First what a great forum and thanks to all contributors as a newie to sailing I just lean so much just from the posts

Just to bring you into the picture I have just purchased a nice old 30 footer that has been sitting around for a few years unused hence about a foot of rain water has collected in the hull making every thing mouldy inside. Some one suggested to use 30seconds mould remover which I did worked a treat however yesterday in my spare time looking though old posts one post suggest not to use any chlorine or Bleach type products as they destroy the fiberglass not sure what's in 30 seconds brand looks like a trip to the Pool shop for some Anti Chlor to neutralize the inside against possible destruction the part I cannot get my head around is lots of pools are made from fiberglass

Not trying to repeat my same mistake I need to remove some mould from the outside as well as cut polish and wax the hull any suggestion on products for the 3 jobs any help much appreciated

Ramona Can you help as I will be taking here down to JB soon

Hi Obsession

I am going to make your day, send me your E address and I will send you a copy of how to buff your boat so that you can brush your teeth using the hull for a mirror. However, should you hull cause other boaties to have accidents from the glare coming off your hull I will not be responsible

As for your mould problem, attached is a little pillow reading for you.

Re: Getting Rid of Mould


Bleach does not work on mold. Both EPA and OSHA have published papers on that fact. It will not kill spores and will act as a fertilizer for the remaining spores. Also, it has the added benefit of being extremely toxic for humans.
I am in the mold remediation business and there are safe products available to kill and prevent mold growth.


An EPA document/advisory against the usage of 'bleach' for mold remediation for 'consumers' is: EPA 402-k-02-003 especially - www.epa.gov/mold Your 'connection' to the EPA from this document will probably provide the source data.

Mold and Mildew remediation by the EPA recommendations avoids the usage of bleach. Such has been a standard in the BioPharma Industry for about 30+ years where the 'general' disinfectants are quaternary ammonia, or H2O2+peracetic acid, etc. and/but 'caustics' are preferred because they dissolve the mycelium cells or result in cell lysis (break open). The usage of 'laundry bleach' has long been known to only kill/stun the current infection and if the dead cells are not removed, those cells/fragments merely become a nutrient source for successive/other mycelium species infection.

BTW - 'black spots' on exterior fiberglass are usually 'artillery fungus' (Sphaeobolus Stellatu) which can penetrate deeply into gelcoat, especially if the gelcoat has become porous. Only way to remove is to dissolve it with caustics but it may leave 'shadows' deep within the porosity. 'Artillery fungus' is widespread in high humidity 'forested' areas or areas that use lots of 'mulch' that is made from ground-up hardwood or tree bark. Artillery fungus can also penetrate polyethylene and other permeable 'plastics'.

Good luck

Hi Disraeli, great gov pdf, as a house painter have been using chlorine water mix for years as a cheap alternative but mould does return. Have a problem house ceiling in an old Qlder which we,ve tried traeting, and finally sealed with zinsser stop stain .
Will be investigating further into the document to try to find the best system for mould and mildew, especially in asbestos.
As for a nice shiny hull can you e mail me your boat buffing technique.
Cheers
Ken

Disralie
Thank you in advance for your time and unsurpassed knowledge
You have an e mail to read