South Ace and some one else fitted these and I would like to know how happy every one is with them and where to buy

I want 1 1/2 ball valves and skin fittings and tails all 1 1/2 BSP and hose tails 38 mm two of each
Question How easy is the ball valve to turn

radar said..
we are happy with ours HG, easy to turn ,no electroysis worries
road teck marine are stockists, our local one has the full range

I'm having a little trouble after I rang them but I think I need to drop by and sort it out.
Id like to find out the price of the monitored ball valves. Would like to wire up the sea cock so the engine wont start with out the sea cock open. I guess that would be some thing else to go wrong
Last time I went RTM on a weekend I was determined to get a electric bilge pump plumbed up I ended up with reducers and reducers and also of stuff just to get the hose to the out let . its going when I get the time to fix properly .
Unless I get excaltly what I need I wont buy it I don't think there a full range where I go yet Ill see
Just the part numbers quoted and they also gave me the true design part numbers didn't match up with the true design web pages part numbers.

All I was worried about that there easy to turn

My 1 1/2 s/s ball seacoack I fitted 7 years ago was stiff from the start ......cheap chinese crap from whitworths. I'm now looking into using all chemical treated plastic valves on my wooden and FRP vessels.

HG02 said..
From the True design web site PDF web site you epoxy the skin fittings in place

Hi H.G. just replaced one valve etc.,with a new Tru-Design skin fitting, 90 deg. bend, 32mm valve and hose tail last slipping. All are epoxied together, the skin fitting is recessed and epoxied in. I finished up getting them direct, they weren't happy, and said next time order through one of their retailers but allow extra time before you slip the boat. This is for the holding tank so it will get a fair bit of use. I have another 11 to change so if this works well then I'll definitly be changing them all, they say they guarantee them for life, so you should never have to change them? I read about them on another forum and those that had installed them were very happy, so far for me 3 months down the track no problem. While I'm at it I absolutely love what your doing to "Driftwood" and would dearly love to see her when she's finished. I have a soft spot for them as I raced on the old timber ones as a young boy and keenly remember tacking back from Lion Island in a southerly buster with just a mizzen and headsail, they were very wet boats though but seemed to handle whatever was thrown at them. Anyway hope this helps and keep posting those pictures, regards.

that will work every time HG

radar said..
that will work every time HG

Radar question for you
I want to fit a larger inlet seacock the original is 1 inch . I want to add two other out lets the head and also a deck wash pump so I thought 11/2 I.D. inlet would give me more input flow to compensate . I cant really see all three would be use all at once but the deck wash and my old Bukh would I think the Bukh would use 17 liters maximum revs so motoring toward a anchor washing the chain the amount of cooling water would be reduced to at least half that if not more.

radar said..
have seen quite a few boats with this done, only 2 skin fittings to worry about
inch and a half will supply more than enough water for that job
we have two one inch skin fittings ,inlet supplies toilet and deck wash,
outlet for gravity drain of holding tank works great

Would I be better fitting two one ich skin fittings rather trying to make the engine cooling system and deck wash and head coming out of one inlet.
or one 11/2 to do all three
I dont think the engine would use 10 liters in a minuet and the deck wash is 20 per minuter I cant see Ill ever use all three at once the engine uses more than the 10 liters but thats at full revs 17 liters ( probably less )
The water pump is 3/4 full at sea level
Wish I knew the formula to work the flow out

I would not even consider sharing a sea cock for more that one thing especially the motor sea water. Most equipment suppliers demand an seperate sea cock. If this is such a good thing why do all boat manufactures install seperate sea cocks. There are a number of reasons why they install individule cocks, which I am not going into now. I have just fitted soft wood plugs to all 24 sea cocks on my boat. Hanse have one area that has about 10 sea cocks all side by side including the motor intake. It would be a lot easer to install one big sea cock but is is just not done. The last thing you want to do is cook you motor. Go and talk to Bukh and see what they think.

I don't know if they still do it, Amel yachts in La Rochelle only used to have one water intake on the hull.

Question head inlet and out let on opposite sides on the hull would be best can you compromise or not?

HG02 said..
Question head inlet and out let on opposite sides on the hull would be best can you compromise or not?

Are you hoping for a cross flow head?