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Bigger balls...

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Created by EnglishCraig > 9 months ago, 20 Aug 2014
EnglishCraig
NSW, 406 posts
20 Aug 2014 12:30PM
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Thought I would preface my question title with what I am sure will be at least some of the responses however for the non-hell men amongst you:

I am early intermediate and pretty comfortable in surf up to 3.5-4' and I'm talking Au scale so a head high face

Once it gets bigger than that I really struggle with making the drop, I'm not struggling to paddle on but I am struggling to make myself carry on paddling and pop up as oppose to losing my bottle and bailing off the back.

I've had a few hefty falls and hold downs which have knocked my confidence a bit but other than going back to smaller stuff does anyone have any tips for taking the drop as it gets bigger etc?

Thanks in advance - craig

beastsurf
WA, 765 posts
20 Aug 2014 11:03AM
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You could try to put in that extra paddle before getting to your feet. When you are at the stage when you would normally stand put in an extra paddle to really get yourself in there. Put your wait forward over the board try not to lean back and above all else keep trying. Be committed.

IFocus
WA, 219 posts
20 Aug 2014 7:06PM
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Be the hunter not the hunted, be aggressive and fully commit, timing position is every thing work on it.

Also confidence counts I am 56 and easily out surf any Euro in Bali in size simply through confidence.

unclethirsty
237 posts
20 Aug 2014 7:29PM
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If you find where to get 'em ..let me know I need a set..or so the balrog says>

GPA
WA, 2217 posts
20 Aug 2014 7:47PM
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G'day,

It is definitely a combination of positioning, committing and taking that extra two paddle strokes... once you can feel the board start to go then push it down a bit further and pop-up...

I have found that if you hesitate you can often put yourself in a worse position that committing and going... you can always go straight (to shore) if you find yourself taking a close-out.

Keep trying, it'll click soon enough and you will have a blast...


Razzonater
1370 posts
20 Aug 2014 7:55PM
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Take two extra paddles, if ya going take off sideways ( serious) if you do you don't lose time turning the board, not fully sideways but enough so when you plant your feet you already have a chance to make the section. And yeah as already said commit. If your going than go if you don't want anything to do with it don't go near it. Whether its 4 foot or 100 don't get lured into the inside on a big day. Don't take off on the shoulder thinking its safer cause its a bit smaller ,less hectic ( not saying you should sit way way up the point or out the back either) the shoulder on larger waves is the most sketchy area to enter, by that stage the water is already moving and has in fact increased in speed, considering you need to be past the top third of the wave once it starts to break ( to make the take off) taking off on the shoulder is suicide. Nowadays if its large when I assess it I also take into account set size. I think to myself would I take off on the biggest set I have seen in the last twenty minutes. If the answer is no than you shouldn't go out there. I used to go out on days when I wouldn't ride set waves, I got more pumped and snapped more boards because of this mentality. If your not into it cause of fear or size or even your having an off day don't try to paddle out. You become a hazard to everyone out there. This is by no means information for just you. Sometimes I would do well to stand in front of a mirror and tell myself the same. All surfers whether they admit or not will now and than paddle out when they know they shouldn't. I am guilty of it on several occasions, some successful where i qm the dude riding the short board who made the sickest pit. Other times however I have been the under gunned dick getting in the way. The guy drifting down the line with no board. The guy coughing on the beach and been laughed at by kids. The guy limping and bleeding up the path and getting in the car. The man who got thrown over the falls and scorpion his own head with his feet. Anyway out of all these outcomes only one ends up with me being the charger who makes a sick big heavy pit. Spewing aye it is a **** reality. But. Once or twice a year I like to go through those options. I like to think of it like a choose your own adventure story. As a final waffle on whilst in dribbling away it pays to surf different boards and mix it up. You may Fonda board that goes well in 1 foot does not in 6. Small subtle rocker and template fins etc will really affect a boards capabilities. As size of waves increase all these factors compound expedientially until they either enhance the board in larger surf or.
A the boards keeps you in the lip to long
B it does not turn
C it is to slow
D too hard to paddle in
E non responsive
If you have encountered at least two of the above than it is time to get a fire going and dispose of your faulty equipment. Should you not like burning things or perhaps have a love of your board than it is best to just karate kick it into two. Piece of **** board to slow unresponsive nose diving rail bogging piece of snot.
Get your pay go to a shaper have a chat explain what you want be honest ( this is hard) tell him where you are, if possible join a board riders club. Go surfing
Thank you all for reading this has been brought to you by coolies waves and nimbins finest

raynef2005
QLD, 147 posts
21 Aug 2014 12:03AM
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The above fellas have summed it up well. For me, the biggest change I noticed in my surfing with regard to making drops in going from intermediate to advanced was commitment. You have to paddle into the wave like you own it, and weren't going to have it any other way. I have also found that this helps with dealing with drop ins - people are less likely to burn you if you are fully committed.

