Paddling across entire oceans.

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Simondo
Simondo
VIC
8025 posts
VIC, 8025 posts
21 Feb 2012 1:10pm
A summary of a life journey.

www.theage.com.au/world/you-couldnt-script-it-world-loses-one-of-its-most-interesting-men-20120221-1tkfb.html



You couldn't script it: world loses one of its most interesting men
February 21, 2012 - 9:42AM


John Fairfax and then-girlfriend Sylvia Cook pictured in London in 1972. They survived the voyage but their romance ultimately wouldn't. Photo: Getty
He crossed the Atlantic because it was there, and the Pacific because it was also there.

He made both crossings in a rowboat because it, too, was there, and because the lure of sea, spray and sinew, and the history-making chance to traverse two oceans without steam or sail, proved irresistible.

In 1969, after six months alone on the Atlantic battling storms, sharks and encroaching madness, John Fairfax, who died this month at 74, became the first lone oarsman in recorded history to traverse any ocean.

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Fairfax stands beside his 22-foot rowing boat, Britannia, at King George V Dock in London, prior to his Atlantic crossing. Photo: AP
In 1972, he and his girlfriend, Sylvia Cook, sharing a boat, became the first people to row across the Pacific, a yearlong ordeal during which their craft was thought lost. (The couple survived the voyage, and so, for quite some time, did their romance.)

Both journeys were the subject of fevered coverage by the news media. They inspired two memoirs by Fairfax, Britannia: Rowing Alone Across the Atlantic and, with Cook, Oars Across the Pacific, both published in the early 1970s.

Fairfax died on February 8 at his home in Henderson, Nevada, near Las Vegas. The apparent cause was a heart attack, said his wife, Tiffany. A professional astrologer, she is his only immediate survivor. Cook, who became an upholsterer and spent the rest of her life quietly on dry land (though she remained a close friend of Fairfax), lives outside London.


Fairfax and Cook leave the Gilbert Islands on their way to Australia by rowboat. Photo: Getty
For all its bravura, Fairfax's seafaring almost pales beside his earlier ventures. Footloose and handsome, he was a flesh-and-blood character out of Graham Greene, with more than a dash of Hemingway and Ian Fleming shaken in.

At 9, he settled a dispute with a pistol.

At 13, he lit out for the Amazon jungle.


Fairfax and Cook arrive on Tarawa, an atoll in the Pacific Ocean. Photo: Getty
At 20, he attempted suicide-by-jaguar. Afterward he was apprenticed to a pirate. To please his mother, who did not take kindly to his being a pirate, he briefly managed a mink farm, one of the few truly dull entries on his otherwise crackling resume, which lately included a career as a professional gambler.

Fairfax was among the last avatars of a centuries-old figure: the lone-wolf explorer, whose exploits are conceived to satisfy few but himself. His was a solitary, contemplative art that has been all but lost amid the contrived derring-do of adventure-based reality television.

The only child of an English father and a Bulgarian mother, John Fairfax was born on May 21, 1937, in Rome, where his mother had family; he scarcely knew his father, who worked in London for the BBC.

Seeking to give her son structure, his mother enrolled him at 6 in the Italian Boy Scouts. It was there, Fairfax said, that he acquired his love of nature - and his determination to bend it to his will.

On a camping trip when he was 9, John concluded a fight with another boy by filching the scoutmaster's pistol and shooting up the campsite. No one was injured, but his scouting career was over.

His parents' marriage dissolved soon afterward, and he moved with his mother to Buenos Aires. A bright, impassioned dreamer, he devoured tales of adventure, including an account of the voyage of Frank Samuelsen and George Harbo, Norwegians who in 1896 were the first to row across the Atlantic. John vowed that he would one day make the crossing alone.

At 13, in thrall to Tarzan, he ran away from home to live in the jungle. He survived there as a trapper with the aid of local peasants, returning to town periodically to sell the jaguar and ocelot skins he had collected.

He later studied literature and philosophy at a university in Buenos Aires and at 20, despondent over a failed love affair, resolved to kill himself by letting a jaguar attack him. When the planned confrontation ensued, however, reason prevailed - as did the gun he had with him.

In Panama, he met a pirate, applied for a job as a pirate's apprentice and was taken on. He spent three years smuggling guns, liquor and cigarettes around the world, becoming captain of one of his boss' boats, work that gave him superb navigational skills.

When piracy lost its lustre, he gave his boss the slip and fetched up in 1960s London, at loose ends. He revived his boyhood dream of crossing the ocean and, since his pirate duties had entailed no rowing, he began to train.

