South America

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SMG
SMG
QLD
208 posts
SMG SMG
QLD, 208 posts
5 Jan 2010 4:56pm

I know South America has been covered in previous topics, but.....

Has anyone just recently returned? I'm looking for any tips regarding general travel (not just surf spots).

www.smarttraveller.gov.au has a long list of warnings for specific countries and cities: civil unrest, floodings, petty crime scams, express kidnappings etc.. I'd like to hear from anyone who's had any problems over there in the recent past.

We're off next month: Argentina (Buenos Aries), Brazil (Rio, Pantanal), Bolivia (Jungle, La Paz, Lake Titicaca, Salt Flats), Peru (Machu Pichu, Lima), Ecuador (Galapagos, Quito), Panama, Costa Rica....

Reading Lonely planet guides and scouring internet sites is never as useful as first hand experiences!
kiteboy dave
kiteboy dave
QLD
6525 posts
QLD, 6525 posts
5 Jan 2010 11:00pm
Smarttraveller is pretty useless... if you listened to them you wouldn't go anywhere

Also.. there's nothing wrong with research but when you get there do yourself a favour and DITCH THE GODDAMN LONELY PLANET!!!!!
Sorry to yell but there's nothing worse than seeing scores of sheeple consulting them for every minor decision.

Learn as much Spanish as you can and take some decent maps (or buy them there) and find your way by talking with people instead. Sometime's you'll pick the wrong path but you'll have much more adventure than following the LP trail.

Sorry haven't done any of S.A. but have seen some of the rest of the world.




Mr Plow
Mr Plow
VIC
428 posts
VIC, 428 posts
6 Jan 2010 9:18am
My partner and I were there for 5 weeks in October - most of the time in Brazil, but no major cities other than just transiting through Sao Paulo.

Talking to the locals, the bigger cities are the issue. There is a lot of poverty and therefore desperate people.

In the Pantanal, if you havent organised a trip already, contact Ailton Lara of Pantanal Nature Tours - we went with him on a 5 day Jaguar tracking tour, he has a max of 4 tourists on his trips and we saw pretty much everything there is to see nature wise except for Anacondas.

Another very worthwhile trip is Uakari Lodge in the Amazon - expensive to get to as it is in the middle of the flooded forest - but a true Amazon experience with locals running the show.

For kiting we went to Jericoacoara - amazing place. But be warned that the transport there - which you will need - is expensive.

In Brazil they speak Brazilian Portuguese - but you should be able to get by on Spanish. Personally I know neither - and had no problems - just gotta be good on the charades!

Buenos Aires we had no probs in - just a transit stop for a few nights. When we were there they were having lots of protests and strikes - so leave a few hours when going to and from the airport as blockading the major highway seems to be a favourite tactic. Oh - and enjoy their driving...its something else.
poor relative
poor relative
WA
9106 posts
WA, 9106 posts
6 Jan 2010 1:05pm
About ten years or so ago we spent 6 months in Brazil, Bolivia and Peru visiting those and other places your planning on.

They are insane countries rich in culture and history you are guaranteed a ball.

We had no problems except travelling from Corumba (Brazil) through to Santa Cruz. It seemed someone on our bus had a quantity of cocaine stashed so at a checkpoint the bus was asked to move to a kinda quarantine facilit. We were taken from the bus, women an men seperated. Bus was searched a bribe paid and the suspect allowed back on the bus.
Worst thing was we were the only non-locals and had little idea of what was expected of us or what was to happen.
However tales like this are all part of travelling.

Never went to Rio but went to Sao Paulo massive massive overpopulated and at night bit scary sort of a place. We left preferring the country.
Pantanal is awesome we went with a bloke who was brought up there, he knew everything and we saw heaps of wildlife and a few alligators up too close. Also ate Piranha which was errrr tasty?

