Jolene said..
If I recall correctly the pitch range is different for reverse . That range is swapped from left to right rotation by advancing or retarding a number of gear teeth on the hub when the propeller blades are in a known position,, hence the left and right timing marks on the hub. Basically by the sound of it the relationship between your stops and your blade angle is out , whether it's rotation confusion or just something that was overlooked when the prop was last assembled.
Thanks. I am certain the relationship of the blades to the stops is fundamentally wrong, as the stops have had to be set at their absolute limit to get close to a decent pitch. You can see what I mean from this piccy. Ignore the position of blades as they are not on either stop in this piccy. It's clearly a crazy amount of adjustment. Hence the need to pull the prop off, dismantle and try to figure out whats wrong with the way it's assembled.
By the way, per the discussion of the gearbox earlier in the thread, the forward ratio on mine is 2.14 and reverse is 2.50.
Based on my amateur calculations, for a pitch of 10 inches, the blade angle needs to be 11.5 degrees, which at engine revs of 3200 and shaft speed of 1495 rpm, with a16 inch prop will generate 6.9 knots of boat speed at 44% slip. 3200 is the max continuous rpm for the 3HM. The slip's a guess, and given with the adjustment shown below, the boat has got close to 8 knots, I'm guessing the slip in practice is less, even tho' a chap at Austral Props suggested it'd be closer to 50% or more. My boat is an Adams, which are generally easily driven, so I suspect the slip is less than for some others.

Below is a cutaway from the Autostream Manual. The stops limit the rotation of the prop body on the shaft, which in turn limits the extent to which the blade sprockets (and so the blades) get turned by the body sprocket. This makes me all but certain the blades are one or more teeth (probably more than 1) out of alignment relative to the body sprocket. If so, this can be remedied by disassembling the prop and rotating each blade by a tooth at a time, until I get them as near as possible to the right pitch (11.5 degrees) while having the pitch adjustment screws in the middle of their range. That will be the coarse adjustment as it has to be done in whole teeth, then the screws can be used to achieve the fine adjustment.
I'm inclined to have the pitch the same forward and backwards, to the extent that's possible, as the the lower ratio of the gearbox in reverse will soften this a bit. It is nice to be able to pull up quick by hitting reverse, if necessary. A side benefit of all this is de-pitching should also reduce the amount of prop walk (it's been operating more like a paddle wheel at the pitch it's had!).