He rowed daily on the Serpentine, the lake in Hyde Park. Barely more than half a mile long, it was about one eight-thousandth the width of the Atlantic, but it would do.On January 20, 1969, Fairfax pushed off from the Canary Islands, bound for Florida. His 22-foot craft, the Britannia, was the Rolls-Royce of rowboats: made of mahogany, it had been created for the voyage by the eminent English boat designer Uffa Fox. It was self-righting, self-bailing and partly covered.

Aboard were provisions (Spam, oatmeal, brandy); water; and a temperamental radio. There was no support boat and no chase plane - only Fairfax and the sea. He caught fish and sometimes boarded passing ships to cadge food, water and showers.The long, empty days spawned a temporary madness. Desperate for female company, he talked ardently to the planet Venus.

On July 19, 1969 - Day 180 - Fairfax, tanned, tired and about 20 pounds lighter, made landfall at Hollywood, Florida. ''This is bloody stupid,'' he said as he came ashore. Two years later, he was at it again.

This time Cook, a secretary and competitive rower he had met in London, was aboard. Their new boat, the Britannia II, also a Fox design, was about 36 feet long, large enough for two though still little more than a toy on the Pacific.

''He's always been a gambler,'' Cook, 73, recalled by telephone on Wednesday. ''He was going to the casino every night when I met him - it was craps in those days. And at the end of the day, adventures are a kind of gamble, aren't they?''

Their crossing, from San Francisco to Hayman Island, Australia, took 361 days - from April 26, 1971, to April 22, 1972 - and was an 8,000-mile cornucopia of disaster.

''It was very, very rough, and our rudder got snapped clean off,'' Cook said. ''We were frequently swamped, and at night you didn't know if the boat was the right way up or the wrong way up.''

Fairfax was bitten on the arm by a shark, and he and Cook became trapped in a cyclone, lashing themselves to the boat until it subsided. Unreachable by radio for a time, they were presumed lost.

For all that, Cook said, there were abundant pleasures.

''The nights not too hot, sunny days when you could just row,'' she recalled. ''You just hear the clunking of the rowlocks, and you stop rowing and hear little splashings of the sea.''

Fairfax was often asked why he chose a rowboat to beard two roiling oceans.

''Almost anybody with a little bit of know-how can sail,'' he said in a profile on the website of the Ocean Rowing Society International, which adjudicates ocean rowing records.

''I'm after a battle with nature, primitive and raw.''

Such battles are a young man's game. With Cook, Fairfax went back to the Pacific in the mid-'70s to try to salvage a cache of lead ingots from a downed ship they had spied on their crossing. But the plan proved unworkable, and he never returned to sea.

In recent years, Fairfax made his living playing baccarat, the card game also favored by James Bond.

Baccarat is equal parts skill and chance. It lets the player wield consummate mastery while consigning him simultaneously to the caprices of fate.

- The New York Times



Read more: www.theage.com.au/world/you-couldnt-script-it-world-loses-one-of-its-most-interesting-men-20120221-1tkfb.html#ixzz1myTPOuPA
adolf
adolf
1862 posts
1862 posts
21 Feb 2012 10:19am
Wow,

I don't have to read the Age online anymore - Simondo copys and pastes all the best articles here.

Hey, you missed one last night though - it was on age.tv - but well worth the watch:

http://www.theage.com.au/tv/show/searching-for-michael-peterson/searching-for-michael-peterson-20111219-1p1u5.html
GalahOnTheBay
GalahOnTheBay
NSW
4188 posts
NSW, 4188 posts
21 Feb 2012 8:44pm


Interesting read - thanks for sharing.

The bloke sounds like a complete nutter, but then again most interesting people (and I don't mean today's lame "reality tv" interesting) are in some way
Wollemi
Wollemi
NSW
350 posts
NSW, 350 posts
22 Feb 2012 11:10am
Hey Simondo,

I read a similar article/obituary as well, in the SMH. Amazing character.

If I could take you to task about your thread heading? John Fairfax was a rower, not a paddler. Rowers have their back to the direction they are travelling, and use oars. Paddlers face forward - and use a paddle, usually with a double-blade. Paddlers use kayaks or canoes - these never have rowlocks.

Me? Have kayaked across Bass Strait thrice in the last 5 years. I also have crewed yachts on Sydney Harbour; to get out to moored sloops from Drummoyne or elsewhere, I have occasionally rowed for the owner/skipper, only to be laughed at/chastened for meandering/looping.

Yachties really are clueless when it comes to differentiating between sea-kayaking skills and rowing skills - I guess I have much of the former, but only a little of the latter.

And why do oar handles overlap, allowing for them to meet, and occasionally jam together when I use them? Are they too long for the width of boat (usually a stubby thing seemingly as short as it is wide). Rowers and scullers seen on the Nepean seem to have overlap in their sleek watercraft, too - but I may be mistaken.

