Technical Tips -- Seals

> 10 years ago
Reply
Register to post, see what you've read, and subscribe to topics.
Kody
Kody
QLD
190 posts
QLD, 190 posts
19 Apr 2008 11:21pm
It looks like I'm out on my own again and worse, I have no ice cold coffee (will soon rectify that situation).
Seals:
They come in hundreds of types and sizes. There are the all metal types down to the humble all leather ones. From sophisticated modern "plastics" to the carbon/ceramic high temp kind. A slight pause here as the author is in dire need of some bovine refreshment, served icy cold and coffee flavoured. ---paused--waiting-waiting!
Ok, all set.
There is a heap of info to be found on the www. about seals and their relevant drag. Some articles have shown lots of data and submitted results that display exactly what you hope to find. ie, good if you want good results, bad news if you want bad news. So where is there something that is relevant to our cause? The answer lies in how much hope you are trying to find and why. Even a drowning man will clutch at floating straws, or so I'm told.
Perhaps the first question should be, what does a seal do? Does it have a fishy breath?
A seal is used for just two basic reasons, The first is to keep dirt and crud out of the precision "inards" of the bearing. The second is to keep the lubricant inside where it belongs. In performing these "simple" tasks, a seal may have to withstand enormous heat, freezing cold, sand and grit blasts and simple human error. (Simple human error???)
Slurp-slurp,, (Oh no, he's doing it again!)
Most of us use the common Deep Groove Ball Bearing (BB) for our L/Y wheels. These come in the form of fully sealed (a seal on both sides), partialy sealed, (a seal on one side) or fully open, (no seals at all)
They also come with Shields, again, in the same manner as above, ie. a shield on both sides or on one side only. A seal is made from a "plastic" material and presses on the surface of the inner part of the raceway. It presses in with some fair amount of pressure. Try holding a new fully sealed bearing in your fingers and rotate the inner race. It's quite tight! The bearing is also pre-packed with grease and this adds extra drag to the bearing as well.
It's totally diferent with Shields. Shields are made from thin metal (steel usually) and simply clip into a groove in the outer race. The shield does not ever touch the inner race or rub on it. There is a definite gap between the shield and the inner bearing. This non-contact means there is no drag on the BB whatsoever apart from the lubricant. It also means that if oil is used to lubricate the bearing, it will be forced out and the bearing will eventually run dry. This is bad news for the BB. The gap, even though it is small, will also allow sand and dirt etc to enter the BB. This is also bad news for the BB. What you do about it depends on what you are prepared to put up with or accept. Some people will run their bearings with rattles and crunches and wierd sounds and wont be in the least bit concerned. Others will employ the latest scientific means to keep the bearings in perfect condition and in a perfect environment. (sluurp! cough-cough, sluurp!)
For my own use, I will be using a seal at one end of my hub. The other end is closed off with a cap. The best (?) seal I can find is one that is called a "Wave-seal". This seal has two parts. One part wipes the shaft in a sine wave style of pathway and the second part brushes away the dirt and crud. The second part does not touch the surface of the shaft so does not add more drag to the rotation of the wheel/hub/bearing assembly. The wave seal also has about 30% less drag. (What I cant find out is, 30% less than what!?)
There are many other types of seals, Fur seals, Artic seals and one of the very best is the labrynth seal. This seal has no touching or rubbing surfaces so there is no added drag. It would be my first choice but the seal opperates in a reverse manner. The rotating part is fixed to the shaft. On our L/Y's, the shaft is fixed or stationary. This type if seal can spin at 10,000 feet/minute. Great stuff.
There is of course a down side to fitting seals, they bite and dont like people touching them? The seal I will be using, is a separate entity to the bearing. It needs to be fitted along side the bearing within the hub itself. This means that the hub/bearing assembly must be custom designed and specificly built for the purpose at hand. So now we are back to where we started from. To utilise anything that is just even slightly different to the "norm", a lathe is again required. What a pain this this is! I think I will go and feed the seals to the Orcas!!!
Hey! where has that bovine gone??? I need some more icy cold!

It doesn't matter what you finish up using or how you do it. The bottom line is this: Enjoy what you do and have fun with the family when doing it. Life is too short and precious for anything else.

FYI
A common type of bearing is a "6204" this is an open bearing, no seals or shields.
A "6204 Z" has one shield.
A "6204 ZZ has two shields
A "6204 RZ" has one seal
A "6204 2RZ" has two seals.

Kody

cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
20 Apr 2008 2:50am
Aha, You have definitely given us the guts on seals and bearings there Kody.

Did you hear about the baby seal that walked into a club?

A point we all need to consider is that with all or most machinery, bearings are a sacrificial item. The machine will continue to function efficiently without damage to the rest of the machine provided the bearings are replaced at predetermined intervals. Fsst, glug, glug.

So the big question for us LYers is "What is the predetermined interval?".

The question can not be answered without further information such as, type and quality of bearing used, environment, budget and desired perfomance. Glug.

This creates what might be called a spectrum, one end of which might be, "When the wheel won't turn any more I'll replace the bearings.", and the other end might be, "I want to win these races, so I wil replace the bearings between each race.". Glug,glug.

A sealed bearing will have more drag and TEND to keep out foreign particles longer and therefore give reasonable performance and TEND to last longer. I have had new $35 stainless sealed bearings spoiled by ingress of foreign particles on their first use and had $3 steel sealed bearings withstand 6 months of heavy use before contamination.
Further, when the grease in a stainless bearing is replaced with light oil there is a tendency of the metal to spawling as happens between a 316 stainless nut when screwed onto a 316 stainless bolt under load.

A single side shielded bearing supplied with total loss lubrication from the unshielded side will have minimal drag and not be contaminated due to the washing effect of the lubricant. Impossible or impractical to achieve a constant supply of lubricant with a land yacht, but possible to supply sufficient for a race of short duration by half filling the cavity between the bearings prior to each race. Fsst, slurp. R&C.

Another good thing you mentioned is hub caps. I have seen this done on a LY by using silicon adhesive to attach a plastic cap from an oil container or similar to the wheel over the axle end and nut without touching them. By doing this, with a single side sealed inner bearing and open outer bearing (both with grease washed out), the cavity between bearings half filled with light oil, there should be sufficient lubricant for a whole race meeting. An added benefit is the reduced drag of the seal (from the Bearing Straights) caused by the gradual egress of the lubricant from the tween bearing cavity. Slurp Ahh.

But it is like you say Kody, if it is fun and with your family, fantastic, if not why bother??

P.S. When "Cisco" the yacht is at Rosslyn Bay, she will have aboard the ingredients for "Sombreros" and you can sail her all the way to Keppell and back. Cheers Cisco.
Please Register, or first...
Topics Subscribe Reply