Try:
solidracks.com/

I stuck ~500mm lengths of broom-handle-sized dowel into tight fitting holes drillied into 4"x4" pine. Works well.

Zed said..

dirtyharry said..

I stuck ~500mm lengths of broom-handle-sized dowel into tight fitting holes drillied into 4"x4" pine. Works well.

Ok that could work. I've got two lengths of pine bolted to the wall and the brackets have been screwed into the pine. So I could use dowels. How deep did you drill into the pine. The pine I have is , probably no thicker than 1", so not sure if would support broom-handle-sized dowels.

It was a couple of years ago, but pretty sure I only drilled in about 50mm or so. Had to use one of those fflat chisel-bit drill bits. I remember being skeptical at the time as to whether they'd be storng enough or not, but they've held up really well so far.

To make those sort of racks I welded some RHS to angle iron and bolted the angle iron to the wall. The RHS was for the horizontal supports.

It worked, but I used galvanised steel and just a little bit of salt water made it corrode quicker than I thought it would. Maybe I should dry my gear?

Now, I store all the boards and sails vertically, separated by lengths of electrical conduit placed into holes in pine battens that run horizontally across the wall. It takes up the whole space, but at least you don't have to struggle to get boards up high.

Hi Zed

Those brackets you have the diagonal part can be removed. You will need to pull the right angle apart slightly but the diagonal bit will just pop out.

After that its just a case of how heavy is the stuff you are mounting on it.

I used to have a shelf made of 33mm MDF (leftovers from another project) supported by two of these with the diagonal bit removed. It was a bit bouncy but stored a significant amount of stuff.

If you're only storing a 10-15 kg SUP on it they will be fine.

To make the timber thicker/deeper just screw another section on top to make it thick enough to get at least 50mm deep holes.

When you drill the holes for the dowels/broomsticks drill at an angle of approx. 30 degrees so that the boards and gear sit back into the back of the rack which seems to help in my racks to make it feel very stronger. I didn't glue the dowels in but made them a tight fit so they don't pull out if I drag the gear off - I also put some pipe insulation on them for gear that doesn't have covers.

Good luck but I reckon it's an easy fix.....and works well in my shed.

Put them up as-as ..... with a bit of wood about 500mm long screwed on top, bit of foam like carpet underlay glued on top, and you can stack 3 boards on it - plenty strong.

Or as DirtyH says, 4x4 pine with broom handle. 1" spade bit and 1" broom handle, bit of araldite, foam tube like plumbing insulation over it, done in an afternoon

I've done both and have 12 boards from knee height to just over head height on same wall.