kiter zac said...
........ Have your back lines equal length with your front when the bar is pulled in and your powered up fully.
It depends on the design of the kite. Even different models of the same brand may show differences, like the Slingy RPM and the Rev.
DM posted a very good explanation, now some years back, about tuning a kite... I don't have it but it is worth a search.
When a kite is just about back stalling (but not yet) it has the most exposure to the wind, and gives the best float for a jump (less response to bar movements, though). That point, in terms of bar position, is dependent on where the kite is in the wind window. Deeper in the window, and the more you need to keep the bar out (depower) to avoid the kite flying back. So the bar position which gives the most float during a jump will cause back stalling /( flying back) when you whack the kite across the wind window (bottom turn on waves).
It usually takes a bit of experience to get the most out of a kite, and it may need some tweaking, especially on older models. My Revs, for example, were quite frustrating at first, but the best all-rounders after some mods.
Landing a jump softly will also dependent on speed, that's why to send the kite forward before landing. But that wont happen easily if the kite is just about back stalling. So after a good float fully sheeted, you may need to depower somewhat to get the kite moving.
....in reality it's really simple common sence... in verbal explanation... it's not common, and it may not make sense ..