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Lay off

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Created by Macaha 1 month ago, 23 Aug 2021
Macaha
QLD, 21587 posts
23 Aug 2021 5:28PM
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Ok time to confess. Due to a few things I had STOPPED SURFING for four months,it was always on my my mind but my mind didn't want a bah of it, very unlike me very concerning.I have been asking for two years now where are the crew? I received the following replies. Some got too old, some got injured ,but most gave up due to the crowd. Many people would say I can't believe you get to waves where I surfed,I would say never an issue we all shared, somewhere along the way I lost me spot and struggled to get those waves I once did. So I would rock up keen for a surf see the numbers, start to study and the longer I did I would just head home. Then I simply gave up like the other guys I heard about.

So two weeks ago I started you journey back and enjoyed being back in the water but man so rusty. I will get back to where I was soon.


Question how long a break and how long did you get your wheels back?

Yeah **** topic but there hasn't been any new topics in this place which was once a great place, so second question, WHAT THE **** happened to everybody?

Tassiedevel
TAS, 2215 posts
23 Aug 2021 8:24PM
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Good to hear you are back out

Just been through a similar thing - no crowds for me though , I normally surf every morning before work - when there is any sort of swell .Just lost the motivation there for a few months - maybe just too much going on , struggling for waves due to no fitness( too many beers on the weekends ) ,****ty weather( been a real wet winter down here ) - or all the above .

For me had a new board to try out that has been sitting in the shed 3 months -then one good session , one good wave bought back the feeling . Pretty ell addicted again

Fitness is still an issue - maybe need to get off the alcohol ( not going to happen ). Completely ****ed after a good surf and definitely not surfing like Mick Fanning or even David Parkes ( on kneeboard these days )but at this age who cares .

GPA
WA, 2453 posts
23 Aug 2021 6:40PM
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Hey Macaha - if you think about it, you've done very well to get this far. I'm a couple of years behind you at 55yo and this year marks 40yrs surfing for me - but this winter has been very average for us weekend warriors in metro Perth, so when it comes good the crowds are insane - especially if the sun is out.

I had 10 months off after I broke my back when I was 33yo... took me a long while to get back as I was so scared of getting dumped and undoing all my rehab... Then another 6 months off after an ankle recon about 15yrs ago, then 2 years ago 6 months off after a full shoulder recon... each time it gets that bit harder to get back into it. On each occasion I started lap swimming to get back strength and fitness - it definitely helped.

I still check the forecast every weekend and if there is half a chance I'll go down for a look - but if its a bit sh!t or crowded, I'm more likely to go back home and get on my bike, or swim some laps in the afternoon. I am over sitting there for 2hrs to chance a couple of good waves in amongst the crowds and close-outs. Trouble is, when it is on, I am knackered after about 90min due to lack of time in the water.

ralap
WA, 19 posts
23 Aug 2021 7:39PM
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The amount of onshore surfs I've had the last 2 years is insane. All due to crowds.But it's definitely kept the fitness up,and funnily, kind of enjoying it.
Still get the odd session with no good ones,but I get that sometimes when it's really good.
Then suddenly a few days pop up with no one around...and you're on the pulse...like 2 days last week,and today.
Don't get me wrong, at 50 I'm feeling the squeeze, and have enough beer in the stream to replace the blood,but if you just keep going for a wobble, when it looks half cooked,you end up getting good at it.
Keeps you sane.

ralap
WA, 19 posts
23 Aug 2021 8:08PM
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Once had 4 years without surfing, although kited.
Took 2 surfs to get the mojo back...
1st surf....make the wave.
2nd surf.....do a turn and there's the bonus point

Souwester
WA, 1208 posts
23 Aug 2021 9:52PM
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Gotta go as much as you can, I have surfed some horrible stuff this year as a result of time with young family and work going bonkers, noticed on the better days I have had I am tuned in and make a meal of it.

