Forums > Stand Up Paddle Street SUP

Classic Hamboard Build

Reply
Created by JoffaDan > 9 months ago, 6 Apr 2016
JoffaDan
VIC, 211 posts
21 Apr 2017 9:02PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Geronimo1111 said..
A thought came to me yesterday to put two stringers along the rails...that way I can use them for rail grabs...if I ever reach down that far!!! And, if that's not enough, I can always add another stringer down the center.

What do you think about that? JoffaDan?


Hmm not sure about that one. I would have thought adding a single stringer down the middle in line and (more importantly) under the trucks would add equal or even more strength than two on the sides, and also save on weight. Don't quote me on this as I'm not entirely sure on the physics I'm just thinking more of surfboard design. Perhaps someone with better knowledge can chime in?

I just think it's really important to save as much weight as possible simply because this board already weighs a tonne, and getting it moving especially up inclines, can be hard work. Stopping it is another story.

Just for reference I measured the thickness of my stringer and risers for you.

All together my stringer (8mm height) and wooden risers (17mm) and Original plastic risers (20mm) combine to raise the trucks to 45mm in total. And even with my wheel wells, with all my weight on one side of the board I'm still getting very slight wheel bite, but I never turn the board hard enough on a regular basis for it to worry me. From memory I think I made my wooden risers slightly shorter in height than the ones Hamboard make.

Geronimo1111
17 posts
Saturday , 22 Apr 2017 4:35PM
Thumbs Up

JD, thanks for measuring the stringer and risers. That's good to know. I'm a little confused because the Original risers look thinner than the wooden risers I have which are about 18mm...but it's hard to get a measurement while they are mounted...so I'll double check mine when I take them off to finish the deck.

The lumberyard says the baltic birch is 3/4" or 19.05mm, but it's actually 18mm or a little less when sanded...

Interesting that you are still getting a bit of wheelbite with that much rise and wheel wheels... I may need to add the stringer just to avoid wheel bite...

If I go the stringer route, that would give me 18mm + 18mm + Original risers...

Last night, I fiddled around with making a design for the wheel wells using a program called SmartDraw.


It would be interesting to know the actual dimensions (w x l) of the wheelwells that Hamboards uses. Nozza?

I tried to count the plies on their wheel wells from a picture to get an idea how deep they are...looks like at least 13 or 14 plies? Pretty deep wells it seems...

Anyway, I'm kinda hurting my head trying to figure out the wheel well situation, because I figure I pretty much have one shot to get them right...and I want them to be equal on both sides, correct angles, proper depth, location, etc....so I'm thinking about using a template out of plywood and a straight router bit...then possibly using a 45 degree chamfer bit to put an angle on the well...

(Just went back and looked through your whole build, JD...really nice job you did...not sure I have the steady hand to make wheel wells as nice as yours with a grinder!!! BTW, what type of disk did you use? A sanding flap disk or the type to grind concrete?)

But, in the meantime, I'm going to go with the advice that someone gave me a long time ago (grade school) when taking multiple choice tests....answer the easy ones first and then come back to the hard questions... So, with that, I've decided to do the burn/stain/polycrylic finish next and then come back to the wheel wells at the end...which I think will be fine, because I want the wheel wells natural and not stained... They will be the last step of the project and I can really focus on doing them right.

As far as the finish, I'm thinking about burning the wood on the bottom of the deck with a torch, then staining it with this leftover blue stain we've got from an old project...then polycrylic... stringer or rails I'm thinking darker...like a mahogany stain for a bit of contrast...

For the top of the deck, I'm thinking of a lighter color stain to keep the natural lighter color of the birch (and to allow me to put my lightning bolt graphic on) and then polycrylic...

I'll post pics of the process...Save

Geronimo1111
17 posts
Tuesday , 25 Apr 2017 5:51AM
Thumbs Up

OK, quick update on the build:

I cut out some rails to kind of match the outline of the board...lots of sanding to get the bumps out...not perfect, but moving on to stain/finish...

I now see why hamboards paints their baltic birch decks. After reading up a bunch...it looks like birch is notoriously a PITA to stain...apparently it has a tendency to look blotchy and water-based stains don't work well on them...neither do wipe/brush on stains like Minwax...People get REAL technical about staining birch talking about sealers, spray-on dyes, etc...

And to think I thought I was getting to the EASY part!!!

Well, after reading up, people recommended doing some tests on scrap pieces...


Burnt scrap on the left...unburnt on the right...




Left piece: I burned the middle section with a small propane torch and sanded w/ 120 and 220...the top portion has one coat of Minwax polycrylic clear semi-gloss brushed on. The wood really soaked it up...so it probably needs some kind of sealer before I do the deck for real.

I'm kind of liking that look best and thinking about going with it for the top of the deck. The only problem is that the nozzle of the propane torch is very small and can tend to make darker burn areas...I might get a bigger propane torch (the kind you attach to a big propane tank) to get a more even burn...

Far left of piece just has the polycrylic on bare wood...think we can rule that one out...boring!

Bottom right has blue stain over the pre-conditioned burned wood...gonna sand that down, put a clear coat on and see what it looks like...but I'm thinking no on that...

Right piece: Top has wood conditioner for oil stains first...then cherry stain on left, red mahogany stain on right...no clear coat.

Once it dries, I'm going to sand w/ 220 and put a clear coat on it...Thinking about using the red mahogany on the rails if it looks good.

Also, I found out that you can use water-based sealers over oil stains, but you have to let them dry and wipe 'em down with mineral spirits to get off excess and help the remaining stain "flash off"...

Bottom has the same blue stain on bare wood...w/ pre-conditioner... going to sand w/ 220 and seal w/ clear coat and evaluate...

This is just stuff I have laying around from previous projects...Save

Nozza
VIC, 864 posts
Tuesday , 25 Apr 2017 5:35PM
Thumbs Up

How did you know I was still out here?
The Classic

The board measures 25mm thick.




The wheel wells are 90mm x 50mm.
They are 20mm deep, angle on the side looks about 45 degrees.
The grab handle slots are 12mm deep.
The timber riser is 25mm thick.




The board weighs 13.2kg, and is a missile.
I have pretty much moved to only flats to ride it, unless there is a dip with corresponding rise to slow the other side.
I have scared myself seriously on underpasses under roads where I get faced with asking myself "Do I bale out and hope for the best, or do I try and ride it through?"
The only way I have successfully stopped it is dragging the pole, really hard.

Enjoy reading about your build progress Geronimo

Geronimo1111
17 posts
Wednesday , 26 Apr 2017 2:27AM
Thumbs Up

Thanks for the pictures and measurements, Nozza!

Those will help a lot. Good to get a visual... Thanks for the feedback on the ride, too...that thing is a BEAST!

Something to be said for plug 'n play like you've done...



Subscribe
Reply

Forums > Stand Up Paddle Street SUP


"Classic Hamboard Build" started by JoffaDan