So what sort of welder do I need to buy for learning the craft and doing jobs like fixing boat trailers, making racks and general mending of steel items around the homestead? I can't imagine doing anything more than small jobs with thicknesses up to 5mm.

myusernam said..

get an inverter style (DC) stick. can do mild steen and stainless. also an auto darkening helmet will help you a lot.
Fine for small jobs.

100% agree! DC welding is a doddle and the machines are small, light and have an outstanding duty cycle. I've been using a CigWeld 170amp inverter jog for a few years now and wouldn't even consider another transformer welder. Unless you're going to be using it at least every couple of days probably don't go for a MIG. They're great machines, but for the occasional user they are costly on gas (bottle rent), or if you go gassless they spatter a whole lot. They also become a maintenance nuisance and the wire (especially gassless) is not cheap for the retail buyer. However, despite that, there are quite a few MIG/MAG/TIG/MMA combination machines available now, and mostly inverter style, one of which I've just bought. Haven't even plugged it in yet. If you're mostly welding stuff 1.6mm or thinner you'll need MIG or TIG. Also, DC TIG is NOT suitable for aluminium.

Awesome!

Top stuff! Thanks heaps!

stamp said..

hey cisco, check out the duty cycle on that lincoln before you buy it. the 10 amp single phase migs are generally pretty poor at the high end of their range. ok if you're only doing light stuff, but a real pain in the arse if you plan to get stuck in properly.

I am looking to do repairs on my steel yacht which is 4 mm plate. I will only ever have 10 amp single phase power available.

To avoid distortion, the runs will have to be fairly short, say 100 mm before going opposite side and direction. Do you think it would be up to the job?

They state the duty cycle as being 130A/20V/30% and it's rated out put 130A/20V @ 25%.

My BOC inverter unit has a 65% duty cycle and it works for me with fairly low amps. I have never had it over 85 amps.

I'd go gas mig.

Easy to use, point and shoot.

i've got a uni mig 170 amp running argosheild and it does everything I need and more.


it's a great addition to the beer economy as well.

I agree with the guy with the finger stuck in his eye.
For small welding jobs, fixing gates, machinery welding etc, I used to use an ordinay AC stick welder. Dirt cheap and with practice, they do a half decent job, but require a bit of skill to do a three quarter decent job or better.

About 5 years ago I finally bought a mig welder, mostly only because I always wanted one.
I didn't use it all that much because after the novelty wore off, I could't be bothered dragging out the gas cylinder and connecting it up. The cylinder costs about 160 a year to rent I might add, and going up every year.

Then a few years ago I bought an inverter welder.
They are much easier to use and generally do a better and more easily controlled weld.
You can still make a mess if you really try but with very little practice you can do a respectable job.
Now, that's all I use and my super mig welder sits in the corner gathering dust, along with the 160 dollar a year gas cylinder.

pweedas said..

Now, that's all I use and my super mig welder sits in the corner gathering dust, along with the 160 dollar a year gas cylinder.

We are lucky over here in Sydney as a company started selling argon cylinders a few years ago. They have a sort of swap-and-go setup for argon and argon mixes. Unfortunately they can't do oxygen as apparently it needs specific handling in shops, which is a shame as I have a bottle of oxygen that just sits around owing dollars for the few times I want to use it.

I used the disposable argon cylinders twice and I assumed that they were faulty, but instead, they just don't hold much!

On the other hand, welding with mig can be fun if its setup right. From the start my Transmig 135 PoS had problems with the feed roller not working, and I didn't know if it was me or the rig. I fixed that. Then the valve on the gun failed, so I converted it to a euro connector and added a gas solenoid. Now the thing works really well! I've only ever had it shut down from being too hot once when I was using it at its highest setting, and that was after quite a long time welding.

My brother bought a tig and I tried that, but it seems too difficult for me. Are they meant for small/slow work, or is it just my technique? I might have to buy one of the combination tig/inverter setups and give it a bit more time.

Anyone know what's the best and cheapest setup to be able to successfully weld aluminium (up to say 6mm)?

Lincoln now sell a "cheaper" range of machines which they call "WeldMaster" They are cheap Chinese machines, only backed up by Lincoln. That's what I bought: WeldMaster iMIG 175. It's a digital inverter job which does MIG (argon)/MAG (Any CO2 mix), TIG and MMA (good ol' stick). For my $620.00 it came with all the goodies - MIG, TIG and MMA cables/hand pieces, gas regulator and hoses, full set of feed rollers, spare tips, spare tungsten electrode, 5Kg roll of 0.8 gasless wire and a nice carry bag for all the bits. As I said before, neither DC TIG nor MIG is suitable for aluminium, so if aluminium is your thing you need an AC machine and expensive gas - argon. Unless aluminium is all you're going to do pweedas (above) is absolutely right.

If you're just the typical home handyman who wants to be able to do the odd steel project (patio, trailer, board racks, tandem bike for the kidz etc) then there's really only 1 sensible choice - inverter stick welder with at least 140 - 150 amp capability. For the handyman, Satincraft or their WIA equivalents are the way to go. They're called "touch rods", which means that you just rest the rod on the workpiece, at the correct angle, and drag it along at the right pace. For all your typical household handyman welding that'll do it with aplomb. As you get better you can experiment with other rods, including stainless steel. MIG certainly has its place, but not for the occasional home handyman welder.

Arc welder a machine of the 80`s Good for bird **** and making molton metal droplets into anything under 5mm,.

If your going to be welding fine stuff like patio tubes trusses go a gas-less mig or even better a gas mig. You can keep the amps down enough weld it. Dont waste your time with a shifty stick welder if your a beginner. Point and shoot

(cant stick galvanized metal)leaves work holes.. You have to grind the galvo off to get good inert shielding.

http://www.toolmart.com.au/brand/cigweld/w1004500.html
run gasless for steel use argon and dill your tips out 1mm over size and run aluminum thu the rollers so it slides not jams !

Claim it back on tax ;-)

start current on 1.6 mm plate on a stick makes me cringe! and im pretty sure any penetration you get will drop out the bottom and onto the floor! heat distortion another major factor! it can be done just spot tack it dont lay a run til you got those amps perfect!! and dont leave any gaps in your cuts and youl do just fine! good luck! im lucky enough to borrow the one from work!

I have had great luck with my Millermatic mig. If you don't want to use gas you can get a wire that lets you weld without. I got a spool gun and have been able to weld aluminum fairly well. I have had some sucsess with stainless as well. It has 220 or 110 volt and is automatic for settings. For a beginner it was just the ticket.

Its better to TIG old ali with corrosion in it. TIG (and 100 percent argon)will give the opportunity to use heat and penetration to burn out imperfections/corrosion to the surface to regrind out.

Corrosion in Ali would be a large contributor to the the state of the welds that are currently corroding on existing boat. It will be an expensive repair or timely. Aluminum has to be extremely clean before fabrication~!

TIP ;-) .Let the weld cool and use the "post flow" To keep the gas shielding on the weld and surrounding area as it cools.

pweedas said..
The best setup for welding aluminium is to get the real person down the road to do it.
In teh long run, it's probably also the cheapest.
Boat repair places usually do a pretty good job. If they farm it out, find out where they send it and go there.

Hey Macro', this is your only REAL solution. It needs to be TIGged with pure argon by an expert. Just Google up the cost of argon - bottle rent + a fill. Before you do, be sitting down holding something firm .