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MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
13 Apr 2016 9:37pm
Gents, I need a spare set of hands to hold a spanner on the pulley bolt on the front of my engine while I undo the gearbox flange nut to get at the gearbox seal.
Is anybody around Salt Pan Cove Pittwater on Friday? Maybe an hour to get it apart? Fit the new seal and retighten.
zilla
zilla
145 posts
145 posts
13 Apr 2016 9:09pm
Can't help in person because I'm in WA but I can suggest a way of doing yourself.
Put a ring spanner on the front pulley belt, extend the ring spanner by placing a piece of pipe over it. Ensure the ring spanner slides snuggly inside the pipe. Adjust the length of pipe (slide it up and down the ring spanner) so it jams somewhere and there you go. Attack the gearbox flange nut while the other end is held fast.
HG02
HG02
VIC
5814 posts
VIC, 5814 posts
14 Apr 2016 12:48am
I also some time fit a flat bladed screw driver into the ring gear teeth if you organize it it will lock in place on my boat any way. I rotate the fly wheel till the screw driver is locked it . It may not work in your boat .
Zilla is on the money
slammin
slammin
QLD
998 posts
QLD, 998 posts
14 Apr 2016 6:05am
Like hg said but I prefer denim, either folded or a where there is a seam according to tooth size.
HG02
HG02
VIC
5814 posts
VIC, 5814 posts
14 Apr 2016 6:35am
^^ + 1
MichaelR
MichaelR
NSW
862 posts
NSW, 862 posts
14 Apr 2016 7:57am
MB, I could meet you early arvo. But I don't always get PMs, so

Michaeldotrichmondatiinetdotnetdotau will get me. We can trade phone numbers and work out a good time.
Jolene
Jolene
WA
1624 posts
WA, 1624 posts
14 Apr 2016 6:27am
It's usually best to hold the part you are undoing, holding the nose bolt in the crank you may undo it first and sometimes the energy to undo is lost though out the motor.
Is it possible to put a bolt back in the flange and put a spanner on that bolt and position your spanner so that it rests under the socket in the center. Jam it against the floor. Use blocks of wood and a pipe extension to position it, or you might just be able to hold it.That spanner will oppose the force you are using to undo it.



MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
14 Apr 2016 9:11am
Yep, I can do many of those things but somebody holding the spanner is much easier and effective. I have jammed the spanner previously and damaged some timber in the process. I don't have an exposed flywheel and the flange nut is recessed so there are no protrusions to lock onto so is not easily locked as Jolene suggests, although that is what I do on my car engine.
Thank you all for the inputs.
I'll send you an email MichaelR.
ChopesBro
ChopesBro
351 posts
351 posts
14 Apr 2016 9:43am
If I was close by...it would have been a pleasure
kurt88
kurt88
NSW
147 posts
NSW, 147 posts
14 Apr 2016 4:48pm
Hi MB I can help im free from 11am
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
14 Apr 2016 8:17pm
Thank you all. Michael and I have been on the phone and plan to team up at 1300 to do the job. All are welcome to come over and raft up. It could be that I can watch you guys fix it for me.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
14 Apr 2016 9:08pm

You better have some coldies in that huge fridge of yours.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
14 Apr 2016 10:08pm
cisco said...

You better have some coldies in that huge fridge of yours.

Mate, you're alive. Hadn't heard from you for awhile, thought you might have gone to ground or been banished to Second Wind by the missus.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
15 Apr 2016 8:56am
MorningBird said..

or been banished to Second Wind by the missus.


I should be so lucky.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
15 Apr 2016 5:46pm
With MichaelR's superb help I replaced the output shaft seal on the gearbox and fixed that oil leak. It was an important leak to fix as the gearbox doesn't hold much oil and with constant motoring it would have run out pretty quickly.

Unfortunately once that one was done after a test drive we found there is another oil leak, this time it looks like the rear crankshaft seal. I overfilled the engine a little bit at the last service, with the engine angle in the boat it should only be filled to half way between the dip stick top and bottom marks and it is about 3/4 of the way up. That might exacerbate the leak at present.

