I have a radiant wood heater and want to know how close I can have it to the wall.
The manufactures instructions say 400mm but may be closer to the wall if the wall is not combustible (ie brick or plastered brick) or if the wall is protected by an additional shield.
Instead of getting the standard plaster on brick, we got gyprock stuck onto the bricks. Dry wall. No wood or studs just gyprock glued directly onto the internal brick walls.
My question is... Is this classed as combustible? And how close can I put my heater to the wall?
Thanks

www.gyprock.com.au/products/plasterboard-fyrchek

We used this stuff in a commercial build. Still would leave at least 100mm between it and the oven. Depends how easy it is to remove the existing gyprock sheet and replace with fyrechek. Thicker than normal gyprock 16mm so will sit proud of the rest of the wall.

I have a hearth with a large old Tasmanian open fireplace. The surrounding walls are plaster and the fascia is flame retardant gyp-rocka (same as sameh pointed out). There is insurance issues if the installation does not comply with specs.. You would have to post the exact fireplace model and id have to look it up. There is fireplaces available with shielding on side and back for specific requirements.

Another main concern is the flu. Depending on the fireplace the flu that runs thru the roof may require double insulation.(check your rook insulation isnt old and combustible) ( 2 chimneys with fire retardant between) . My inner flue is 8 inches and out is 10 The fireplace is uninstalled because its in the centre of the house runs thru the main beams overhead requires a lobster back bend. Its more feasible for us to spend the money on reverse cycle !


There is advantages of having a second insulation flu the major one being the ceiling strapping dont drop or you wont get ceiling cracks if you stoke it up . Another advantage would be less condensation accumulation during early morning.

Thanks for the comments and help.
Here are some photos that might help.
The place where it's to go.


The plate on the back of the heater.


The flue


The instructions say 400mm from combustible walls. I want to go closer

400mm from the backing plate.

My Kent tile fire at the farm was set only 250mm away from the gyprock wall and after the first winter the paint was buggered and the cardboard coating had dissolved/ powdered.

We refitted a fibro sheet and tiled behind it.

We also had to enlarge the hole in the stainless ceiling shroud to get some airflow through, to keep the roof timbers from smouldering as they were only 200mm away from the double flue pipe. I replaced them with steel later on, for piece of mind.

Mallee roots burn pretty hot.

Also make absolutely sure that you have wiped off all your finger prints on your exposed flue with metho, before you light it for the first time, as their pattern will bake onto it. Much more noticeable with a stainless steel flue.

My prints are still there for all to see and it was installed 29 years ago.

Have a look at rockett mass heaters , way more efficient than conventional wood heaters.

My dad installed some stone faced material around a combustion heater years ago. It was about 100mm from the heater to the wall, and behind the material were bricks.

One night, the 'masonite' backing of the stone caught fire. I guess it dried out after a while and ignited, even though it was behind about 6mm of stone/brick. These were the days before smoke detectors, so luckily someone woke up from the smoke.

If I were doing it, I would be paranoid about it.

Done. Thanks everyone for your help. 400mm it is

You sure that's 400 Owen?

Yeah, no sorry - we are going to have to see a shot with a measuring tape up against that gap....Otherwise I'm writing to someone...