I love that fact that when ever someone tells me their adventure tales of South America I become equally more excited and scared sh!tless

This is all great info guys - keep it coming!
As for the "learn a bit of Spanish" advice - I've got the podcasts making me look a little insane as I listen and repeat out aloud whilst riding the pushie to and from work
@ Stamp - I've been reading alot about not crossing picket lines and avoiding protests... do you remember what caused the one you were stuck in?
@ PR - Do you recall what time of year you were in the Pantanal? Wet or dry season? We'll be there towards the end of the wet, so travel can become interesting! The salt flats look amazing, but as you mentioned, the temp is a bit of concern! We're coming out of the Bolivian Amazon up to 4000ft..... How did you go carrying the extra warm gear??
@ Mr Plow - I'll check out the Pantanal guys, cheers! What city did you access Uakari Lodge from?
@ KB Dave - I've found the lonely planet handy in the past (NZ, Hawaii, Borneo etc..) for finding last minute accommodation, a bit of history and not a bad source if you need to access a quick local translation.. But completely hear your ditching point. We intend travelling low key and of the gringo trail, as long as there's another "safe" option...
Thanks again for the inside info folks - If you feel like writing an easy, I'd appreciate it...PM or post...