went for a surf this arvo, nothing doing at laceys so i headed out to the crowded point. very small tight takeoff area. the wave its self was pretty gutless and what i would call a cutback wave. struggled to cope with the crowd and wave on my yellow dc first up , but managed to get some good ones.couldn't help think i would have been better off on this board


at 29" and wider tail, i would have been more nimble through the crowd and it would have surfed that wave a lot better
anyway, i got jack off it and the wave was giving me the s####, so i headed back down to lacey's which was now cooking- thumping and barrelling, that's when i was really glad to be on the yellow one




those coming up for the roar comp, it might be a good idea to bring the wider one too
cheers
ps. nice to see jacko back out there

husq2100 said...

sounds like you need to paddle out 3 or 4 boards and an esky full of different fins, anchor them out past the break and change to suit......

one set of fins does all - sunnies

husq2100 said...

well thats one thing to cross off the list, now just another 20-30 boards and you might have it nailed

lol

SECARTERMUSS said...

Hey mate i noticed the Bigger ones out the front out wide where very slow and fat tide was to high but inside the smaller reforms where so much quicker.
I watch you out laceys for about 1/2 hour it looked like it was getting better but more and more of the crowd was slowly turning.

Tomorrow

Marty

yeah marty, you've got it wired alright. good wave to be a goofy footer on and you get to paddle straight into it and keep an eye on everyone
cheers

Nice one mate.
Yep you definately had it better earlier, phil was watch you from the tower hanging to get out there on his lunch break. He is sporting a nice cut and nock to the knee after a guy on a mal fell off On the wave as Phil was paddling out.
He wasn't to happy.

Tomorrow

Marty

62mac said...

Gee I've got to find a job that gives me more time off you lucky buggers

hey mac,got the work at the moment that's not full on. i will not get rich, but i figure get the surfing in now while the body and mind can still do it.work to live, not live to work i say. sitting on a jason recliner with a blanket on my lap and a hot water bottle on my back counting all my money, but can't do anything, what's the point
cheers
ps how's that for twisted view of life