MichaelR
NSW, 816 posts
24 Aug 2021 11:00AM
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Hey Mac, a lot of us are still here, but not saying much

I've been hot and cold surfing this last year or so. Back issues, and nerve pain etc keeping me from wanting to surf. However the lack of civility in the water is the main thing that keeps me from heading out into a crowd. On the Northern Beaches, there are a few spots where the crew are great, however in my experience there are a lot more breaks where the crew are just selfish, self entitled newbies to the sport and haven't really understood what it's really about. They're more worried about getting every wave they can and not caring about anyone else in the water. In the last 8 weeks of of our current lockdown, our beaches have been insanely crowded. At the moment, the beaches are busier on the weekends than a non-Covid summer Sunday ever was! I've only surfed a few weekday mornings, and usually only when the weather is a bit cold, or overcast keeping the crowds down. On weekends I don't bother. I don't need the aggravation.

Which means, in turn, that I'm less fit and less able to surf well when I do get in the water. That in turn makes me less likely to want to get in the water, and so it goes. A vicious cycle of talking myself out of going in, rather than being keen to get wet regardless. Hopefully I'll get the wheels back in motion soon, I think I just need a road trip to get up the coast and away from the city to help that along.

bazz61
QLD, 3535 posts
24 Aug 2021 12:35PM
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the crowds are a thing , even here now the beach breaks are crowded , i reckon pups back yard is the best place for mals , not A thats packed but so many beaches headlands to pick from and relatively uncrowded , iv'e dropped off a bit because its not consistent enough and bad banks here and parking is hard to find , , NSW will be back on its feet soon , quicker than any other state , i got into swimming to stay fit for surfing , now that' s taken over as my main fitness pass time ,

mpg56
NSW, 14 posts
24 Aug 2021 1:03PM
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Yes had a bit of a layoff this year due to a few factors. Have struggled a bit with the pop up and even damaged a couple of toes on the left foot getting up just by dragging the foot. So i needed time to work on that. Crowds are a killer on weekends here (northern beaches) with no organised sport being played everyone's surfing. Old age has crept up so its easier to lose confidence. Old rib injury hurts if i surf 2 days in a row. All these things contribute to getting back to the level of enjoyment needed. But i have been doing heaps of swimming, stretching, trying to work on the bit of core strength i have. The benefits of swimming are good for the lungs, arms , shoulders etc. Plus i think the colder water helps with arthritis. I intend to keep getting the board out and persevering.

bigmc
NSW, 221 posts
24 Aug 2021 3:26PM
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I haven't surfed for a couple of months. Paddled SUP on the river and bay. Old age has crept up. Toe issues and then fell off board in shallow water on head. Neck still not quite right 3 months on. When I see the crowds I am put off as well. Most of my surf mates have stopped due to health or injuries. I keep telling myself I will do 50 push ups and 20 pull ups and 20 pop ups every day. Haven't done one yet. There might be a protected wave here tomorrow. Hope popping up doesn't pop something it shouldn't if I can still do it that is. Hopefully dawn paddle out finger crossed.

surfanimal
NSW, 1617 posts
24 Aug 2021 5:02PM
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Great post Mac. Seems that there are common themes in the replies; age, injuries and crowds. I tick all 3 boxes unfortunately.

While I haven't had a break from the ocean per-say, I have really questioned the merits of surfing during Covid, what positivity I'm getting out of it and why I've based every important decision over the past 35 years of my life (I'm 50 so it's over 3/4 of it) around surfing (including marriage / career and real estate) when I've reached a point that it's just not enjoyable anymore. Ironic given I've now got more time to enjoy it than ever before.

The general attitude of the younger generation is appalling. Surfing in 2021 is selfish and egotistical. There is no soul to it with nearly every session becoming a battle to simply ride a wave with little chatter and certainly zero respect for old timers from both the hottie and hipster crowds. Don't get me wrong, there are always groups but they are tight and IMO at times unwelcoming but has it actually changed or is it that we are wiser and see it clearer now ?

I can't give the game away though, It's just not in me so it's a case of staying ahead of the curve.

Surfers are using 1% of the ocean, cramming in and creating the **** storm we now have but what about the other 99% of the ocean ?

While there's generally a board in my car for those special days where the 2 foot hero's are afraid to participate, I'm finding joy in surfing less crowded spots on my SUP's and recently took up the challenges of Foiling unbroken swells and Winging in the wind which has provided an invigorating new world where I'm looking for people to share the big blue with.

I understand many surfers can be narrow minded when it comes to celebrating other art forms but why can't we all just celebrate wave riding without the critiquing ?

