Hey !
Build yesterday in 20 min a base of aluminum scaffolding tubes together. Without welding, only bolts! The advantage is of course very easy to build and super light!
I use the dimensions of a Class5. If the tests are good, I'm going to adhesives most connections. To be continued!
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Today a little further. The dimensions are correct now and extra reinforcement for the mast base and the seat in place. Tomorrow the wheels to the rear axle and the front fork mount.
It's starting to look like a Landyacht !
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Looks pretty good! Kind of like a Manta.
I don't particularly like Mantas but this is cool, so far!
I'd put some blue loktite on all the set screws and not bother gluing the joints?
The second layout is way better than your first pic layout.
That's nice, thank you! 
But not the intent of this Landyacht. I just want to show that anyone can build a good simple moving Landyacht without welding and just in your barn. The construction is very strong and light < 30kilo and easy to carry in the car. I like the size of a Class 5 to indicate that it is not a mini, and so that the proportions are good.
So just for FUN !
I agree! Easy to build, repair and carry as well as strength. Looks potentially stable.
The big plus is there's no welding.
This may be the only "no weld" yacht I've seen that is actually good! (except the "Mini Skeeter, of course).
The only minus might be the expense. I know that tubing and fittings + spares aren't cheap. I hope you have some spares.
Other than that, Deluxe!
How are you going to do the spindle for the rear wheels?
" " front forks?
" " tires and wheels?
A step in the right direction.
I have made two plastic tins on the lathe, with a gap of 20 mm for the axis. The fork is from my Landyacht MK IV.
Unfortunately welding have to be done to make a fork like this .... sorry .... 
Yesterday I put the sail on to see if it's all OK, the following problems have yet to be solved:
-There's too much slack on the fittings, when I pushes the mast sideway's there is some movement in the chassis.
-position of the seat is not good.
So work to do!
I've got the tubes and fittings from a friend, but there are some on Ebay for 50-100 euro.....
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A picture of the rear wheel, I will take a picture of the plastic socket of the rear axle. I started to glue of the fittings for more stability with special metal glue.
After this comes a aluminum plate over with blind rivets.
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Bolt or screw holes through aluminium tube WILL dramatically reduce the strength. If you do intend to drill / bolt through aluminium tube consider putting in a solid packer in the centre of the tube to stop the crushing and also to support the tube now in a weakened state.
There is a lot of downward force at the mast base of land yachts.
I agree with gizmo. Don't drill that spine/keel tube. Use a grub screw or make some lock rings either end to stop it sliding.
If you need anything welded I can recommend Zack who does All types of welding. www.PerthWelding.com
Select to expand quoteKAONAONA said..
If you screw or bolt that fitting you will not be able to adjust your mast angle without seriously weakening the spine. For added security, just add extra fittings either side of the existing unit. 
Is it that it is sloppy? Or does everything seem to kind of twist move around a bit, not stiff?
Being what it is, the only way to can safely put a hole in the spine is to......
1. Get a piece of tubing with the same id as your bolt.
2. Cut the tube 1/8" longer than the spine width.
3. Drill the spine the same size as the od of that tube.
4. Fit the tube spaced evenly in the drilled spine.
5. Weld the tube in place.
6. Finnish with a sanding disc. On aluminum I would use a file before a grinder.
This will support the wall of the spine tube and allow you to bolt anything the spine tube material can handle.
Whether aluminum or steel, it should always be done this way to retain integrity.
This is better known as a spud hole.
Just a thought
As this is a no weld project maybe a product like Loctite produces will secure these fittings. This stuff creeps into small gaps and then sets up hard where there is no air
It can be released by heating with a hot air gun or similar
It comes in various grades and strengths and may work here quite well as there are large contact areas
We use gorilla glue for gluing metal joints and ferules. Not brittle like loktite.
I can't say that I would recommend using glue on the joints for structural integrity on metal. Static applications are fine but with all the twisting and flex I don't know. Maybe scuff it with some 50 or 60 grit emery cloth first. Just seems like a lot of expense for it to not work, and the clean up would be murder.
Select to expand quoteKAONAONA said..
Whether aluminum or steel, it should always be done this way to retain integrity.
This is better known as a spud hole.
Please correct me if I am wrong , but wouldn't the heat from welding the aluminium affect the temper of the alloy tubing and weaken it?
I don't know if it is possible - but if you have a heavier wall thickness ally tube that is an interference [or press-fit] you could freeze the piece intended as the internal reinforcer, and warm up [not overheat] the external chassis tube, swab locktite or similar and push the two together then let the temperature stablise.
When I was "on the mines" we had a product for joining drill tubes, down-hole hammers and similar.
It was called "pipe dope", a 2 pack epoxy adhesive that would only release with the heat of a blow torch.
This stuff would be perfect for gluing aluminium tubes together.
Now.....if only we knew someone in the goldfields who works around rigs...
There are aluminum landyachts that are welded together and none the are glued!
Bolts and welds are made to hold things together, use one of them!
I can't belive we are suggesting he use glue!?!?
Select to expand quoteKAONAONA said..
I can't belive we are suggesting he use glue!?!?
Why not??
The first post in this topic was leaning towards a "no-weld" landyacht, which only leaves bolts, clamps - or glue.
The particular drill rig pipe dope I mentioned can handle incredible stress, vibration, constant hammering and shear forces.
As I said before - we use the stuff on drill tube and hammer joins, so they don't undo and fall apart when the drill string's rotation is reversed while drilling blast holes.
It is easy to work with, [similar in principal to Devcon] and if you know the right people - costs nothing.
Thinking about it - Devcon probably have a similar formulation epoxy which would be available at any industrial engineering supply house.
Agent Mulder, being in the Netherlands, probably has access to a much wider variety of aluminium tube than we do here in Australia - and specialty adhesives and sleeving for greater strength, along with traditional bolts and clamps might just be worth the experiment.
Well it sounds like the compound SN mentioned just might be the ticket and worth a try. Make sure you scuff the surfaces the clean them first.
Clamp together yachts can be easily built, many years ago Bill Finch came up with a clamping system to build yachts with.
Here are some pics of 2 yachts built with the system..... No holes through the frame and easily adjustable.
But these days it would be easy to build yachts with clamps like these and a little creativity...
www.kwikstrut.com/en/catalog/pipe-support/pipe-clips/heavy-duty-pipe-clip/din-3567a/pipe-clamp-din3567a/35670493/g+c+pg+ps+a+nr
A bit further and brought reinforcements and Checker plate.
And this afternoon the first test-ride !
I use special industry adhesive which is also used in the automotive industry for bonding the bodywork on the chassis, seems to me strong enough.
The aluminum tubes I use are quality standard EN AW 6060 T66
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