Imhurrying. I'm downloading 30years of landsailing again,and that takes time

Looks good Paul. I especially like the look of your welds. I wish I could weld that well!

What type of welder are you using?

The compliment for the welds has to go to a landsailor known as John the welder. He was a boilermaking instructor at the TAFE. Machining and cutting were done by Wayne Forbes, Turning instructor. They built 6 chassis before their contracts expired.(The John Wayne series) This is what can be achieved with a few million dollars of idle gear.
You may have noticed that I tend to build with thicker walled steel ,but with little bracing. the steel is easier to get a good weld in and the heavier weight is counteracted by lack of bracing.
On a rough beach ,torn up by bikes and cars, or a paddock, you will get better performance with a flexible chassis than a beafed up stiff one. In a stiff chassis every bump is transmitted up in into the sail and effectively interupts the airflow over the sail. This was the very reason behind the Pacific Magic chassis.

sorry for slow reply, been sailing. the flare is to prevent the mast pipe from cutting into the softer mast and eventually breaking it.
I do it with a ball peine hammer on an anvil, but you could do in a good solid vice , its easy

landyacht said...

sorry for slow reply, been sailing.

Yeah, I suppose you're going to tell us you were competing in the world championships or something

Its taken me ages to find on of those large axe things and now I'm keen to see why you made me buy it!

great info from Sandfly:

Howdy Paul and all,
You talked of frame warping through welded areas. Weld areas can be relaxed by using your oxy torch to stress relieve the area. Welding, particularly MMA (stick) causes the steel to shrink, creating great stress in the weld zone. There is also the change in chemical structure (austenite, martensite, boundary layers/transition zones, yar yar yar!).
Using the torch to heat the weld and surrounding area fully to a nice bright red, before oxidizing (burning) will give you home grown weld area stress relief. Let air cool do not quench, do not cool too fast in air either. It is important to be sure the weld is heated fully through. This will help keep the frames true, another benefit is the potential for less or nil cracking in the welded joint when used over many years and rough ground.
As an aside, welding has damaged some of the zinc protection on the Galtube, a little more flame damage wont hurt.
Commercial crayons are available, which change colour when applied to a heated surface, to let you know exact temperature. As you know when tempering, stress relieving are performed commercially it is done to precise formats. The oxy torch at home works well for us.
Your jigged frames may benefit from relieving before removal (whilst still clamped). Weld stresses are still applied, and even though the frame is held rigid during manufacture, on releasing the frame may still take on some twist or warp. Though yes, it will be less than if made free hand.
When an assembly is twisted or warped the judicial application of heat, and water to heated areas can dramaticlly change the shape or straighten a bent object or assembly. Applying water to a heated area shrinks the steel. You may be amazed at the size of steel members which can be transfomed by this method.
If you get the opportunity to watch or talk to a REAL panel beater, when he is working his craft on a vehicle made from real steel, not the modern vehicle HSLA steels you will get my drift.
Cheers

Sorry everyone for the posts in the non-post topic. I've deleted mine from the construction thread and thankyou for posting it here. Hope I didn't cause too much frustration.

landyacht said...

or not

oops sorry... Hey great welding there Paul

Really liking what I am seeing there Paul. I assume CADIW on the drawings means "Computer Aided Drawing I Wish".

Having a little bit of trouble distinguishing plan view, side view etc on drawings but I guess it will become clear when compared to photos.

Great effort mate and thanks for sharing it with us. I'll learn from your mistakes because I don't think I will live long enough to make them all myself.

Did you see what that Hillsy stuck on my forehead. When I catch up with him he is going to get a wet and slimey XXXX label stuck right on his forehead and I'll pour a couple of bottles of it down his gullett too. That South Australian Cooper's has got lumps in it but XXXX goes through you like barbed wire, hence the label. Keep up the good work bloke. Cheers Cisco.

Yeah right!!

Hi Paul .. if you are in need of some CAD software check out this..and download the FREE version.

www.cadstd.com/

Its a simple FREE Cad program and works very well, still not as creative as a pencil on the back of a beer coaster but the results from the Cadstd are GREAT.
I have used it on several jobs i have done.

Brian

thanks Giz ,when I have time I will spend a bit of time playing with it

Paul.
What is the outer axles made from (is it internally reinforced) and is there much flex in it?

gizmo1160 said...

Paul.
What is the outer axles made from (is it internally reinforced) and is there much flex in it?

That will be in my next building post, gizmo gunjumper. ITs 30x30x2mm galv. no internal reinforcing.Because the main beam twists you dont get the jolts/knocks like in the old days. we have yet to bend one of them axles.
best test was 110kg pilot + yacht vs toyota camry with side bar protection. winner was the landyacht .
at the moment they wont keep up with a cl 5 but the best sails we have are sailboard recuts. there is still huge room for development . The reason for the wheelbase dimensions when we started the class were so that we could race a blokart and not be told that we won because we were wider,longer,etc.
I built a yacht a couple of years ago I called a MIDI . Between a Mini and a 5. It simply left a 5 behind in any wind, and was a dream to sail. I cut it up so that other club members wouldnt start altering their minis. within a few months. we had 4 new minis being built. lessons learnt from that design led directly away from the fold up minis to the MINI EXPLORER

So Paul with ALL that SPARE time on your hands ...how you going with the CAD program?
ps. I will cover my ears when you scream *#@%$*.... cos i reckon i will hear you from here!!!!!