definitely pays off.

Did you use sta lok Jolene? and Korean wire?
also been looking at the Blue wave swagless

I used Ronstan fittings and wire. Type 1 turnbuckles, swage eyes and studs. I pulled the rig down and had a rigging company make new shrouds to the samples I supplied. I looked at sta-lok but could see no real benefit in my particular case using them, besides I doubt I will still have the boat when the rig needs to be replaced next time..
I think the Sta-lok are Superior to swages. Allot of swage failures come from poor alignment of shrouds, skimping on toggles, banana swages, and corrosion. Sta-lok aren't immune to these problems but swage fittings are more sensitive to them.

Yeah, me too. I'm thinking a good plan though would be to start with pulling the chainplates, create drawings of them,
and order new ones from China fabricated in titanium from:

www.alliedtitanium.com/

Thank for letting us know about Blue Wave. A quick look at their catalogue and I see I can't use them,
as they don't seem to have much in the way of fittings (or wire) in 9mm size.

Let's see if we can spot the titanium chainplate (image scan from Practical Sailor Dec 2011 issue):

Madmouse said..
I would have thought on a cat these days you would go with syntheric. Is that a possibility?

I don't know. It's currently sporting SS though.

Some of the prices stated above are not as bad as I thought (still up there though). The boat is, lets call it a 'project boat'. Just trying to line the ducks up first.

Yeah you are right, thanks, seems better to buy stainless steel plate. I wonder if
it may be better to use AL6XN stainless steel, as suggested by a surveyor in the
Practical Sailor Mar 2012 Mailport referring to the Dec 2011 article on using titanium:

...
"The idea the author would go through the bother of sourcing titanium in China seems impractical to say the least. At the risk of being politically incorrect,
I would underscore that quality assurance in terms of alloy grade would be virtually nonexistent."
...
"While titanium is an intriguing metal, one has to be very careful in selecting the application. Although titanium itself is extremely noble and resistant to
corrosion, it must be matched to the fasteners used. If not, then the mass of titanium will tend to induce pitting corrosion in the common stainless fasteners
he may have reused.

The author would have done far better to have his chainplates fabricated in AL6XN stainless. The job would’ve been less expensive, virtually immune to the
original corrosion issues, immensely strong, and would not set up a whole host of new potential corrosion issues. Non-insignificantly, he would’ve been giving
his business to a domestic steel mill and machine shop.

Jonathan Klopman
Marine Surveyor, NAMS-CMS
Marblehead, Mass."

I tried searching for a supplier, I know nothing about them, but they say they
have AL6XN stainless steel and various grades of titanium:

www.revolutionmaterials.com.au/metals.php

someday said..
Yeah, me too. I'm thinking a good plan though would be to start with pulling the chainplates, create drawings of them,
and order new ones from China fabricated in titanium from:

www.alliedtitanium.com/

Thank for letting us know about Blue Wave. A quick look at their catalogue and I see I can't use them,
as they don't seem to have much in the way of fittings (or wire) in 9mm size.

Let's see if we can spot the titanium chainplate (image scan from Practical Sailor Dec 2011 issue):

Maaate!!! Getting new chain plates drawn up and manufactured in titanium is going a bit overboard.

Those chain plates look like they are 30 years old. Why not use your old plates as drilling templates for new stainless plates??

Enjoy finding that