..don't give away the love Mac, maybe consider upgrading the challenge to one that better serves your body and soul now my friend.

pete53
NSW, 224 posts
24 Aug 2021 5:46PM
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Lock downs and some building projects have kept me out of surf for several months. (Got a new board in April that hasn't been wet) but fully understand the issues.
Crowds.....Even outside lock down I've stopped travelling to popular more spots for surf trips. (Arra, crescent etc)Gold coast based o/s travel mate does get visits any more. Regular south coast spot definitely more crowded each year especially Warmer months but I'll surf lesser quality spots/banks earlier ( first couple of hours light) to avoid crowd
Injuries ....Had to take up SUP to avoid shoulder replacement otherwise regular stretching and drugs as necessary.
Age.....try to ignore it but definitely conscious of surf size in less then ideal conditions , try n stay a bit fit, cut down alcohol without much success

beachandbush
NSW, 377 posts
24 Aug 2021 7:22PM
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This should be called the recovery ward post.

Had my hernia op at the end of July that has kept me pretty quiet surf wise for months. Follow up post op 7th September and I've been doing as the doctor said so I don't have complications.

Here's a bit of humour post op.
Travelled 200km to the hospital and post op got told to go home. They then realised I didn't live locally but we had travelled up and booked 2 nights accommodation cause I didn't think I could travel home.
Anyway got back to the hotel and the first challenge was getting into bed. It's just about impossible to lift up your legs. Spent most of the night in a chair.
Anyway after I was able to check the damage realised I had a black dick and balls and a rather nice Brazillian. My missus complained that my dick wasn't bigger now that it was black. Liked the Brazillian look though. It hurts to laugh.

Looking forward to some spring Stoke although I'm still sore through the entry cuts.

My local break is 2.8k from my suburb/LGA boundary but 8.9 k from my house . So technically I'm not permitted to travel there under covid rules. If the covid police catch me I'll just show them my dick.



Tassiedevel
TAS, 2215 posts
24 Aug 2021 8:02PM
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Select to expand quote
beachandbush said..
This should be called the recovery ward
Anyway after I was able to check the damage realised I had a black dick and balls and a rather nice Brazillian. My missus complained that my dick wasn't bigger now that it was black. Liked the Brazillian look though. It hurts to laugh.







Ctngoodvibes
WA, 1368 posts
26 Aug 2021 9:03AM
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Good topic. Def gets harder to be motivated when you get older especially with injuries. I view surfing as just a way to enjoy the ocean and time with my kids now and that's kinda nice

Don't have that stressed feeling when it's crankin and can't go anymore , don't miss that

riding bigger boards helps to keep Stoke as well

surfbroker
NSW, 1466 posts
27 Aug 2021 6:10AM
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Good topic Mac..
Just read all the posts and identify with nearly all of you.
I'm at the twilight of my surfing after 60+ years on a board but still "froth" after every reasonable wave ( good waves like the younger days rare) Can't think of a SUP.
I've had health issues the past 3 years which have stopped me surfing albeit mental stoppages really..too tired..too cold..wrong wind..crowded.
Ultimatly it's been a matter of get into the garage, load the board, make sure I have everything (especially wettie} and just GO..after 15 mins of stretch/pop ups...Ah that f**n pop up..

A couple of weeks ago after paddling around my local a sneaker came through and i went..Well fmd the wave of the day just lined up and I was 55 again (you kids) and it just peeled off for ages..car park congratulations and strutted home.
The key is fitness and keep at it.
Oh and re hernias..stay out of the surf 4 weeks min..and the black dong & sack standard issue..

rune
WA, 193 posts
27 Aug 2021 8:58AM
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I thought it was just me! I am in my mid sixties, retired and getting age pension. I live within 4 minutes drive of one of my favourite breaks yet getting my A.. into gear is a struggle.
As I said to one guy, the last surf I had, "I surfed like I have never surfed before". He took it as a positive statement, no it was as if I have never surfed before.

For me the key is getting out in the water and just go. Any other exercise I do is not surfing. So I do need to get out there.
It's not as if I will magically get fitter, lighter or younger (or get a bigger dick, irrelevant I know, but you can always dream).

bigmc
NSW, 221 posts
28 Aug 2021 12:03AM
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Similar to you Surfbroker. Issues as per my earlier post. But then like you I was out on a reef a few months ago. Infrequent sets were around shoulder / head high. Suddenly I was sitting there by myself and this wall loomed up about head and a half. Thought I was too far inside but no. Turned and a couple of stokes and I was on my way. So even tho us oldies have these "issues" there is still a lot of fun to be had. Don't stop.