Macchu Piccu is awesome do the 4 day treck and expect lots of up the hill days and down the hill days. If your not fit it can be gruelling however the 4 day trek is so worth it.
Don't expect to be alone on the trail, don't expect some sort of spiritual experience. The site is busy the trail is busy. 100's of thousands of people do it every year. However i recommend it. The train journey back to Cusco is wickid if you get a seat!
In Cusco check the local backpacker haunts, often boats are looking for crew to cook/clean in return you can score a free trip round the Galapagos but you have to be literally in the right place at the right time.

Bolivia is an amazing country the Sala d'uyuni (sp?) is unbelieveable hook up a tour from Uyuni cant remember the cost. Scenery is like something out of a moonscape with dusty plains overlooked by massive snow covered mountains and unbelievably cold. I think we got it at -35c and slept on a cold concrete floor.
La Paz is a vibrant alive sort of place they play chess in the median strip on the main road through the city. Its a really social place to hang out.
They also like to protest a lot, whilst majority of these are peaceful sometimes the farmers get really pissed off and fight out a storm.
Lake titicacca is spectacular when we were there ist was sunny and hot however the water is too cold for swimming. Well worth a visit to see the islands, and those floating weed places i forget the name. tho they are a bit touristy.

I guess with travelling anywhere your taking risks, you just need to have your wits about you and not do anything stupid, like buying drugs, smuggling drugs over boarders, getting wasted to the point of "where am i" then walking back to your hotel in the early hours of the morning, especially in Cusco.
LP is handy more for information regarding the history on places you will visit, relying on the book for anything more takes the fun out of it all, meet people ask them get advice. Your fellow traveller is your best asset

If you need more PM me i could go on and on and on and on...........

stamp
stamp
QLD
2798 posts
QLD, 2798 posts
6 Jan 2010 4:01pm
i have done 2 trips in the past 7 years. one for 6 months and one for 7 weeks.
my advice is to throw away the LP. otherwise you will just follow the "gringo trail" with the same group of backpackers. you won't have much of an adventure if you take the easy option.

learn some basic spanish; people are generally more receptive if you have a go at the language, even if you massacre it.

let people know you are not american ("no soy americano"). can't stress this one enough; the yanks are despised universally through much of south america (not as much in brasil).

keep an eye on the news; i got stuck in a full blown week long riot in la paz. not something i would recommend to my worst enemy.

take your oldest, filthiest clothes and leave the jewellery at home. nothing says "mug me" like a gringo in designer clothes and bling. also take a decoy wallet with a token amount of cash and a video card in it. this is what you hand over if robbed.

patagonia is one of the most amazing places on earth (that i've seen) and often overlooked by travellers to south america. and if you can get to ushuaia you might wangle a cheap trip to antarctica. operators will sell last minute spots cheap just to recoup some money.

always smile and look happy when talking to the locals, even if you are ****ting yourself. and don't stare.

lastly don't be daunted by anything you hear, just dive in and do it.....
stamp
stamp
QLD
2798 posts
QLD, 2798 posts
6 Jan 2010 4:11pm
oh yeah, don't rely on the australian government to help you out of a tight spot.
that riot i got stuck in in la paz; i was stranded in a large hostel with many travellers of many nationalities. over the course of the trouble everybody was evacuated out of the country by their respective consulates with a military escort. except the australians and 2 russian guys.
we were told by our embassies to sit tight and see what happens. this was despite running out of food, watching people get shot dead outside, and listening to looters throw rocks at the windows and try to smash through the door.
tatkins
tatkins
QLD
344 posts
QLD, 344 posts
6 Jan 2010 4:58pm
SMG said...



We're off next month: Argentina (Buenos Aries), Brazil (Rio, Pantanal), Bolivia (Jungle, La Paz, Lake Titicaca, Salt Flats), Peru (Machu Pichu, Lima), Ecuador (Galapagos, Quito), Panama, Costa Rica....



