you could tightly wrap with tape and pin prick holes to bleed off resin.

Peel ply, breather such as paper towel, cloth etc. wrap real tight with packing tape, it's stretchy so applies a lot of pressure. This is how I do most rail repairs.
Peel ply is just 100% polyester fabric, readily available from any fabric place.

lockdown ?
what lockdown

Not even the peel ply .... budget version = laminate normally then put a dry layer of 4oz glass cloth on. Wrap hard with electrical tape with about a 1/3 width overlap.
That pressure from a stretchy tape will ensure the resin gets through to the surface but not such that it needs to escape.

Advantage is glass over top will give it a little better abrasion resistance too.

I've been working on my foil during the lockdown and I'm approaching the end of the process.

I ended up wrapping the tip of my foil in carbon, and using a cheap vacuum storage bag to hold it all during cure. I did some tests and it held vacuum for 24 hours. I don't think it would be much good for doing a whole board with porous foam, but it was just fine for a hard object like a foil. The results look great.

I wanted to wrap the tip because most foils seem to have a separate top and bottom layer. Damage to the foil generally shows some cracking and splitting around the edge. I am hoping wrapping the tip in carbon with hold it together and be a lot stronger (and hopefully not end transferring the damage somewhere else).

The vacuum bagging community talk about very high pressure vacuum for doing stuff. The videos I watched and the instructions for my West resin talk about not having too strong a vacuum to avoid dry joints.

The Youtube videos talked about letting the resin partially cure before applying the carbon so it would stick, and then wetting it out from the top. I was concerned that those videos were talking about cosmetic carbon skinning and not something structural. The instructions for my West resin didn't mention that so I went for a normal wet out process. It worked fine.

I sewed a sleeve of peel ply that closely fit the tip of the foil. It absorbed the excess resin and held everything in position while putting it in the vacuum bag. When peeled off the surface was nicely textured with no bumps or wrinkles. I used some scrap quilt batting to absorb the excess resin.

I sprayed the carbon with a little 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. That stopped the carbon shredding. I moulded the carbon to the shape of the tip and the adhesive held it nicely in place. It was easy to remove the carbon so I could wet out the surface of the foil before reapplying the carbon and wetting it out and pressing it down with a plastic squeegee.

I bought some super precise scales from ebay, and a couple of tiny silicone mixing cups and stirrers. I could accurately mix tiny batches of resin and apply it precisely (smallest batch is 1.8 grams which is enough to cover the tip of the foil). The silicone stuff is easy to clean and reuse. The whole process is very mess free.

I didn't try laminating the tip with fibreglass. I didn't want the tip to end up too thick. The whole foil is carbon so it seemed appropriate to do it all in carbon. I have some old glass and carbon fins I can use to experiment in laminating layers around sharp corners.

Very much liking this carbon and epoxy work with a little vacuum and peel ply.

See above and kiteforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=196&t=2407240&p=1108901#p1108901

I wouldn't bother going the full carbon repair unless there is a reason to do it. I did it as a learning exercise and something to do in lockdown. My foil had 500 hours on it and a few patch ups. It's such a good foil I wanted to refurbish it. It's fun and easy, if you do it right, and pretty expensive. There's a lot of bits and pieces to buy. They're not individually expensive but it adds up.

I did some practice runs on an old surfboard. It's now got a carbon nose. :-) I learned quite a bit doing that.

Cheers guys I have glass, just wasn't sure if this thing needed carbon fibre. The pics probably look like nothing happened (although I definitely whacked into something which felt hard) and I did try to poke them with a pin but it wasn't going through. I put some Araldite Epoxy mix in the holes but after I did that I still got water droplets leaking out the two holes marked. Worries they'll suck up / have water forced in hence reason inquiring about a wee glass patch.
any hints on this would be appreciated, don't really want to take it back to the foam as to build it up again would be difficult. My SUP job was on a flat surface.

You can check for leaks by chilling the foil down (leave it out on a cold night, immerse it in ice water), then heat it in the sun or a warm room or heating duct.

Smear soapy water on the area and check for bubbles.

You should be able to see any cracks using a magnifier, or take a close up photo and zoom in on it. If you can see a crack it's probably a leak.

Realistically you need to sand or grind until there's no visible cracks, or groove the cracks to make a shape to hold the thickened epoxy. Just smearing on some epoxy and hoping is a bit optimistic.