GPA
WA, 2453 posts
28 Aug 2021 11:54AM
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Well, despite not being overly enthusiastic about the big, lumpy, shifty, rippy conditions I went out as the conditions are likely to be worse tomorrow. For the most part it was a very poor session... then I scored one big right hander that took me most of the way in (and I paid for it on the paddle out). Then 20min later I got a massive right that held up and I flew across the face with a massive smile on my dial - rode it all the way in, called it a day and said to myself - that's why we go out. It just takes one wave to change the session and make you look forward to the next time.

Macaha
QLD, 21587 posts
28 Aug 2021 3:11PM
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Select to expand quote
GPA said..
Well, despite not being overly enthusiastic about the big, lumpy, shifty, rippy conditions I went out as the conditions are likely to be worse tomorrow. For the most part it was a very poor session... then I scored one big right hander that took me most of the way in (and I paid for it on the paddle out). Then 20min later I got a massive right that held up and I flew across the face with a massive smile on my dial - rode it all the way in, called it a day and said to myself - that's why we go out. It just takes one wave to change the session and make you look forward to the next time.


You nailed it only takes that one nice one, enjoy the celebration beer

Macaha
QLD, 21587 posts
28 Aug 2021 3:12PM
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Froth level high today




kevinwd1
QLD, 123 posts
28 Aug 2021 5:03PM
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I gave up for over 10 years . I started surfing in my late teens and continued into my early thirties .Once we had kids it just got to hard to find the time especially since I live in Brisbane.I got my salt water fix from windsurfing and then kiteboarding which I could do in Brisbane.
When the kids got older I decided to get a longboard for them to use as a stand up paddle board/surfboard and I got back it surfing
After posting on here for some board advice I got a secondhand fireball which I absolutely love .
Im 53 and started getting some real issues with my back a couple of years ago .I was getting to slow especially on the pop up due to pain and stiffness which made surfing far less enjoyable .I had some scans which showed significant degeneration of L1/L2 disc.I decided to see a exercise physiologist who showed me how to switch on my core abdominals and gave me a lot of strengthening exercises for my core/glute muscles .This has ended up allowing me to surf pain free but I have to work hard on my fitness and core strength
I find the crowds on the Sunshine Coast generally allow you to get a waves on most sessions (Noosa the exception ).I got out yesterday and had a great surf with clean 3ft surf but did pay a price .After 4 hrs in the water I was getting tired a bailed on a drop I should have committed to and tangled with my board/fin?.Had to have a bit of plastic surgery to my lip to repair the damage.Can't complain as this is the worst injury I had after 40 years of water sports




Macaha
QLD, 21587 posts
28 Aug 2021 5:31PM
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Geez great story and that's a nasty injury

bigmc
NSW, 221 posts
28 Aug 2021 6:16PM
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I bet that hurt. Speedy recovery

GPA
WA, 2453 posts
28 Aug 2021 4:20PM
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kevinwd1 said..
After 4 hrs in the water I was getting tired a bailed on a drop I should have committed to and tangled with my board/fin?.Had to have a bit of plastic surgery to my lip to repair the damage.Can't complain as this is the worst injury I had after 40 years of water sport



Ouch! That does look nasty! I've had an ankle and shoulder recon from surfing - but both of those were 'internal' injuries... have copped a board in the head twice that resulted in stitches - both times not my board, but that's what happens in crowded metro conditions.

I crushed L2 in a cycling accident 20yrs ago - so know what that lower back pain is like.

Hope your surgery / healing goes well.

kevinwd1
QLD, 123 posts
28 Aug 2021 9:12PM
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It didn't actually hurt very much at all.I had to stay over night at hospital so they could administer IV antibiotics , as there's some nasty bugs in the ocean?.The surgeon did a good job and the lip looks pretty good.Should be good to go in a couple of weeks

beastsurf
WA, 847 posts
29 Aug 2021 12:21PM
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I think of the ocean as my gym. I set a target of five waves sometimes ten as quick as possible (when the surf is bad). I always feel better for the paddle and even if its really bad at least you feel as if you've been surfing. I think riding different craft helps build the stoke and alternates like SUPs Kites are all cool.