Not sure about the above; but surf up in Hawaii!

www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1234047/Surfs-biggest-waves-years-come-Hawaii-North-Pacific-storm.html
SMG
SMG
QLD
208 posts
SMG SMG
QLD, 208 posts
6 Jan 2010 5:27pm

I love that fact that when ever someone tells me their adventure tales of South America I become equally more excited and scared sh!tless

This is all great info guys - keep it coming!

As for the "learn a bit of Spanish" advice - I've got the podcasts making me look a little insane as I listen and repeat out aloud whilst riding the pushie to and from work

@ Stamp - I've been reading alot about not crossing picket lines and avoiding protests... do you remember what caused the one you were stuck in?

@ PR - Do you recall what time of year you were in the Pantanal? Wet or dry season? We'll be there towards the end of the wet, so travel can become interesting! The salt flats look amazing, but as you mentioned, the temp is a bit of concern! We're coming out of the Bolivian Amazon up to 4000ft..... How did you go carrying the extra warm gear??

@ Mr Plow - I'll check out the Pantanal guys, cheers! What city did you access Uakari Lodge from?

@ KB Dave - I've found the lonely planet handy in the past (NZ, Hawaii, Borneo etc..) for finding last minute accommodation, a bit of history and not a bad source if you need to access a quick local translation.. But completely hear your ditching point. We intend travelling low key and of the gringo trail, as long as there's another "safe" option...

Thanks again for the inside info folks - If you feel like writing an easy, I'd appreciate it...PM or post...
stamp
stamp
QLD
2798 posts
QLD, 2798 posts
6 Jan 2010 6:27pm
^^^ in 2003 the bolivian president decided to sell the country's natural gas resources to the yanks and the chileans. the people were so pissed off they called a general strike that gradually escalated into a country-wide riot. it only ended when the president resigned and fled bolivia in a chopper.
Mr Plow
Mr Plow
VIC
428 posts
VIC, 428 posts
6 Jan 2010 9:44pm
Uacari Lodge

http://www.pousadauacari.com.br/Default_en.aspx

Has all the details. You have to get to Manaus - big dirty city in the Amazon, then fly Tefe - small dirty city in the Amazon, then hour and a bit by speedboat to Uacari.

Check out the website - it is as good as it looks believe me.

poor relative
poor relative
WA
9106 posts
WA, 9106 posts
6 Jan 2010 8:49pm
SMG said...


@ PR - Do you recall what time of year you were in the Pantanal? Wet or dry season? We'll be there towards the end of the wet, so travel can become interesting! The salt flats look amazing, but as you mentioned, the temp is a bit of concern! We're coming out of the Bolivian Amazon up to 4000ft..... How did you go carrying the extra warm gear??



We were there in April, not sure what time of year that is wet or dry. I remember that this guy took us to the middle of the bush and we started to set up camp, stringing hammocks up in a clearing that we made however it started to rain and by rain i mean it pissed it down, never seen rain like it, we had to pack up quick and head to an established camp as there were lots and lots of 'red eyes' checking us out very close by. To watch this bloke navigate back to the camp in pitch black conditions with rain pouring down was incredible.

There is also a great trek out of La Paz Tiquizi(sp) trail. Basically you climb to some 4500m then descend for three days eventually landing in the Yungas The change in scenery goes from Barren, cold cloud covered peak to Lush green Rain forest.

We bought a lot of clothes jackets etc as we travelled. Its cheap especially in the markets in Bolivia. I still have a lama wool jumper that i wear in winter today.
Leaving Perth i remember that we packed very little. I guess so long as your footwear is good and you've got whiskey to share your right.

Its funny your post made me go and get our photos and have a reminisce. Thanks!!


Oh and the bus journeys.........
SMG
SMG
QLD
208 posts
SMG SMG
QLD, 208 posts
7 Jan 2010 3:17pm
PR^^
A light pack and buying lama jumpers was my plan... Did you have any trouble getting big enough sizes? They build people a little smaller up at altitude....
poor relative
poor relative
WA
9106 posts
WA, 9106 posts
7 Jan 2010 2:04pm
Nah lots of sizes no problemo.

