Has anyone had any experience with this product? Silicon based, biocide and copper free.

www.hempelyacht.com/en-GB/product-list/silic-one-page

cisco said..
Their blurb looks good on the main page. The silicon idea sounds like it might work which is what prop speed is all about.

If you are due for a slipping, why not contact them, tell them you are on seabreeze and ask them if they will front you the paint for a promo on the forum??

Prop Speed works fairly good on anything that moves fast eg propeller, but not so good on slow moving things such as skegs and rudder shafts. I have Propspeed on my under water lights and I am lucky to get 6 months. This silicon stuff might be better suited to high speed power boats, cold water and boats that are used regularly.

cisco said..
Their blurb looks good on the main page. The silicon idea sounds like it might work which is what prop speed is all about.

If you are due for a slipping, why not contact them, tell them you are on seabreeze and ask them if they will front you the paint for a promo on the forum??

Yes not a bad idea Cisco, wouldn't hurt to have a chat. Also, if they can't point me to anyone in southern Tas who has used the product, then that would be a good opening for what you suggest.

Used to sell Hempel so got a price for my Etchells.
After stripping back all the old anti foul and primer, $800 was the wholesale price ???? plus probably a sandblast or similar to prep.
Added to that, it has no shelf life once opened, so if you but 8l and use 6l, you waste 2l.

2bish said..

rumblefish said..
Used to sell Hempel so got a price for my Etchells.
After stripping back all the old anti foul and primer, $800 was the wholesale price ???? plus probably a sandblast or similar to prep.
Added to that, it has no shelf life once opened, so if you but 8l and use 6l, you waste 2l.

Sorry rumble, missed this post of yours. Yep that's sounding crazily expensive..what are you using btw?

I used Hempel Olympic Hard and found it good for the price.
Boat would get pulled out a couple of times a year for a light scrub so even with 2 coats there wasn't much left at the end of the season

Hi Shaggy

I found a couple of articles that gives a explanation although on the subject of what works on a boat on a trailer the first two contradict each other

www.bottompaintstore.com/blog/bottom-paint/difference-hard-bottom-paint-ablative-bottom-paint/
www.yoti.com.au/antifoul-hard-or-soft/
www.yachtpaint.com/sgp/diy/ask-the-experts/antifouling-made-easy.aspx

Regards Don

shaggybaxter said..
This is an interesting topic. What is the consensus regards antifoul hard or soft compounds for say racing a racer cruiser for SE Qld?
I went for an ablative antifoul last time, and I don't really see how ablative can be slippery compared to hard.
I must be missing some fundamentals. Could anyone classify when ablative and non ablative compounds are used and what for?
Thanks in advance!

Very difficult to get empirical evidence of antifouling efficacy. I have previously used International Ultra. Last slipping one of the biocides in Ultra was unavailable and international had reverted to Longlife, both hard antifouling. I mix 8 litre of white with 4 litre of black for a light Beneteau grey colour. (I see that longlife has now been superseded by Ultra 2). Australian antifouling paints are limited to 385gm/litre cuprous oxide by regulation. I may have turbocharged my antifouling this batch with the addition of 100gm/ litre cuprous oxide. Aim is to get a 2 year slipping cycle. Previously could get that from the bottom paint but the Saildrive leg Trilux coating wasn't even good for a season. As a corrosion engineer and anode manufacturer I have dispensed with the Trilux and use the same Longlife on the Saildrive leg. I do monitor the corrosion potential of my leg and use a booster anode when in the pen to extend the life of the ring anode. Propspeed if well applied is good for 2 years.
Initially I sponge wipe the bottom regularly. Then scub with white scotchbrite pad, again keeping the slime off is a big help to longevity of antifouling.

frant said..

shaggybaxter said..
This is an interesting topic. What is the consensus regards antifoul hard or soft compounds for say racing a racer cruiser for SE Qld?
I went for an ablative antifoul last time, and I don't really see how ablative can be slippery compared to hard.
I must be missing some fundamentals. Could anyone classify when ablative and non ablative compounds are used and what for?
Thanks in advance!

Very difficult to get empirical evidence of antifouling efficacy. I have previously used International Ultra. Last slipping one of the biocides in Ultra was unavailable and international had reverted to Longlife, both hard antifouling. I mix 8 litre of white with 4 litre of black for a light Beneteau grey colour. (I see that longlife has now been superseded by Ultra 2). Australian antifouling paints are limited to 385gm/litre cuprous oxide by regulation. I may have turbocharged my antifouling this batch with the addition of 100gm/ litre cuprous oxide. Aim is to get a 2 year slipping cycle. Previously could get that from the bottom paint but the Saildrive leg Trilux coating wasn't even good for a season. As a corrosion engineer and anode manufacturer I have dispensed with the Trilux and use the same Longlife on the Saildrive leg. I do monitor the corrosion potential of my leg and use a booster anode when in the pen to extend the life of the ring anode. Propspeed if well applied is good for 2 years.
Initially I sponge wipe the bottom regularly. Then scub with white scotchbrite pad, again keeping the slime off is a big help to longevity of antifouling.

Frant, I just love you. That's great info, thanks.

Stockie said..
Shaggy, I have switched from Jotun ablative to Micron 66.
last year was terrible in our area, Port Hacking for fine shell growth. The boat was a mess after 12 -months and I use mine regularly. So far the 66 is looking very good regarding fouling but only 4 month in! I know this is going to sound snake oil, but I am sure the boat is faster through the water, than when the Jotun was first applied in 17
66 is very ablative, more than Jotun, so be carefull wiping it down. Where I have Trilux, near the rudder bearings it is fouled already, sail drive a prop are prop speed and look great.
interesting what Frant is saying.
cheers Richard

HI Stockie,
I'm glad to hear it, thanks! It's interesting, I think Im seeing the same. Going back and looking at the results since slipping, our light air performance improved since I changed from the previous hard French product (banned in Oz for its toxicity).
I thought the Micron, being an ablative, would be worse in light airs, but my results appear the opposite.

I have a diver dive the boat every month for the race cycle, so it will be interesting to see how long I get compared to Frant's 2 yr target. I'm hoping for 18 months.