Sole Mini 14 engine - oil change

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Reddog64
Reddog64
NSW
55 posts
NSW, 55 posts
22 May 2016 10:45pm
Hi folks, I want to give this engine an oil change and it has one of those small manual pumps at the back (with virtually no room to pump it). No oil is coming out of it when I give it the best pump I can (couple of minutes). So now I think I need to unscrew the sump nut but it's real hard to get to (who installs engines to really tight spaces???) Can't get it undone and can't remember if I need to screw it clockwise or counter clockwise to get it off and drain the oil.
Can someone confirm which way to try and unscrew the sump nut?

Cheers
Bushdog
Bushdog
SA
313 posts
SA, 313 posts
22 May 2016 10:39pm
To unscrew the oil plug, it has to go anticlockwise. Imagine you're lying under the sump, looking up at the sump plug. It has to be unwound anti clockwise.

However, your existing non working oil extraction pump likely taps in through the sump plug. Removing the sump plug could complicate your problems.

I've got a Sole Mni 23. The fitted pump works, but because the motor in mounted on an angle, oil collects toward the back of the pan, nearest the gearbox. I use a manual vacuum pump (eBay) with a line that fits down he dipstick hole to get the oil out. Change the oil filter at the same time. A Ryco Z411 will fit.

Get hold of a manual. For every couple of degrees angle off horizontal, the oil level has to be 1mm above the dipstick full line. Check how much oil your motor takes, use some engine oil flush, Darwin, then fill it with the required volume of oil.
MorningBird
MorningBird
NSW
2711 posts
NSW, 2711 posts
23 May 2016 8:18am
I have a Mini 23, probably older than yours, and my manual doesn't mention the extra mm on the dipstick line with the engine at an angle. I have probably been under filling as I fill below the line.
Where is the dipstick hole on yours, about the middle fore and aft on the engine?
Bushdog
Bushdog
SA
313 posts
SA, 313 posts
23 May 2016 8:28am
It's likely our engines are if similar age as it seems the Mini 23 became the Mini 29. On mine, the dipstick is on the aft end of the engine block, about 50mm from the rear of the oil pan. I have a copy of the owners handbook that details how much to adjust the dipstick measure according to varying engine angle. The boat's moored in McCarr's Creek but I'm out near Yass. Handbook's on the boat but I'm happy to scan info and send to you next week. On my Adams 31 the correct oil level is about 10mm above the dipstick full line. With a centre mounted engine, MB is likely to have less of an angle?
Bruski068
Bruski068
VIC
457 posts
VIC, 457 posts
23 May 2016 9:18am
Engines are designed by engineers to really p*ss off mechanics, nothing is ever easy to repair on an engine by design, in the end of times engineers will be hang right after the lawyers.
LMY
LMY
NSW
203 posts
LMY LMY
NSW, 203 posts
23 May 2016 9:47am
Bruski068 said..
Engines are designed by engineers to really p*ss off mechanics, nothing is ever easy to repair on an engine by design, in the end of times engineers will be hang right after the lawyers.


I am pretty confident none of the tradies will get hung, not because they are as white as driven snow, but because there will be work required to arrange the hanging. We all know you can never find a tradie when there is work to be done!

PS, I am an engineer. The dipstick shows the oil level on a horizontal engine, install the engine included and you will need to change the level on the dipstick, seems pretty simple to me.
Bushdog
Bushdog
SA
313 posts
SA, 313 posts
23 May 2016 9:40am
The engineers who designed oil pans specified to rust out will be hanged first. As MB noted, dipstick location will influence the reading.
I read the handbook, measured engine angle off horizontal, re-marked the dipstick full line accordingly, and have since checked this when refilling oil with the specified volume.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
23 May 2016 12:32pm

Unfortunately there are very few marine engines with properly designed sumps that allow the oil to be drained from the lowest part of the sump. Therefore they accumulate an ever increasing concentration of sludge in the lower part of the sump which just is not good.

Oil changes are best done immediately after the engine has been run up to temperature and most of the sludge is in suspension in the oil. The down side of this of course is that you have to deal with HOT oil.

A good idea if you can get at the sump and remove it or if you have the engine out is to modify the sump by fitting a drain at it's lowest point. This may mean drilling the sump and threading a fitting to take a metal line forward to an easily accessible point where you will have a stop cock with a plug on the outlet side.

I think the Beta marinised Kubotas come with a sump pump set up this way.
Reddog64
Reddog64
NSW
55 posts
NSW, 55 posts
23 May 2016 9:48pm
Hi Gents, some good responses (Thanks) and great humour. I'm learning the pain element in boating around wasting a few hours of your time with an engine and getting nowhere (that's the none money expended pain). Happened to me yesterday, jobs lined up and nothing worked. Went home in defeat and it sucked.

Bushdog
"To unscrew the oil plug, it has to go anticlockwise. Imagine you're lying under the sump, looking up at the sump plug. It has to be unwound anti clockwise">>> Thanks Bushdog. Noted on the oil collecting at the back of sump. Makes sense to me now. I will chase up a manual vacuum pump from eBay (what's the name of it?) and run it after I run the engine a bit. Will do the oil filter at the same time. I think my motor is 17 degree's off horizontal but will check and notch the dipstick accordingly.

MB the dipstick hole on the Mini 14 is on the left side down low about half way back (right behind the oil filter so it's extra hard to get at...because life is just way too easy)

Tradies/Engineers/mechanics...someone has to hang! I need a midget to help me work on this thing.

Cisco good idea re: sump metal line with sea cock but too much for me. Will try the manual pump from eBay and keep looking for a midget mate to befriend.

Appreciate your comments. I'm not normally mechanical and this is my first yacht (and it's cheap and I'm a tight arse) but I'm enjoying the learning curve and challenges so far and I hate to get beaten. Someone needs to write a book with the collective boat knowledge and experience of blokes like you.

Cheers
Bruski068
Bruski068
VIC
457 posts
VIC, 457 posts
23 May 2016 11:54pm
yep you unscrew the sump plug in an anti-clockwise direction just remember righty tighty, lefty loosey for all your bolts, there is exceptions to this rule but lets not go there.
Bushdog
Bushdog
SA
313 posts
SA, 313 posts
24 May 2016 4:01pm
Hi MLC, I've used a PELA oil extractor, the 2.5 litre model. About $80 on eBay but Whitworths have them on special for $40. The 6 litre model is about $140. Once I've used the extractor pump attached to the engine, the PELA gets another 500ml out. If you're using it as the only extractor you'll likely have to empty it mid oil change, but that's no major drama. They suck the oil out through a 1-1.5mm line, so it's not fast.
Reddog64
Reddog64
NSW
55 posts
NSW, 55 posts
26 May 2016 8:53am
Thanks Bushdog, that is handy and what I need. Just to confirm all I need is the PELA oil extractor, the 2.5 litre model?
Happy to stop and empty it mid change and start again to finish it off.
Do you attach the PELA extractor to the Dip Stick hole or oil cap at the top of engine?
Thanks mate.

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