GalahOnTheBay
GalahOnTheBay
NSW
4188 posts
NSW, 4188 posts
22 Feb 2012 9:34pm
Wollemi said...

Have kayaked across Bass Strait thrice in the last 5 years.


Woah - that's cool.

How long does it take?
Wollemi
Wollemi
NSW
350 posts
NSW, 350 posts
23 Feb 2012 10:55am
Dec 2007 - Solo from Bridport to Port Welshpool. Stuffed it up of a sort when paddling from Allsports Beach on Flinders Island to the Kent Gp. Took 19hrs to do 85km, finishing that day with a 1am landing amongst 0.5m surf at Winter Cove was terrifying at the time.
8 paddling days, 4 nights on Deal Is., 3 nights on Hogan Is.
Had ridden a landing barge from Victoria to the Tasmanian mainland with only 900 other passengers - they were sheep.

Feb 2010 - with 6 other guys Stanley - Smithton - Walker Island - 3 Hummock - King Island - Oz mainland. Took ages to land on solid blocky rock at Albatross Is with bull kelp lapping at your chest and legs while, but it is a spectacular place to visit. Later left the N end of King Is. at 1830hrs Tuesday to paddle overnight, arriving at Blanket Bay (SE of Apollo Bay) at 1430hrs.
Exciting, serene to be guided by stars and the arcing hue of Melbourne and Geelong (for simplicity - I had 2 GPS units myself). 8 paddling days, 1 (or 2) rest days on King Island.
Two of the guys had no SK experience prior to this trip, and sold their M730 after the trip so they could focus on running again.

Jan 2012 - with 3 others Port Welshpool - Little Musselroe Bay. This is the 'classic' route. Normally 330km (sea-kayakers always talk in km for distances), we did 450km due to hugging all of the S coast of Flinders Island and opposing N coast of Cape Barren Island. The kayak loaned to me leaked a fair bit in 2 of 3 compartments.

January
8 - Drove from Pymble to Port Welshpool via stops in Holbrook, Wodonga, Epping
9 - Paddled Port Welshpool, out of Corner Inlet to Johnny Suey Cove, Wilsons Promontory NP. Briefly met 2 South Australian couples + a daughter kayaking the 'Prom
10 - Strong W winds again. Paddled to Refuge Cove via lunch at the S end of Five Mile Beach. Tore tent. Poured rain. Temperature down to 5 degrees at night.
11 - Rest day. Due to continuing strong winds, we walked to Seal Cove, and met the 5 Queensland kayakers
12 - Paddled to Hogan Island with 4 rain fronts, then wind squalls exceeding 60km/h & seas to 4m+. Snapped a tent pole.
13 - 'Rest' day. Due to strong winds, walked anti-clockwise around Hogan Island. Started to get ill with a bad head cold. Went spear fishing anyway – after 8pm.
14 - Woke with stomach cramps (due to dead penguins in the water?) Paddled to Winter Cove, Deal Island. Queenslanders + triple kayak there
15 - Up 'bout 4. Pretty wasted. Paddled 65km+ to Killiecrankie, Flinders Island, in mainly flat seas. Many seals at Wrights Rock. Hard final push.
16 - Got the cafe to open up. Paddled to Royden Island. Met the 5 Western Australian kayakers. Sand in everything due to strong NE wind.
17 - Paddled to Emita. Visited museum. Paddled to Whitemark with a hard final push due to a SE wind shift. Watched the kelpie shoot pool.
18 - A long breakfast in town. Paddled to Fotheringate Bay. Kayak sailed away alone under the kite... Rural road walk and climbed Mt Killiecrankie
19 - Paddled around Trousers Pt and along the SE coastline of Flinders Island to Lady Barron (village). To the tavern for dinner + shower
20 - 3rd and final rest day. Hitched to Whitemark. Others went on a paddle tour to the Pot Boil + 3 small islands
21 - SE to visit 100 y.o. Wreck of the Farsund. - lost it's bow last year. Paddled shallows and quiet N coast of Cape Barron Island. Went squidding.
22 - Visited the sleepy indigenous community of The Corner; the only township on Cape Barron Island. The shop was closed for the weekend. On to Preservation.
23 - From Preservation Island, kayaked across to Clark Island for final night. Camped on solid granite, with no sand in sight. Bad tennis elbow.
24 - Last day on the water. Paddled on flat seas, then a brief wild fight around E end of Swan Island. Visited lighthouse. Met sole landcrew running across rocks at
Little Musselroe Bay. Drove to Gladstone for a pub meal, and then to Bridport to camp by the flat seaside. A cop stopped briefly to query us there.
25 - Drove to Devonport via a visit to the Low Head Pilot station. Took the overnight Spirit of Tasmania to Melbourne
26 - Hit the Hume.
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