Normally, without the boom bag, you would just finish off the tail end of the reefing line with a timber hitch around the boom.

Yes they do need to be watched as they can come undone , when not under load, so some people therefore opt for a bowline.

Not being a fan of putting too many holes in the one place on your boom, as you could create a "weak spot", I would be thinking about having a small cut out made in the bottom of the boom bag.

You already have a main sheet bolt, and the reefing block, so you would be drilling another 2-4 holes close by in the other side of the boom.......


Keep us posted what you decide to do.

Cheers
Rick

FreeRadical said..

Doesn't look like you'll get much foot tension in the main with that setup, the block you are using is too close to the reefing eyelet.

Better to run your reefing line from the end of the boom (or that second turning block maybe - how strong is it?) then up through the eyelet and straight back down around the boom with a timber hitch as super says. That way, you'll get reef and outhaul tension.

I was about to say the same thing. Make a hole in the lazy bag which you can run the bitter end through and then around the boom with a bowline. The other end should feed through the boom outhaul fitting which usually has provision for 3 lines ie outhaul and no1 reef and #2 reef. The setup that you have will not flatten the foot and will simply not work as a reefing system.
Otherwise you could try to run the #1 reef back through the block a bit further aft on the boom.

Thanks for the feedback.
As per the above suggestions, I have a hole in the boom bag on one side which is level with the eyelet so I will only need to get another on the other side. I will tie a bowline around the boom run it on the other side up to the eyelet and then down to the aft most block. From here back up to the jam cleat on the boom. Sound ok.

The reason why a timber hitch is preferred to a bowline is that a timber hitch is easier to undo and cannot jam like a knot. On the 54 footer I race on the timebr hitch is used and I have followed this on my Northshore 33 after I replaced the roller on the boom that was fitted when I bought it with a conventional boom and sail. Has never failed. That said I looked at this issue some time ago and came across this article in Cruising World. . Whilst the author explained the benefits of the timber hitch over the bowline (as above) and especially in winds over 50 knots, I was puzzled to then read "When you reef, the load on the line prevents the timber hitch from coming undone, and it can never bind on itself. It should be noted that using a timber hitch for your reef lines won't work on a flat-sided boom-you're stuck using a bowline." How many modern day booms are other than flat sided, mine included! The photograph in the article certainly looks like it has flat sides yet has the timber hitch.http://www.cruisingworld.com/how-to/seamanship/the-timber-hitch

Bowline around the boom only for reefing lines. Never come undone while you are sailing without the reef in and have never seen a bowline that couldn't be undone by hand. and supersonic wtf is with a skipper running the 3rd reef line when the 3rd reef was needed? or did the timber hitch come undone?

Supersonic27 said..

frant said..

Bowline around the boom only for reefing lines. Never come undone while you are sailing without the reef in and have never seen a bowline that couldn't be undone by hand. and supersonic wtf is with a skipper running the 3rd reef line when the 3rd reef was needed? or did the timber hitch come undone?

It was during a S2H......and the boom end only had 3 sheaves, one for the outhaul and 2 for reefs.

The very experienced owner preferred to put in a 3rd reef rather than set a tri-sail........the story gets better, not long after, we lost the rudder, spent 2 days adrift, and then 2 days under tow back to Eden.

I often use a mouse line with and leave the reefing lines retracted back to the boom end if I don't want to have the "heavy reefing" lines flapping on the leach. No way someone should be sent up the leach in 50 knots just to run the reefing lines.

I always sail with 3 reefs rove. Reefing lines come around the bottom of boom and attach with a bowline to the fitting under the turning block. Check out the Seldon PDF on rigging reefing lines.

Took this photo of my boom this morning. The rope right at the rear is the first reef, turning block on the other side. The turning block on the traveller is reef number two. On the other side is another slide and turning block further forward for reef number 3.
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