Easy fixed - just mount the motor on the other end of the auger, or drill the hole from the bottom up .

It's been said before, but I'd love to spend a couple of hours watching what goes on inside your head Macro.

ikw777 said...
PHD conversion? I thought this was going to be a thread about exiting with an MPhil. (figure that one out)

I am sorry to dissappoint you Kilowatt but I am down to earth guy and this is all about earth digging.
I hope I could dig some gold nuggets by a chance.[}:)]
My PHD shortcut doesn't stand even for Ph.D,
just simple Post Hole Digger or Auger in short

Macroscien said...

ikw777 said...
PHD conversion? I thought this was going to be a thread about exiting with an MPhil. (figure that one out)

I am sorry to dissappoint you Kilowatt but I am down to earth guy and this is all about earth digging.
I hope I could dig some gold nuggets by a chance.[}:)]
My PHD shortcut doesn't stand even for Ph.D,
just simple Post Hole Digger or Auger in short

Well, you don't exactly have a good rep for English usage Macro!

The chainsaw uses a universal motor doesn't it (wound stator and rotor). If so, and the gearbox can handle it, reverse the wiring to either the stator's field windings or rotor. Hope I got the terminology correct!

*edit: fixed up the terminology

Macroscien said...

FormulaNova said...
The chainsaw uses a universal motor doesn't it (wound armature and rotor). If so, and the gearbox can handle it, reverse the wiring to either the field winding or rotor. Hope I got the terminology correct!

I may try this, but still have some hope that I don't need to open and unscrew everything again.
Since universal motor works both on AC or DC , I wonder if by putting rectifier in serial and then changing polarization will:
a) change the spin
or
b) universal motor works on DC in one direction regardless of polarization (depending only on internal wiring) ?

No, rectifying it to DC is not going to change anything. The motor will always run in the same direction, no matter which polarity you hooked it up with.

A universal motor needs to have the polarity of the field OR the rotor changed in order to change its direction. Its the same if its AC, DC, or any other C.

If you don't understand why polarity is not gong to make a difference, if you rectify it, take a look at the wiki page:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_motor

The first paragraph and the last paragraph both describe this.

FormulaNova said...
If you don't understand why polarity is not gong to make a difference, if you rectify it, take a look at the wiki page:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_motor

The first paragraph and the last paragraph both describe this.

In such case if I change A1 and A2 that should be sufficient
?
That will be easy access to the brushes from another

- top side of that motor

Macroscien said...

In such case if I change A1 and A2 that should be sufficient
?
That will be easy access to the brushes from another

- top side of that motor

Yes, that would probably do it.

FormulaNova said...

Macroscien said...

FormulaNova said...
I would want some sort of safety switch where it automatically stops somehow. Say when you released it or something.

right, I could add some thermal fuse to avoid overloading when stack and burning whole motor.
The sort I have in my electric tiller already.

No, I meant something to stop it when you get your shirt caught in it and it won't stop, sort of switch.

???
Sort of DEAD MAN SWITCH ?? All trains suppose to have one.
How it may work ?

That was sort of thing that actually happend to my original petrol motor in this exactly auger.
Somehow stack on high revs
then I released accelerator-
still on on high speed !!
turned the ingnition off
-still on !!!!
-rip the ingition cable off the spark plug !!
-- Still on full revs
I left the thing running full speed on the ground and run to bring the hose with water -
after a minute of purring water on the engine eventually stopped

$350 stress less :)Its bin done before no need to reinvent the wheel I guess some ppl just have to much time on their hands
www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/AUGER-POST-HOLE-DIGGER-49CC-WITH-THREE-AUGERS/30723/

Macroscien said...

That was sort of thing that actually happend to my original petrol motor in this exactly auger.
Somehow stack on high revs
then I released accelerator-
still on on high speed !!
turned the ingnition off
-still on !!!!
-rip the ingition cable off the spark plug !!
-- Still on full revs
I left the thing running full speed on the ground and run to bring the hose with water -
after a minute of purring water on the engine eventually stopped

Weird. Sounds like it was hot enough to diesel. I never thought that could happen, but it must have. I suspect the throttle wasn't moving though, and stuck open, as I am not sure it would continue on at high speed if the throttle plate was almost closed, even if it was running without a spark.

At least you can unplug an electric motor easily! It would feel safer after having that happen with a petrol motor.

FormulaNova said...
but sometimes you get a sense of satisfaction from modifying things to do what you want

+10
I am almost not happy with any new device or tool I buy and instantly try to modify it

Apparently not all universal motors are designed to work in both direction comfortably.
After reversing cables on brushes connectors motor works in opposite direction,
auger dig in in the ground like in butter but there is excessive sparking on the commutator
that could burn the motor eventually quick

so unless I will find another motor, the best could be lightweight induction motor , (because is very quiet) , at 3000 RPM which ideal to propel this gearbox,
the project is now dead ...

Induction motor should be also much easier to attach to the auger and clutch could be mounted directly on the shaft.