Welding with any form of arc does have its specific problems. All these problems can be overcome given time and skill. Skill is probably the hardest thing to aquire. Is there an alternative way to join the metal parts? Yes there certainly is and it's easy to do and has some big advantages. I wrote somewhat of this within a previous post but I thought I should explain more of the process in detail here.
The alternative process is called by the common name - "Brazing". However, this is not brazing persei (sp?). The correct term is Bronze Welding. It is performed with an oxy acetylene torch, flux and a very special filler rod. The rod is known as "Nickel Bronze". Nickel bronze is made from copper, nickel and some tin and has a couple of other elements mixed in to improve its "wetting" ability. This stuff is immensley strong and tough. If a "weld" is broken, it is the parent metal that often fails first and the bronze remains undamaged. This is NOT welding but the process is usually refered to as "Brazing". Such a term is very misleading. Brazing refers strictly to the use of a BRASS filler rod. The most common brazing rod is known as "Combond". Never use this stuff on your car or where you want super high strength. Combond is made from copper and ZINC plus a few other elements, again to aid "wetting" and capillary action.
Strictly speaking, Bronze Welding is not true welding. Welding actually melts the filler rod and the parent metal, ie, the metal/s being joined. Because the Bronze is bonded with the steel, the term Brazing is used but it's a horrid term to use.
There is another metal that consists of nickel and copper. The nickel is 60% (or more) and the copper is 40%. It is called Monel and is tremendously strong and tough, as good as some of the hi-tensile steels. It also comes at a price.
The big advantage of using Nickel Bronze is that the heat input is cut by at least a third. Even though a large area may be heated, the dissipated (lower) heat helps to reduce distortion as a whole. Large fillets can be built up with ease and mistakes can be melted away, but dont overdo the melting. It is still important that close fitting joints be made as this greatly reduces the heat input and will give a superior joint that looks very professional. The molten bronze bonds with the steel and gives excellent results. However, too much heat and intergranular penetration of the steel can occur. This is not good but can be easily recognized by the bronze burning/vapourizing and smoking. With everything working correctly, the molten bronze looks like molten gold. It is essential that correct goggles be worn when using this technique. The flux has a high sodium content (?) and gives off an eye killing ray of light, not to mention the oxy flame itself.
An oxy set is easy to use BUT you do need to know ALL the safety principles and how to use it correctly. Once you have used an oxy torch, you will wonder how you survived without one. If anyone wants to try this out, definitely get someone who is
qualified, to show/teach you how it's done. From joining steel with nickel bronze, its only a small step to welding with the oxy set. To attach all the ancillary bits and pieces to the frame, nickel bronze welding is definitely the first choice to do it.
So what are the bad things about nickel bronze? Only ferrus metals can be joined, it is no good for aluminium.
The bad things about oxy acetylene use is,-
1, Oxy acetylene will give you the worst burn you ever saw, ever had.
2, Oxy acetylene will give you the worst burn you ever saw, ever had.
3, Oxy acetylene will give you the worst burn you ever saw, ever had.
I think there is a message there somewhere!
Kody
), coastal marine engineer (I'll keep your poxy engine going, but when we get to port, don't ask me to fix it. [}:)]) and worked on the Maui Gas Pipeline in NZ for two years as a stove pipe welder (that is a boilermaker with his brains knocked out). He makes a lot more money than a boilery though.
