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Oh what a feeling ..

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Created by Tardy 28 days ago, 18 May 2021
Tardy
3997 posts
18 May 2021 5:46AM
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DO you remember the feeling of a leg rope breaking ...?

I had not broken one for 4-5 years now ..so forgot the feeling ,and thoughts that go through ya head .

oh **** my new flow NO..
fark rocks ,
I'm in for a swin .
sharks .

luckily for me ,it was a good break ...i dived under a wave felt it pull then nothing .....when i came up my board was still in the white wash
standing up like a dolphin ,it was freaky ..the wave had taken the tail to the bottom .and it was vertical .luck me i swam like hell and saved it before it hit the rocks with metres to spare ..

what goes through your head when you loose ya board ..

LeeD
2799 posts
18 May 2021 6:14AM
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Had maybe 7 broken leashes surfing, never happy, maybe from fin cutting to cause a weak spot.
In surf, you just let the whitewater tunable you to shore.
At reef breaks, more swimming is involved. I once swam from almost backyards at Sunset to the deepest near shore, then out the channel well past kammies before reuniting with my favorite 8'6" x 20" semi gun at Rocky rights, and came in at Beach Park....not recommended for those shy of turbulent water. Sunset was closing out every 15 minutes or so, making the swim out the channel somewhat interesting. Lucky my board was light blue, very easy to spot.

LeeD
2799 posts
18 May 2021 6:17AM
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"TUMBLE"....darn spellcheck.
Couldn't come in at Rocky rights because it was closing out 8', and only channel was Ehukai before BIGG Pipe breaking outside.

surfinJ
555 posts
18 May 2021 1:38PM
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Some story LeeD, I know those waters. Coming in at the beachpark was a feat. Not a clear or big channel there Tardy, that chain of thoughts is about the limit. Pretty much bad possibilities. Glad it turned out well.

NTAA
NSW, 46 posts
18 May 2021 4:12PM
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LeeD said..
Had maybe 7 broken leashes surfing, never happy, maybe from fin cutting to cause a weak spot.
In surf, you just let the whitewater tunable you to shore.
At reef breaks, more swimming is involved. I once swam from almost backyards at Sunset to the deepest near shore, then out the channel well past kammies before reuniting with my favorite 8'6" x 20" semi gun at Rocky rights, and came in at Beach Park....not recommended for those shy of turbulent water. Sunset was closing out every 15 minutes or so, making the swim out the channel somewhat interesting. Lucky my board was light blue, very easy to spot.


Reminds me of this story.........also involved a light blue board............

www.surfline.com/surf-news/lost-surfboard-floated-hawaii-philippines/92386

mediumbilly
24 posts
18 May 2021 4:40PM
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Tardy said..
DO you remember the feeling of a leg rope breaking ...?

I had not broken one for 4-5 years now ..so forgot the feeling ,and thoughts that go through ya head .

oh **** my new flow NO..
fark rocks ,
I'm in for a swin .
sharks .

luckily for me ,it was a good break ...i dived under a wave felt it pull then nothing .....when i came up my board was still in the white wash
standing up like a dolphin ,it was freaky ..the wave had taken the tail to the bottom .and it was vertical .luck me i swam like hell and saved it before it hit the rocks with metres to spare ..

what goes through your head when you loose ya board ..


No, but i remember the feeling of my legrope tearing my handstring rpund my knee two weeks ago.

Tardy
3997 posts
18 May 2021 4:54PM
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OUCH .. I got off light then ...

Kisutch
45 posts
19 May 2021 4:29AM
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had my first snap in bigger winter surf when I went in solo before friend arrived, one other surfer on entire beach. Cleanup set, snap, board was gone in an instant ( washed up OK though), made mistake of trying to bodysurf and got pounded, barely made it through cross currents near shore, they almost pulled me into the strong rip I paddled out in. Good learning moment for me:) I didn't realize how hard it could be to swim in, don't go solo now when it's not small, got better leashes and keep separate one for bigger days.

LeeD
2799 posts
19 May 2021 4:58AM
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SurfinJ......
I was pooped. Rocky closes out over 8', so Beach Park was my last chance to make shore with an intact board.
Pipe was breaking waaay outside of Ehukai, maybe 2nd or 3rd reef, and I had no paddle power left...and a broken leash.
I was living at Log Cabins at the time and knew OTW and Logs was not survivable shorepound in the state I was in. I was tired.
Got a ride back up to Sunset by John Hill, a waiter at Turtle Bay Hilton. He was my windsurfing bud 9 years later, ran into him at Oopula gate to 'yards.

rockmagnet
QLD, 1450 posts
19 May 2021 7:08AM
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I don't need to break a leg rope to hit the rocks.

Tardy
3997 posts
19 May 2021 6:31AM
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rockmagnet said..
I don't need to break a leg rope to hit the rocks.


tell me about it


supthecreek
2214 posts
19 May 2021 5:07PM
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Tardy said..
what goes through your head when you loose ya board ..


....




bomberdave
VIC, 296 posts
20 May 2021 8:31AM
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sometimes it is just better not to know!!!

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2009 posts
21 May 2021 8:41AM
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There was a time I wished my legrope would break. I was surfing in Indo, got smashed, was being pushed towards shore (all coral reef below and on shore) and my leggie got caught on the reef. Every wave pounded and held me under. It seemed like there was a constant surge of water towards the shore. The board was tombstoning next to me. After quite a few failed attempts I finally got the leggie off my ankle...

lam
VIC, 176 posts
21 May 2021 11:56AM
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I was taught as a youngster to always strap your leggie on in exactly the same way every time. Therefore if you need to release it, you will find it easier and more natural.

Gboots
NSW, 1155 posts
21 May 2021 12:42PM
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I just don't go in big waves . Nothing bigger than 3 ft (unless there is the occasional unplanned bomb) . I am looking for longevity and sustainability . I want to be 70 and SUP surfing . On the wave all is good . Off the wave is the problem . My swimming resilience is just not good enough

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2009 posts
21 May 2021 2:57PM
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lam said..
I was taught as a youngster to always strap your leggie on in exactly the same way every time. Therefore if you need to release it, you will find it easier and more natural.


You are absolutely right, but I struggled to get to it. Back then I had it on my ankle (now I use a thigh strap). I was trying to get some air and the water felt like a fast river holding me down. (It didn't help that immediately after the trip I learned I had blood issues and was running on a very low red cell count.)



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"Oh what a feeling .." started by Tardy