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oliver
1916 Posts |
Posted 12/12/2008, 6:02 pm
   
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I was recently reading the surfing forum and the aforementioned topic took my interest. Here is one of the posts which I thought was quite good:
Doctor said...
1... stay away from other surfers... simple enough, you'll just be in the way and a danger for everybody including yourself
2... don't get out of your depth too soon, like i said before, stick to easy waves, small swell, high tide, onshore beach breaks are the best for learning, let whitewash be your friend, it will give you a ride long enough to work out how to get to your feet. you're a learner so get a learners board, you can always upgrade later and learners boards if taken care of always, always hold their value.
3... never ever let the board get between you and a wave.... this is the most likely way of copping a board to the face. always try and fall behind, or to the side of the board and when surfacing, put your hand over your head or cover you face. you'll soon learn why.
I thought they were pretty good tips but after my head injury I started to think about his last point a bit more.
I'm quite safety conscious and always aim to fall well away from my board but I've been hit more than once by the board in the head on surfacing or while in the water - the last time it happened the fin bit me. Since reading this post I've been thinking... when I fall I always hold on to my paddle and it's impractical to cover my head face when I surface.
Has anyone got any other perls of wisdom for a newbie to avoid bad stuff happening. I shudder to think what would have happened if the big fin on my aircraft carrier had hit me there. |
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Brooko
Australia
1620 Posts |
Posted 12/12/2008, 8:31 pm
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Oliver I hate the big looking gay fins that are used on sups (except for the 9 6" naish) .
When I moved to vic I got a new liquid gold billabong steamer, $600 bucks worth, my first surf with it on the 11 6" kalama, the big mad fin put a cut in the chest of my new wetsuit (lucky it wasnt my face). I am over these big fins big time, leave em with the windsurfers or where ever the hell they came from But my advice is whenever bailing go DEEP it has always worked for me in big surf on any board. When you fall off distance yourself as far away as possible from your board, and stay under water a little bit longer till the dust has settled. When Im bailing I try to jump away from my board |
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Greenroom
WA
Australia
5574 Posts |
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Scotty Mac
SA
Australia
1026 Posts |
Posted 12/12/2008, 10:10 pm
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| What wit the look behind you? So you can see where ou have bin? |
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WINDY MILLER
WA
Australia
2591 Posts |
Posted 13/12/2008, 8:19 am
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oly,
full length wetsuits defo are your friend from fin cuts,
if you keep getting taps on the head, your doing something wrong, but i'd be putting a lid on my noggin till i sorted it out..
most of the time when you fall, the board should be way out in front....
but
one of The WORST falls your going to get is when your droping down a pitching face, you trip a rail, and then fall ontop of the other rail....it's gonna hurt no matter what...ribs and winded usual outcome.... watched this happen to greenroom once on a tiny knee high wave and he ended up coughin blood. |
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WINDY MILLER
WA
Australia
2591 Posts |
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Brooko
Australia
1620 Posts |
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shimmyshazbo
QLD
Australia
77 Posts |
Posted 13/12/2008, 8:40 am
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| if ya dont wanna cop one in the head, when you fall off and your under water take note of which way your leash is pulling your leg!!!! if its pulling hard stay under until the board flys overhead. |
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Gorgo
VIC
Australia
1287 Posts |
Posted 13/12/2008, 10:16 am
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Learn to hold your breath and just chill out underwater.
The feeling that you are going to die if you don't get a breath is just that, a feeling. It's a reflex caused by CO2 in your blood. It has nothing to do with the need for air. One thing is almost guaranteed, if you breathe under water you will most likely die.
Once you can control the urge to breathe you can go deep to avoid nasty stuff and survive hold downs and assorted tumblings and come up comfortably when all the action has ended.
I have always surfaced with one arm over my head and one arm extended upwards. You should be able to do that with a paddle in the extended arm. In normal surfing the danger is that boards get popped upwards then come down on top of you. With SUP you still have that risk plus the mass of this aircraft carrier being washed into you.
I think with a SUP it is a good thing to just go with the waves and run away rather than trying to beat your way through white water. With the faster paddling speed of the SUP you can usually get all the way out in a lull rather than fighting set waves. Or ride reef breaks where you can paddle away from the impact zone. |
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aus301
QLD
Australia
1030 Posts |
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Greenroom
WA
Australia
5574 Posts |
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STNDUP
VIC
Australia
241 Posts |
Posted 14/12/2008, 11:41 am
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Greenroom, I feel your pain! I lived on Oahu for a couple of years and we used to have a paddle at lunch..........Surfing knee high one day, trying to get a little extra out of a wave, pearled the nose which then popped back up as I was falling toward it. 12 stitches installed before I went back to work.
It doesnt have to be big to inflict damage........For sure! |
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Tux
VIC
Australia
443 Posts |
Posted 15/12/2008, 10:49 am
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If there is no one around...ditch the legrope...the swimming will help your fitness and the board will be less inclined to come back and slap your head |
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DavidJohn
VIC
Australia
5464 Posts |
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STNDUP
VIC
Australia
241 Posts |
Posted 15/12/2008, 12:12 pm
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| Speaking of leashes..........anybody know where I can get a Dakine 12' in Melbourne? |
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theDoctor
NSW
Australia
1145 Posts |
Posted 15/12/2008, 4:33 pm
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oliver said...I was recently reading the surfing forum and the aforementioned topic took my interest. Here is one of the posts which I thought was quite good: Doctor said...
1... stay away from other surfers... simple enough, you'll just be in the way and a danger for everybody including yourself
2... don't get out of your depth too soon, like i said before, stick to easy waves, small swell, high tide, onshore beach breaks are the best for learning, let whitewash be your friend, it will give you a ride long enough to work out how to get to your feet. you're a learner so get a learners board, you can always upgrade later and learners boards if taken care of always, always hold their value.
3... never ever let the board get between you and a wave.... this is the most likely way of copping a board to the face. always try and fall behind, or to the side of the board and when surfacing, put your hand over your head or cover you face. you'll soon learn why.
I thought they were pretty good tips but after my head injury I started to think about his last point a bit more. I'm quite safety conscious and always aim to fall well away from my board but I've been hit more than once by the board in the head on surfacing or while in the water - the last time it happened the fin bit me. Since reading this post I've been thinking... when I fall I always hold on to my paddle and it's impractical to cover my head face when I surface. Has anyone got any other perls of wisdom for a newbie to avoid bad stuff happening. I shudder to think what would have happened if the big fin on my aircraft carrier had hit me there.
wow that doctor guy is pretty smart.... i hear he's a real hit with the ladies too |
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