Boat electrics

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MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
28 Apr 2013 6:58pm
A couple of weeks ago I had an intermittent problem that the starter motor wouldn't turn. Turn the key, ignition lights came on but nothing from the starter motor. After trying to start I then didn't even have iginition lights.
It came good on its own and worked normally for the rest of the day.

Last weekend I had ignition lights but no starter motor. Try as I might using all batteries it didn't come good. I found a 30 amp fuse that had corroded badly and didn't have a spare (lesson there).

On Wednesday I replaced the fuse. It still wouldn't crank. With further investigation I found the screw-on battery terminals were loose. I tightened them all up. I then found I could start on the No2 (house) batteries. Still nothing on No1 battery. No1 would run some accessories but after a short time the voltage dropped from 13.0 to 12.6.

I took a spare starting battery up today. Didn't need it. She cranked and started perfectly on all batteries.

My guess is that No1 battery wasn't fully charged on Wednesday because of the loose terminals, despite reading about 13v. With a week of the solar panel charge, this weekend it was charged up.

Any advice on potential other problems?
Disralei
Disralei
NSW
127 posts
NSW, 127 posts
28 Apr 2013 10:31pm
Hi MorningBird

Had a similar problem a couple of years age, turned out I had a loose terminal fitting on the alternator earthing strap that was mounted to the engine block. damn thing drove me crazy trying to find the problem, local Auto electrician spent quite some time and money before I blogged the problem and some one came up with an answer. turned out that it had happened several times on other Beneteaus.

Good luck
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
29 Apr 2013 12:48am
Like Dad said to Dave when Dave told Dad that Mabel was smoking.

"I told you to use plenty of Vaseline!!!"

I wouldn't leave shore without at least one jar of it. It is a conducting grease and battery terminals love it.
Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7757 posts
NSW, 7757 posts
29 Apr 2013 9:06am
Have a look at the rotary switch if you use one. The contact plates can come loose and instead of making and breaking stick together. They can do this sometimes and not others so appears as an intermittent problem.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
29 Apr 2013 5:33pm
Thanks gents. I'll check both suggestions and put Vaseline on everything.
I really dislike electrics. The symptoms don't let you know what the real problem is.
LooseChange
LooseChange
NSW
2140 posts
NSW, 2140 posts
29 Apr 2013 6:56pm
cisco said...

I wouldn't leave shore without at least one jar of it. It is a conducting grease and battery terminals love it.


Here are the dielectric ratings for some common substances (including Vaseline). The higher the number, the greater the conductivity. Note that Vaseline is typically less conductive than rubber or wood, and slightly more conductive than Quaker Oats.

VASELINE 2.2-2.9
RUBBER 3.0
WOOD, DRY 2-6
ETHYL ALCOHOL (77° F ) 24.3
GERBER OATMEAL (IN BOX ) 1.5
GLASS (SILICA ) 3.8
NEOPRENE 6-9
PAPER (DRY ) 2.0
POLYVINYL CHLORIDE 3.4
SAND (DRY ) 5.0
WATER (68° F ) 80.4

Sorry to say, but Vaseline is NOT a conducting grease
MichaelR
MichaelR
NSW
862 posts
NSW, 862 posts
29 Apr 2013 7:22pm
Vaseline may not be conductive, but it will protect your terminals and help prevent them from corroding on the mating surfaces.

Don't forget your starter solenoid connections and the high tension cable to the starter, and the starter earth.

Some people also leave their battery terminals finger tight. This is simply asking for trouble. They must be tight and have a good mating surface. Check all your connections to the starter and make sure they are clean, tight and have a star washer to help the connection and to prevent them loosening.

There are some good proprietry sprays that put a lovely blue coating on the terminals, which won't wear off quickly, which is what Vaseline will do in the end.

One thing, don't be afraid of electrics. There are many positives about electrics, but just as many negatives
Charriot
Charriot
QLD
880 posts
QLD, 880 posts
29 Apr 2013 8:51pm
Sorry to hear all your trouble, my deep condolences.

I don't like changing headsail...cure.... install fuller.

Guess the same apply to electric.
1/ monitor voltage (digital panel meter $3.50)
2/ voltage value is relevant when load is present /at least20W/
3/ if solar panel with cut off working OK, than voltage goes just over 14V
4/ when contacts are clean and tight apply SILICON grease only ( water repellent )
/ silicon spray first and grease on top /
5/ only grease usefull around engine is water pump grease, maybe there is new product,
too hot, normal grease melts and drips /useless to use it/
6/ ask those, who spend whole life around positives and negatives.













Karsten
Karsten
NSW
331 posts
NSW, 331 posts
1 May 2013 2:41am
MichaelR said...


There are some good proprietry sprays that put a lovely blue coating on the terminals, which won't wear off quickly, which is what Vaseline will do in the end.




Not sure this is the same thing, but I'm looking for a spray that will coat an electrical connection (eg. terminal strip or open air screw-on connection) to seal it from the salty air and slow down corrosion.

I have tried Lanolin spray, but it is sticky and a magnet for dirt. So looking for something that will form a "dry" seal around the connection.

Should also be removable (maybe via a solvent) in the event you need to work on the connection.

Anyone here know of a product that will suit? Thx.
Charriot
Charriot
QLD
880 posts
QLD, 880 posts
1 May 2013 8:24am
All wire ends,circuit boards and connection in harsh environment are spayed with
Conformal coating. In fact, it is thin layer of clear lacquer.
I use silicon grease with little brush, even on caravan, sockets, plugs.
Guess aceton paint, brush on does the job.


Circuit Board Lacquer Spray Can
Non CFC Ozone safe propellant. Premium quality flexible coating to protect printed circuit boards from humidity and environmental attack., Jaycar $11.50

Modified Silicone Conformal Coating
Modified silicone conformal coating specially formulated for the protection of electronic circuitry to meet defence and aerospace industry requirements
Once cured, it is resistant to a wide range of solvents, lubricants and cooling fluids
Excellent resistance to mould growth UV light and to prolonged tropical exposure/salt spray
Low oxygen permeability
Tropicalised
Provides excellent in-service protection for circuitry and PCB's at a typical coating thickness of 0·025-0·05mm
Clear coating is approved to DEFENCE

Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7757 posts
NSW, 7757 posts
1 May 2013 8:38am
Karsten,
Always arrange connections with a loop down away from terminals so that any moisture runs to the bottom of the loop and drops off, something professionals seem to be not aware of, make the cables just a bit longer.
I don't have any corrosion problems or dirty terminals because they are in positions that stay dry but if I was to spray something it would be silicon spray. Mainly because I carry it for other jobs.
Lanolin spray is good for items like engines that are in bilges with water sloshing about, spray when the items are hot. Most yachts have a sump well clear of the engine and moisture is kept away from the engine.
saltiest1
saltiest1
NSW
2575 posts
NSW, 2575 posts
2 May 2013 8:57am
heres a long shot.
get someone to turn the key, and give the starter a tap with a hammer. they can stick.
BlueMoon
BlueMoon
866 posts
866 posts
2 May 2013 7:50am
saltiest1 said...
heres a long shot.
get someone to turn the key, and give the starter a tap with a hammer. they can stick.



You might of got it there Salty!,
Symptoms certainly sound like the bushes in the starter motor, used to have to carry around a long pole to give the starter motor a few taps on the old HQ before I started it.

cheers
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