I have a fickly spot question. Do spots exist which transfer you after a wave dirctly back to the takeoff zone? I am thinking of kind of a outer reef spot where during outgoing tide the water moves out of the laggon directly along the the reef line to the lineup.
No more paddle needed?
Thanks for all your input.
Yes, there's a couple of spots near me, one is a sand bar at a river mouth where the out going tide takes you back to the takeoff and the other is next to a big headland that the rip runs next to.
Look for spots enclosed in long jetties/points. Very often the water pushed inside the "bay" must escape, and create strong outgoing rips along the sides.
If the sell is somewhat at an angle with the coast, only one jetty/point/headland is sufficient, if the swell "pushes against" it.
Thanks. Do you have pics of these spots (without naming them of course):-)
Water always builds up inside any break, and must have a path to drain back out to sea.
Even if there is no obvious channel, that draining water creates a river of water flow, back out to deeper water. (rip or current)
By staring out past the break, eyes kind of unfocused, you will be able to detect even slight surface movement inside the break.
Then focus on a bit of foam, moving in that "river".... follow where it goes out to deeper water.
When you paddle out, use that waterflow to increase your speed towards the outside.
Go WITH the flow, not directly out to the takeoff.
Combine that water flow, with the wind when possible and use good timing to paddle out during a lull.
The water flow is strongest a few moments after a bigger set, so probably lessor waves to deal with for a while.
Paddle like you mean it and go with the flow!!
I always tell people:
"if you want to learn how to get out easily... follow an old surfer.
They use brains, not brawn, to get out when it's bigger"