It is a pretty big job to replace that one. I replaced it when I bought the boat and had the engine at home for a rebuild. Probably a 10 hour job in the boat but at least with a centre mounted engine you can get at the bell housing to get it off. One for a mechanic if I bother doing it.

The sump holds 4.5 litres so it will take a long time for that leak to cause a major issue. It is easier to top up the oil, put a disposable nappy in the bilge and clean it out than replace the seal. When the gearbox needs an overhaul I'll do it.

Has anybody any experience of those oil additives that act on rubber seals to reduce/stop leaks?
LooseChange
LooseChange
NSW
2140 posts
NSW, 2140 posts
15 Apr 2016 5:51pm
MorningBird said..

Has anybody any experience of those oil additives that act on rubber seals to reduce/stop leaks?


I believe "Snake Oil" is the term you are looking for. They will do a very temporary job and after that leave you with a bigger leak than you started with.
Do it once, do it right.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
15 Apr 2016 6:25pm
LooseChange said...
MorningBird said..

Has anybody any experience of those oil additives that act on rubber seals to reduce/stop leaks?


I believe "Snake Oil" is the term you are looking for. They will do a very temporary job and after that leave you with a bigger leak than you started with.
Do it once, do it right.

That is my understanding but I thought they might be better now. It isn't practical fixing the leak yet. It is an annoyance more than anything and doesn't affect the boat's seaworthiness.
LooseChange
LooseChange
NSW
2140 posts
NSW, 2140 posts
15 Apr 2016 6:45pm
The chemical in the goop that cause the seal to swell will only work as long as it is present in a quantity sufficient to cause said swellage. When it loses effectiveness the seal contracts in size but without the mechanical properties that allowed it to seal originally. Snakeoil!

Do it right, do it once. Quality is cheap
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
15 Apr 2016 6:56pm
I did it right 11 years ago. When I do it this time I'll do it that way again.
Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7756 posts
NSW, 7756 posts
16 Apr 2016 8:08am
Still using mineral oil? Synthetic and modern mineral oils can leak. Best is to stick with the low grade recommended grade of mineral oil the engine manufacturer recommends. Might have to go to a tractor place to get it. I would put in the snake oil. Cheap and will do no harm, it just rejuvenates the seals a bit. If you have to add 10 bucks worth of snake oil twice a year till you peg out still beats pulling that gearbox to get to the rear seal.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
16 Apr 2016 9:34am
If it gets bad enough I'll consider that option Ramona. I'm all for keeping it simple and a bit of an oil leak that doesn't affect seaworthiness is a minor problem. A few sheets of paper towel cleans it up.

I was thinking about it again last night and I'm not sure it is from the engine. It could also be the gearbox input shaft seal. I topped the box up after Michael and I changed the rear seal so I'll know when I get back up to MB, if there is clean oil in the bilge it is coming from the box and it will be from the input shaft seal or maybe the gear change mechanism. As the engine angles down the rear seal is the lowest point so the oil level gets down a long way. The other potential leaks are higher up so will retain a higher oil level.

In the meantime I can use MB, if I find the time between looking at houses. We are homeless in 3 1/2 weeks.
Bruski068
Bruski068
VIC
457 posts
VIC, 457 posts
21 Apr 2016 11:27pm
Whilst you have your boat you may be houseless, but you will never be homeless
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
2 May 2016 6:16pm
A bit more research and I am pretty sure the leak is from the gear change shaft. I am told it is just a couple of O rings, but I have been told I need to be careful not to drop the piece inside on the shaft which will fall into the gearbox if it does come off. Anybody have any experience with gearbox gear change shaft removal?

The house move is next week. A bit sad to be leaving our home of 22.5 years but not sad to be leaving Chatswood. Asian neighbours are good neighbours, but if we wanted to live in Hong Kong we would have moved there.

Still haven't found the next house so will be renting a friends 2 bed apartment in Summer Hill while we keep looking. I will apply for a mooring in Five Dock Bay this week.
kurt88
kurt88
NSW
147 posts
NSW, 147 posts
2 May 2016 8:14pm
hi mb good luck finding a new place. I know chatswood is super busy these days.


