Forums > Stand Up Paddle General

I Fall Down

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Created by supthecreek Two weeks ago, 30 Mar 2021
supthecreek
2182 posts
30 Mar 2021 8:04PM
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Because Haddock said:
"I'm particularly delighted by the number of falls included in this one. I was beginning to suspect you were some sort of robot mongoose sent from the future to destroy us all. It appears that you might just be human after all.......

Too funny!
This one's for you Haddock!

It only took about 10 minutes to find this batch

supsean
132 posts
30 Mar 2021 9:56PM
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Great edit and music. You seem to be quite good at falling. And thats a compliment!

anchorpoint
158 posts
30 Mar 2021 10:37PM
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There is some satisfaction in seing a fellow SUPer eating it....Human nature i guess... Agree with Supsean...you perfected the technique of falling to a new level ! Well done Rick!

FRP
417 posts
31 Mar 2021 2:35AM
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Creek I was smiling and groaning at the same time watching your video! We take our lumps and keep going back. It reminds me why I wear an impact vest and helmet.

Years ago you posted "Surfing is Falling". It is one of my favourite posts. True poetry. I can't seem to find the post.....could you post it again or a link?

Cheers

Bob

Haddock
10 posts
31 Mar 2021 3:01AM
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Rick - you are a legend!

It's because of you and your videos and the good folk on this forum that I just pressed the button on a 8'7 Placid. Looking forward to adding to this compendium of wipeouts!!!

Daneli Returns
NSW, 139 posts
31 Mar 2021 9:01AM
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Ow. That last one hurts

Thanks STC

Brenno
QLD, 783 posts
31 Mar 2021 8:09AM
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Haha Rick, nice one!
When I first started this sup silliness, which has since evolved into a full blown obsession, I had a fair bit of go pro footage. Not being that tech savvy I gave it to my boy to edit. He took great joy in stitching all my falls together and adding the Benny Hill theme song. Not sure what he thought was funnier, the video or the look on my face!

rodriguez
VIC, 880 posts
31 Mar 2021 11:21AM
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Rick I love the shore break smack down!

Emeboy
NSW, 322 posts
31 Mar 2021 1:14PM
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OOoooo yeah the shore dump slap was a goodie.... Funny how the soloshot tracks perfectly when you take a dive!!

oneback
NSW, 12 posts
31 Mar 2021 1:26PM
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never turn your back on the shore break

Bighugg
NT, 432 posts
31 Mar 2021 8:00PM
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Select to expand quote
Brenno said..
Haha Rick, nice one!
When I first started this sup silliness, which has since evolved into a full blown obsession, I had a fair bit of go pro footage. Not being that tech savvy I gave it to my boy to edit. He took great joy in stitching all my falls together and adding the Benny Hill theme song. Not sure what he thought was funnier, the video or the look on my face!


Ok Brenno, fess up and post thee son's Benny Hill expose

Bighugg
NT, 432 posts
31 Mar 2021 8:09PM
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STC... Your shared reality and humble humanity has been inspirational in my Sup growth and with of a numerous folks we've met on our travels. Many thanks

supthecreek
2182 posts
1 Apr 2021 2:32AM
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Glad the Breezy community is enjoying a little light hearted March Madness!
I appreciate all the awesome comments, that make it so enjoyable to be a part of our particular obsession

supthecreek
2182 posts
1 Apr 2021 2:57AM
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Select to expand quote
FRP said..
Creek I was smiling and groaning at the same time watching your video! We take our lumps and keep going back. It reminds me why I wear an impact vest and helmet.

Years ago you posted "Surfing is Falling". It is one of my favourite posts. True poetry. I can't seem to find the post.....could you post it again or a link?

Cheers

Bob


Thanks bob, I had forgotten about that post!
(But, I frequently discuss "Surfing is falling" with new surfers, to help them understand where our power and speed come from.)
It was on page 4 of a "Long vs Short" discussion on the Zone.... in 2012!

scroll down page to find my comments:
www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,15589.45.html

