SmoothRider said..cauncy said..SmoothRider said...
Me too. I love hitting the waves front on just before they break and boosting off them. It's great fun :)
Especially when there's poleys lookin at ya
Flapping the sail trying to get some fuel through
All they see is the bottom of my board
3D terrain is where its at! For me the holygrail is to punch of a wave lip (head high or bigger) in cross on to cross off conditions and then land downlooping on the next wave face ride it down the line. I don't pull it off very often, But when I do...... OH yeah.
Gapping a 2 waves. Taking off one and landing on the down side of the other also Oh for awesome.
In onshore conditions doing a massive boost of a pitching lip gliding through the air and landing back on an unbroken section of the same wave.
I also get a perverse sense of joy punting a jump of a monster white wash. Looking down as glide over the madness below. As I'm doing that I sometime scream at ocean " take that ya farker! ya can't catch me!"