Just finished a great book titled "All for a few perfect waves" written by David Rensin, published by Yellow Jersey Press.
If you like surf stories, you'll love this read.
For those of you who don't know the famous surfer, Miki Dora was the king of Malibu Point, Cal during the 50's and 60's.
There will never be another surfer like Miki 'da Cat' Dora.
For 20 years the dashing and enigmatic dark prince of California surfing dominated the Malibu waves and his peer's imaginations.
When the sport exploded into the mainstream and surfing changed for ever, Dora's paradise was lost.
Dora eventually fled Malibu, seeking empty waves (and anonymity) beyond America.
He'd also run afoul of the law, and he led the authorities on a 7 year chase around the globe.
After his arrest and imprisonment, he would return to America once in a while...
but never again to live, and in the end only to die.
It is a story of one man's insistence on personal freedom - and the rewards and the costs that brings.
It is also a story of innocence lost, of the growth and commercialisation of the California lifestyle.
The life of Miki Dora is the greatest surf story never told.

Here's a paragraph from the book:
"Reclusive and gregarious, cocksure and cryptic, primitive and urbane, solemn and witty, canny and reckless, uncompromising and mercurial, contradictory and unequivocal, Dora was surfing's most outspoken practitioner, charismatic prince, chief antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery. He wanted it that way. Except, of course, when he didn't."
"Loner. Rebel. Outlaw. Wanderer. Legend."

Some Miki quotes:
"No problem is so big or so complicated that it can't be run away from."

"Life is passing time as gracefully as possible."

"Waves are the ultimate illusion. They come out of nowhere, instantaneously materialise and just as quickly they break and vanish. Chasing after such fleeting mirages is a complete waste of time. That is what I chose to do with my life."