FRP
417 posts
1 Apr 2021 4:18AM
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Thanks Creek

i couldn't see the quote that I was looking for on your link. I searched my notes however and found this quote which I think are your words. Correct me if I am wrong. It is perhaps my most favourite description of surfing! Surfing is falling (as in gravity) .... we are not pushed by waves..... we fall. (except see below)" Supthecreek
As the wave steepens, we paddle to reach a speed that helps us get to the right place on a building wave.
When we "catch" the wave, we have simply gotten to a steep enough part of the wave, with enough paddling speed.... then we feel the "release" and we fall towards the bottom of the wave.If we keep going straight towards shore, the wave will either run us down, or the whitewater will "push" us slowly towards shore. Once a wave "breaks".... the stationary water is given motion, as the energy carries it towards shore.
Ultimately, what we want to do is take the speed we get from our initial "fall" and return to the "top", so we can "fall" again.To do this, we use our speed achieved through falling, and use it to make a bottom turn.The bottom turn heads us up back to the top.If we don't make a "top" turn... we simply kickout.The top turn redirects us, so we can fall again and pick up speed.
Even when we go "straight" across a wave face.... we are falling"trimming" is simply the act of falling sideways down the wave, at the same speed the water is rushing up the face.Until a wave has broken.... the water does NOT move. Watch a seagull or surfer sit in the water as a wave passes under them..... the "wave" goes by them towards shore... but the water does not move.
Take a long rope and lay it straight out on the ground.... go to one end, grab the end of the rope and shake the rope in big up and down motions.The rope never moves, but a "wave" runs down the length of rope, with high and low spots.The energy moves.... not the rope. Same with waves.
SO.... as the wave moves towards shore, the water is rushing up the "face" of the wave, as the energy moves through the water.When you are surfing "straight" across a wave face, there is a lot going on.let's say you are going "right" and the shore is a straight beach to your left....
You are going "straight"in the direction of your boardYou are sliding (falling) down the face sideways to your leftYou are getting carried up the face, from the "still" water that the wave is passing through... giving the water an "apparent" speed... at a speed that matches your falland the whole mess is moving ever closer to shore data:image/gif;base64,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
recap: you are going, straight, down, up and sideways toward shore.... all at the same time.Very sensual! It is the magic that is surfing.
The fun of surfing is deciding what to do with all that available energy.
once you leave the "trim" plane, things get interesting.A turn is simply digging the right rail into the water moving up the face, and stopping your sideways slide toward the beach..... you simply "slow down" and go "up" to the topOnce at the top, you disengage your right rail, and angle the bottom of the board flat (relative to the wave face) and release from the stationary water so you can fall back down
Confused yet? data:image/gif;base64,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
Turning is simply "engaging" a rail, by digging into the water, and allowing the board to "grab" or "release" the stationary water.
A "carving" turn carries more speed forward than a weak turn.To "carve", you must leave the comfort of balanceYou must commit your body past the rail of the board.Done correctly... your feet will transfer your weight on the board to "tilt" the board to match your new body angle (relative to water surface)
Centrifugal force keeps your weight pressing down on the board and allows you to "balance" as the board carves a turn, that brings it back under you.If you do not commit the rail, as much as you commit your body.... you will simple fall over.Like riding a bike too slowly as you turn..... your body and the bike lean with matching angle, at sufficient speed and magically, you don't fall over..... you turn and bing the bike back under your body. Voila'...
Surfing is simply, a series of falls and turns..... how you do them becomes your style."Pumping" is just linking small "falls" and "climbs" in a row to generate speed..... like pumping a skateboard across a flat parking lot.
The harder you carve.... the more "G" force you generate to carry into your next move.
A cutback, is simply using your speed to turn from a flatter part of the wave, back to the steeper part of the wave.
Fall down.... go back up.... fall down again.Repeat.
add commitment....add style
ALL surfing comes from your mind.....the body simply does what it is told.
Now.... go find your style...... and be ballsy........ no surfer ever got good by being timid.

finsup
28 posts
1 Apr 2021 4:41AM
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Ha ha yes, surfing is falling alright. The other day we were laughing about how much we all fall off all tbe time.... but not even when on waves! (living where there is essentially no surf means you go out in the crappest of onshore washing machine conditions, and love it!!!)...

Interesting words STC re the long v short post.
(Those Chris Griffiths clips are great too)

supthecreek
2182 posts
1 Apr 2021 9:50AM
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FRP said:
"I couldn't see the quote that I was looking for on your link. I searched my notes however and found this quote which I think are your words. Correct me if I am wrong."

You are not wrong.
That has been my explanation of surfing for as long as I can remember.
It is my way of explaining why surfing is so addicting... so sensual.

FRP, thanks for saving that, I think that is the only time I have written it out.... I usually tell new surfers by using ropes and props.
It's pretty hard to follow in the above, copy with defunct picture links etc.
I copied it, cleaned it up with paragraphs and proper sentences so it is more readable. Thank you!

aceman8772
49 posts
1 Apr 2021 8:21PM
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I needed that. Thank you.

Seajuice
NSW, 739 posts
3 Apr 2021 9:02AM
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Haaa! Loved it. And never turn you back against the waves.



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"I Fall Down" started by supthecreek