Also, contrary to paddling harder just before takeoff, I have found that positioning is even more crucial. If you position yourself really well for where the set is peaking, you often don't have to paddle as hard. So this is another thing to practice. Get yourself into position early, so that you don't have to paddle your heart out to get into them. Look at John John at pipe, he is the master of the casual paddle and can sometimes take one stroke and pull into an 8 foot bomb. Goes to show how important positioning is. This will also depend on the type of wave you are surfing.

EnglishCraig
NSW, 406 posts
21 Aug 2014 1:25PM
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Awesome responses - thanks so much for everyone's input
Specifically

GPA the hesitation resulting in ending up in a worse position definitely rings a bell!!

Razonater - what you were saying re shoulder versus peak makes so much sense but I doubt I would've figured it out myself! I am definitely a shoulder hoverer

Re boards I now have a pair of grant millers boards and they have definitely helped enormously compared to the off the peg home brand boards i spent the first couple of years on!!

BennyB12
QLD, 903 posts
21 Aug 2014 1:34PM
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RAZZONATER!!
Best post ever!! How good is nimbin???

chrispy
8049 posts
21 Aug 2014 12:54PM
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Select to expand quote
BennyB12 said...
RAZZONATER!!
Best post ever!! How good is nimbin???


Agree

Nimbin is a **** hole filled with meth heads and smackies.the buds are crap and the great old Nimbin has long been gone. A shame really

On the balls,I think everyone has summed it up well. Taking a beating early generally helps as well. Unless its one of those life changing beatings that spook ya. Confidence is only good if ya got the ability to match it imo

EnglishCraig
NSW, 406 posts
21 Aug 2014 3:10PM
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Select to expand quote
chrispy said...
BennyB12 said...
RAZZONATER!!
Best post ever!! How good is nimbin???


Agree

Nimbin is a **** hole filled with meth heads and smackies.the buds are crap and the great old Nimbin has long been gone. A shame really

On the balls,I think everyone has summed it up well. Taking a beating early generally helps as well. Unless its one of those life changing beatings that spook ya. Confidence is only good if ya got the ability to match it imo


Cheers Chrispy - I think my confidence and ability are pretty closely correlated!

Tux
VIC, 3682 posts
21 Aug 2014 3:10PM
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Summed up in three words....Just ****ing Go!!!!

beastsurf
WA, 765 posts
21 Aug 2014 1:52PM
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EDDIE WOULD

jbshack
WA, 6443 posts
21 Aug 2014 2:54PM
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Select to expand quote
EnglishCraig said..

chrispy said...

BennyB12 said...
RAZZONATER!!
Best post ever!! How good is nimbin???



Agree

Nimbin is a **** hole filled with meth heads and smackies.the buds are crap and the great old Nimbin has long been gone. A shame really

On the balls,I think everyone has summed it up well. Taking a beating early generally helps as well. Unless its one of those life changing beatings that spook ya. Confidence is only good if ya got the ability to match it imo



Cheers Chrispy - I think my confidence and ability are pretty closely correlated!


Fitness helps also. The fitter you are the easier it is to take a beating, therefor more likely to take bigger waves than your norm..

Fitness stems right back to better confidence..

Reflex Films
WA, 1276 posts
21 Aug 2014 3:23PM
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Fitness, good paddle power and the right board will give you confidence in solid 6 ft plus. That board that is awesome in waist to head high waves
probably won't work in juicy 6 ft plus. You will need foam . Fast rocker and good fins. Look at volume finally board manufacturers and shapers are getting smart about matching boards to surfers. If you are 85 kegs something. 6,4 to 6,6 by 19 and a half wide without a stupidly thin nose will work for you. Around 35 litres or more. A good board can be the difference between being a victim and being victorious. The gnaraloo chargers are generally riding plenty of volume and length. Board looseness is no longer a huge priority but it should still wrap a nice 200 degrees off a nice top turn.

Grevas
112 posts
22 Aug 2014 7:43AM
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Have a look at Hedgey's round 2 heat at Chopes, instantly makes ya balls double in size. I'm inspired

EnglishCraig
NSW, 406 posts
22 Aug 2014 1:04PM
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Went out this morning with some serious eye of the tiger going on

Extra paddle and getting speed as well as sittin at the peak rather than just off of it

Got more waves in 1.5 hours than I have in the last month - stoked and wanted to share it

thanks to everyone who took the time to respond

Razzonater
1370 posts
22 Aug 2014 2:46PM
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Select to expand quote
EnglishCraig said...
Went out this morning with some serious eye of the tiger going on

Extra paddle and getting speed as well as sittin at the peak rather than just off of it

Got more waves in 1.5 hours than I have in the last month - stoked and wanted to share it

thanks to everyone who took the time to respond


Use your powers for good now

chrispy
8049 posts
22 Aug 2014 3:23PM
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Select to expand quote
Razzonater said...
EnglishCraig said...
Went out this morning with some serious eye of the tiger going on

Extra paddle and getting speed as well as sittin at the peak rather than just off of it

Got more waves in 1.5 hours than I have in the last month - stoked and wanted to share it

thanks to everyone who took the time to respond


Use your powers for good now


Bugger that

Well done mate

genuine
332 posts
24 Aug 2014 1:01PM
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"Bigger balls..." started by EnglishCraig