Are you talking about the gear shift selector shaft?

i would ussaly use a small flat blade and or a pick set for removing seals being very care full not to damage the metal surface

is it a simple o ring or a seal with a metal ring around the inside
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
3 May 2016 8:13am
Two O rings I have been told. I was thinking of removing the lever and taking the side plate off leaving the shaft in place.
Alternatively, I could buy a pack of disposable nappies and soak up the small amount of oil that escapes!
kurt88
kurt88
NSW
147 posts
NSW, 147 posts
3 May 2016 5:28pm
I guess it depends on how bad the leak is, if you can capture the leaking oil and keep it toped up you can postpone it.

aluminum roast tray's are great for drips too

another idea you could heel the boat over a little on the side the seal is so gravity is on your side the oil will want to flow out of shift lever minimizing the chance of it falling in
get a syringe filled with gearbox oil, lube the outside and carefully remove the shaft/leaver while keeping it lubed up

generally those o rings go hard and shrink they usually sit on a beveled lip and don't just fall of unless spit

I think it would be more likely that the 2 O rings have shrunk rather than both splitting
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
3 May 2016 7:20pm
h28kurt said...
I guess it depends on how bad the leak is, if you can capture the leaking oil and keep it toped up you can postpone it.

aluminum roast tray's are great for drips too

another idea you could heel the boat over a little on the side the seal is so gravity is on your side the oil will want to flow out of shift lever minimizing the chance of it falling in
get a syringe filled with gearbox oil, lube the outside and carefully remove the shaft/leaver while keeping it lubed up

generally those o rings go hard and shrink they usually sit on a beveled lip and don't just fall of unless spit

I think it would be more likely that the 2 O rings have shrunk rather than both splitting

Good advice. I do believe the O rings have just gone hard and shrunk. I need to talk with the Sole distributors when I pick the O rings up about how it is dismantled. I'll get him to draw a diagram.
Heeling the boat in the direction that will minimise the risk of the piece falling off whatever it is attached to is a good idea.
It probably leaks 20ml an hour, maybe 25ml. Not a lot.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
3 May 2016 9:09pm
MorningBird said..
Two O rings I have been told. I was thinking of removing the lever and taking the side plate off leaving the shaft in place.
Alternatively, I could buy a pack of disposable nappies and soak up the small amount of oil that escapes!


Buy the nappies. I might need them next time I go sailing with you.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
3 May 2016 9:31pm
cisco said...
MorningBird said..
Two O rings I have been told. I was thinking of removing the lever and taking the side plate off leaving the shaft in place.
Alternatively, I could buy a pack of disposable nappies and soak up the small amount of oil that escapes!


Buy the nappies. I might need them next time I go sailing with you.


Bring your own Cisco. I need any spares for when I get frightened.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
8 Jun 2016 6:25pm
h28kurt said...
I guess it depends on how bad the leak is, if you can capture the leaking oil and keep it toped up you can postpone it.

aluminum roast tray's are great for drips too

another idea you could heel the boat over a little on the side the seal is so gravity is on your side the oil will want to flow out of shift lever minimizing the chance of it falling in
get a syringe filled with gearbox oil, lube the outside and carefully remove the shaft/leaver while keeping it lubed up

generally those o rings go hard and shrink they usually sit on a beveled lip and don't just fall of unless spit

I think it would be more likely that the 2 O rings have shrunk rather than both splitting

It was the rear engine seal.
I got some roast trays and they work fine. 4.5 hours motor sailing today and there was about 5ml of oil with a bit of water in the tray. It doesn't sound like much oil but when it mixed in the bilge water it makes a mess.
The trays are a far better solution than lifting the engine, removing the box, fixing the seal, refitting the box, replacing the engine and aligning the shaft.
A great day on the water today except for the baby poo brown water.

sirgallivant
sirgallivant
NSW
1531 posts
NSW, 1531 posts
8 Jun 2016 9:26pm
Well done MB. Where did you get your mooring?


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