I fitted a new Raymarine EV100 wheel autopilot on the weekend. Pretty easy to install and all is working well.

However the motor sticks out a long way forward from the wheel. As my traveller is mounted to the front of the helm, the wiring loom will last one good gybe before getting shredded. I visited Raymarine this morning and asked about a right angle power lead adapter, but I got blank looks in return.

I am planning to install a helm guard loop bracket next week, so possibly could fabricate a piece of aluminium between the uprights to cover the motor end. Might be a bit ugly tho.

Any other suggestions?

Can you mount the motor 180 degrees rotated so it is a the top of the wheel rather than at the bottom?

Jolene, I have barely enough room to stand behind the wheel at present, but will give it some thought.

Yara & Datawiz, yep it does have another spigot hole which will put it half way up on the port side. At the moment, the traveller car main block just slides above the lead without touching. I am concerned that a loose rope above the block will loop on the motor if it is higher mounted. The manual warns that a higher mounting may also interfere with the compass. Does it interfere with your compass? Do you have a helm mounted traveller?

Will move into the other spigot hole and re-assess next weekend. Might also do as Jolene suggested and put in a couple of spacer washers as well (note to self, the spline is keyed so notch the washers).
It will need some protection, no matter where it is with the traveller that close.

It appears that the motor and wheel assembly have changed slightly since the ST4000+. It is now a 2 pin plug and is certainly quieter than a few Raymarines I have heard in the past.

The fluxgate is mounted on the end wall (inside) of the quarterberth near the end of the traveller, so it is away from any major power sources.

The existing analog compass (40 years old and showing it) is coming out, to be replaced on the helm tower by a dinghy style TackTick. I have found previously the TackTick is very sensitive to interference, an external speaker on a previous boat caused it no end of problems. A 'proper ' analogue compass will be on the bulkhead, but with my fading eyesight, it is a bit hard to read in lowish light.

Is there any room to move the traveller forward? You may only need an inch or so for there to be better clearance for the guard

I think this is one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-RS-555SH-12V-6000-RPM-High-Torque-Motor-5-Pole-Hobby-Motor-3-17mm-/282166221183

The guys at Yachting World did the hard work

www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-457828.html

It looks like the Evolution uses the same motor as the ST 4000+

www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-457828.html

Mine is grey too and has two pins. It should be possible to get a right angle plug to connect to the pilot, or even connect the power leads individually to each terminal. Up to you.

cheers

Phil

Kankama said..
I think this is one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-RS-555SH-12V-6000-RPM-High-Torque-Motor-5-Pole-Hobby-Motor-3-17mm-/282166221183

The guys at Yachting World did the hard work

www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-457828.html

It looks like the Evolution uses the same motor as the ST 4000+

www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-457828.html

Mine is grey too and has two pins. It should be possible to get a right angle plug to connect to the pilot, or even connect the power leads individually to each terminal. Up to you.

cheers

Phil

Ringle, Unable to move the traveller, other than to the other end of the cockpit. Which then causes it's own logistic problems. In front of the traveller is the hatch for the outside locker. Alternative is to have a Spectra loop as a raised traveller (similar to a Laser), but that will be down the bottom of the list I think.

Thanks for the links Phil. I also found this link which gives details of pulling apart and assembly of the motor.
svjohannarose.blogspot.com.au/2015/12/replacing-burnt-out-wheel-autopilot.html
Also here is the manual for the ST4000 www.defender.com/pdf/4000-service_manual.pdf

After reading that article, I may just solder some power cable directly and put an anderson plug or similar at the entry point to the cockpit. And still add a guard across the rear of it.