Learn Spanish. My wife had hers pretty much down, she already speaks two languages fluently so to get the basics sorted of Spanish was reasonably easy enough.
If time is of no importance in Bolivia esp La Paz you can book yourself into a school for a week and have intensive lessons, from memory it was pretty cheap $100 US seems to spring to mind.
Well worth it. or so i was advised
SMG
SMG
QLD
208 posts
SMG SMG
QLD, 208 posts
10 Jan 2010 4:09pm
^^...muchas gracias...

...una cerveza por favor...

...and of course (thanks Stamp)... no soy americano

I think that almost makes me fluent..?
mantis5
mantis5
QLD
159 posts
QLD, 159 posts
11 Jan 2010 9:16pm
what would you like to know about buenos aires. I was there for 3 months apr-july 09) Know the place back to front.

Best steak i have ever had in any place in the world would be

'la cabrera' www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar

www.virtualtourist.com/travel/South_America/Argentina/Distrito_Federal/Buenos_Aires-1541981/Restaurants-Buenos_Aires-La_Cabrera-BR-1.html

or another good one in san telmo is ' desnivel'

www.virtualtourist.com/travel/South_America/Argentina/Distrito_Federal/Buenos_Aires-1541981/Restaurants-Buenos_Aires-El_Desnivel-BR-1.html
SMG
SMG
QLD
208 posts
SMG SMG
QLD, 208 posts
12 Jan 2010 9:48am
^^ Thanks...I'm definitely looking forward to all the food!

Anywhere to avoid in BA? Being a 6ft blonde guy, I've got a feeling I might stand out a bit - should I leave my t-shirt with a target printed on it at home
mantis5
mantis5
QLD
159 posts
QLD, 159 posts
12 Jan 2010 10:41am
wouldnt reccomend 'la boca' wearing a nice watch and carrying a camera!

Your gonna be fine, just dont go wearing shiny things and carrying a big wallet of cash! My advice is when you go out at night be very aware of your surroundings after 10pm. little groups of like 3 young guys tend to do a lot of muggings in Bs As microcentral district and also in San Telmo. ( I got doene twice and laughed it off as they got like 3 bucks!) If your after the best hostel in BsAs then try this one 'america del sur' in san telmo..... By far the best hostel I have ever been to and its more like a hotel really! There is a little red door acorss from the hostel that i thought looked like a brothel.. but to my suprise it was the funkyest bar i came accross in buenos aires. Lost of american and canadian chicks and of course the local argentinian 'portenas' which I'm sure you will like! Arg chicks are a little stuck up but you have to work hard and be polite. Once this is sorted then.. let the fun begin! They are smoking hot.

Its a friendly and cool place when u get used to it. Bit confusing getting around but after 1 week I had things squared away. Learn spanish phrases now. dont be fooled that everyone speaks english because this isn't true.

PM me if you need travel advice or tips on anything else!
nasty
nasty
WA
153 posts
WA, 153 posts
15 Jan 2010 5:04am
am in argentina at the moment (pissing about waiting for the bus, hence the seabreeze). It´s fookin awesome. Try to learn as much spanish as possible before you go. The other tip is to try and get to as many random places as possible. Search for things like local festivals where you´ll get an authentic experience. I was the only gringo in town last night with 1000s partying.

Just remember to always jump in to everything. And a smile will get you everywhere and probably beyond.
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
16 Jan 2010 7:59pm
por favor, gracias, and bounos dias, will get you a long way, had 1month in 2008, with some great sailing at the end. had all 5 kids with us too.
take a few days getting up to Cusco so you can acclimitize. we flew straight in . better to get a bus from closer to lima.
Lima was the only city that was a concern for us(with kids). cusco, machu pichu and the sacred valley was awsome, another week there would be great. some people spend 1 day at Machu pichu, we had 3 days, 5 days would have been just right. we flew over the atacama and the sala de uyuni, love to go back,
might get out the photo album tonight too
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