After Leech kindly did a hull depth puncture test by grinding my board into the razor like rocks at buckets, it was in need of a quick repair, this kind of repair is so that I can take it out the next day and know that it is water tight and structurally strong, no sanding of sharp edges and glass required. I've put up some pics for any one else wanting to do a similar repair. I ground away some glass to allow any wet divinycell to dry out, with the help of a heat gun (hair dryer will do the same job) I mixed 20 ml of resin, wet out 2 layers of 6 oz glass on some plastic and put it aside. I mixed the remainder resin with some qcells to form a bog and filled the hole with this, I then flipped over the glass and plastic onto the wet bog, worked out any air bubbles and pressed it flat. When its dry Ill pull off the plastic and go sailing, I can make it look all pretty at another later date, or not! Easy !

No, not worth the effort for a quick fix.

It wasnt my tongue Can we see some pics of your repair, no I just want to see some pics of the damage

Just had to test out the claim that Bluejuice boards are unbreakable. Myth busted Still, considering the beatings it took I was amazed at how little damage was done. I'm so glad it didn't take you long to fix, I was feeling pretty bad. Awesome idea to get photos of the repair for the rest of us. Thanks!

I new that white lab coat over your wet suit looked suspicious

No ! Borrowed

What plastic do you use and how come it doesn't stick to the glass?!

It's much harder to find a plastic that will stick to epoxy, than one that won't! For a nice shiny smooth finish, Mylar is good.. Overhead Projector sheets from the local stationery place.. Or maybe a panel out of an old sail - although you may want to use some car wax on it first to ensure it doesn't stick in the scratches. But you can also use waxed baking paper (have a rummage in the kitchen drawer), rubbish bags, supermarket bags etc. etc.. basically any smooth plastic sheet will do the trick. It's especially nice if it's a clear sheet, because then you can see what's happening underneath, and make sure that you get all the bubbles out. Yes, epoxy needs hardener, and how long you have to play with it depends on the hardener that you get (there are a range depending on what you're doing with them) and the ambient temperature where you're doing the work. Be careful applying localised heat to a board - the foam in the core will melt if you get it hot enough! And make sure that the vent screw is open throughout the process, otherwise any expansion or contraction of the board due to heat or cooling will either suck the repair in, or blow air up through it - which wouldn't be good for the waterproofness (or the nice finish that you're going to put on it later!) Nice write up Rider5.

$2 painting drop sheet plastic "bunnings" I mix 2 parts of epoxy and have a couple of hours to work with it, this time of year it takes 8 to 12 hours to harden.