I got no advise for the crowds. After work sessions are the worst i find. Every one hassling to get a fix after a days work and before the sun drops.

Hopefully we can move around a bit more soon. I think if your surfing into your 60s your a true legend I hope I will be.

unclethirsty
374 posts
29 Aug 2021 1:49PM
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I absolutely hear ya Mac. IIRC there is an article over on Realsurf by Nick Carrol about ageing & loosing the stoke for going for a surf, try & find it was good read. I've had hip replaced both ears done for surfers ear other stuff & got back into surfin, Now at 69 in Oct & last 2 yrs been **** health wise I find myself recovering from a knee replacement & an eye operation, of which a cataract will grow. During & post all this sh-- i only ever thought of getting back on my board. Actually achieved it until last 2 yrs. The song is the same as many have mentioned here the popup is gone so has fitness & it aint coming back any time soon. After many a wasted trip, due to too windy, **** surf crowd yadda yadda, from my place to Palmie (syd) 90k round trip, I decided that I f I drive to beach I go in unless its too big, so I did & it worked..but now I can just feel it all sliding away. Can't even go to the beach due to covid !!! Will I get back out, **** yeah, will I be able to popup remains to be see, but get wet I fu887ng well will & I'll sit on my board like an old fat buddah & sing " Gotta catch that one last wave" to myself & pray that it happens. I've got a big hole in my guts after 59yrs of surfing & looking like I just cannot do it anymore. FMD I miss it. !!

Oh well always lid surfing & body whomping I guess. I need a beer ,sniff, after that. Thirsty Uncle out (in holding pattern)

Macaha
QLD, 21587 posts
29 Aug 2021 3:49PM
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beastsurf said..
I think of the ocean as my gym. I set a target of five waves sometimes ten as quick as possible (when the surf is bad). I always feel better for the paddle and even if its really bad at least you feel as if you've been surfing. I think riding different craft helps build the stoke and alternates like SUPs Kites are all cool.

I got no advise for the crowds. After work sessions are the worst i find. Every one hassling to get a fix after a days work and before the sun drops.

Hopefully we can move around a bit more soon. I think if your surfing into your 60s your a true legend I hope I will be.


Great post,you always feel better after a surf no matter how bad it may have been,one year away from becoming a legend

GPA
WA, 2453 posts
29 Aug 2021 2:15PM
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Seeing as how the contributors to this post may be sympathetic... how do you blokes who wear glasses for distance go? I am finding that I am now having trouble focusing on waves in the distance... and I often have to kinda tune them in by looking at my board - then focus on a spot 2m away, 15m away and then hopefully they will somewhat focus on the sets 30m away... Gives me the sh!ts. Happens more when it's a grey overcast day, or when I am tired.

I am told my eyeballs have scarring from sun damage etc and dry eyes generally - so have been told that I am unlikely to be suitable for contacts - plus the thought of them washing to the back of my eyeball in a wipeout freaks me out a bit...

Any tips from the Seabreeze brains trust on this issue

beachandbush
NSW, 377 posts
29 Aug 2021 5:48PM
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Select to expand quote
GPA said..
Seeing as how the contributors to this post may be sympathetic... how do you blokes who wear glasses for distance go? I am finding that I am now having trouble focusing on waves in the distance... and I often have to kinda tune them in by looking at my board - then focus on a spot 2m away, 15m away and then hopefully they will somewhat focus on the sets 30m away... Gives me the sh!ts. Happens more when it's a grey overcast day, or when I am tired.

I am told my eyeballs have scarring from sun damage etc and dry eyes generally - so have been told that I am unlikely to be suitable for contacts - plus the thought of them washing to the back of my eyeball in a wipeout freaks me out a bit...

Any tips from the Seabreeze brains trust on this issue


I wear glasses full time out of the water.

Your two options are to start paddling when every one else is . Only joking lol

What I do of focus on the different textures of water. When a wave is forming the texture changes on the wave face to what's behind it. The only problem is surge type waves that pop up from nowhere and can disappear just as fast. I'm sure some people think I'm just doing paddle practice but fitness helps as I've a c3 compression and once I've turned I can't look back I just hope.



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"Lay off" started by Macaha