Attaching wire cable to dyneema?

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stonedpirate
stonedpirate
WA
248 posts
WA, 248 posts
24 Oct 2013 9:08pm
Hello,

I have some 6mm dyneema rope that will be replacing my rope/wire halyard.

I watched on youtube how a guy replaced his old rope halyard with a new one by joining the 2 ropes with fishing line and using the old halyard to pull the new one up and through.

Can anyone think of a way i can do this with wire and dyneema?

Without a way of doing it i will have to drop the mast which i dont want to do.

Thank for any advice :)
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
25 Oct 2013 12:39am
You do not have to attach the dyneema to the wire. You need to attach the dyneema to the tail of your current wire to rope halliard at the rope end. Stitch them together with sail twine, wrap the joint with insulating tape then pull it through from the wire end.

Come on mate. That should be fairly obvious.
Len76
Len76
VIC
208 posts
VIC, 208 posts
25 Oct 2013 1:45am
You've BOTH lost "me" lol
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
25 Oct 2013 12:48am
Stick with it and you will learn.
Len76
Len76
VIC
208 posts
VIC, 208 posts
25 Oct 2013 1:52am
cisco said..

Stick with it and you will learn.


Yep, I will! :)
MattM14
MattM14
NSW
190 posts
NSW, 190 posts
25 Oct 2013 1:50pm
Cisco I have often read your posts on here and thought you had a great depth of knowledge of most things sailing but you have just confused me. Highly possible I have got this whole thing the wrong way around so apologies in advance.

But ....

If you were to attach the new dyneema to the rope end of the existing halyard and pull it through (ie pull it up and out the masthead by pulling the wire end) won't that mean that when you get that join back on deck after going up and out the mast you will be holding the dyneema (rope) end with the wire end of the new halyard at the mast? ie the wrong way around?

I am assuming that the wire end should be the bit that attaches to the head of the sail such that when the sail is hoisted the rope/wire has been pulled through to the winch so that halyard stretch is minimised while the sail is up and the rope end (easier on the hands whilst hauling it up) is the tail?

Again maybe I have misinterpreted something that should be obvious (it's been known to happen).

On a related note - If you are using Dyneema rope for a halyard is it still necessary to have the wire spliced onto the end? I thought the attraction of the new ropes like Dyneema was that they negated the need for this and therefore saved on weight aloft?

See Len76 - I've been sailing all my life and still learning
Karsten
Karsten
NSW
331 posts
NSW, 331 posts
26 Oct 2013 1:56am
Agree with MatM14 - you would not need wire at all when you employ dyneema for the halyard - so, full length dyneema.
HaveFun
HaveFun
NSW
201 posts
NSW, 201 posts
26 Oct 2013 11:17am
I think Cisco is suggesting you discard with the wire/rope combos and eliminate the wire and the need for splicing altogether. Synthetic technology has progressed to the point where there are a range of synthetics to suit every budget and need from no expensive spared max racing performance to relaxed long cruising. So ditch the wire. I did. Save the trouble of splicing a rope end to a wire and eliminate the nuisance of slack wires flapping and marking the mast.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
26 Oct 2013 10:37pm
As I understand it we are talking about replacing a wire to rope halliard wit an all dyneema halliard. So what I was talking about was pulling the new halliard through the mast via the exit slot in the mast near the winch or turning block.

It's all clear as mud just like everything else on a yacht.
stonedpirate
stonedpirate
WA
248 posts
WA, 248 posts
27 Oct 2013 10:18am
Cisco is correct in that i want to replace a wire/rope halyard with a full dyneema halyard.

The reason i thought i couldnt do it his way is because of a stopper that prevent me from pulling the rope through once the rope reaches the top and i didnt think the thick rope would fit in the sheave for 4mm wire.

I will see if i can remove the stopper next time i'm down there lol, seems so simple now haha :P

Cheers Cisco
LordRumpunc
LordRumpunc
NSW
60 posts
NSW, 60 posts
2 Dec 2013 3:16pm
Some turning blocks are designed / shaped for wire (when under load) Check that the block is cool with the dyneema.
spongeblob
spongeblob
NSW
218 posts
NSW, 218 posts
2 Dec 2013 3:35pm
And this is why I dig this site.
You learn something new and useful everyday (some good days every 2 hours).
nswsailor
nswsailor
NSW
1458 posts
NSW, 1458 posts
2 Dec 2013 5:17pm
LordRumpunc said..

Some turning blocks are designed / shaped for wire (when under load) Check that the block is cool with the dyneema.


I'm also about to replace the rope/wire combination on my Top Hat Stonedpirate and we are pretty sure that we will have to replace the blocks.

Planning to do this early in Jan 2014 and will report result on the Top Hat site; www.tophatyachts.com

cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
3 Dec 2013 1:11am
nswsailor said..

LordRumpunc said..

I'm also about to replace the rope/wire combination on my Top Hat Stonedpirate and we are pretty sure that we will have to replace the blocks. sheaves.

Planning to do this early in Jan 2014 and will report result on the Top Hat site; www.tophatyachts.com



There fixed it for ya.

MichaelR
MichaelR
NSW
862 posts
NSW, 862 posts
3 Dec 2013 9:22am
I did the replacement on my Top Hat, using Cisco's method. The Masthead sheave on mine was fine with 10mm Dyneema, although I had now way of knowing until I tried it. When the mast came out two years later, the rigger confirmed that most later model Top Hats had sheaves suitable for up to 10mm braid. The actual sewing of the new line to the old line took longer than pulling it through and attaching a shackle with a bowline!

Sew the new line to the rope end of the old halyard, grab the wire end and pull until you have the Dyneema in your hand. Easy.
nswsailor
nswsailor
NSW
1458 posts
NSW, 1458 posts
3 Dec 2013 5:36pm
Thanks Cisco,

Seems my Mk 1 Top Hat may need new SHEAVES but stonedpirates Mk 2, or was it a 3, should be OK!
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