rynot55 said..
Hi fellas
Don't mind yus hijacking my thread, really interesting on the tablets. Might be some people missing out though because they don't give a rats about dissimilar metals!
After getting the old cast fitting braised twice and it still leaking (grrr) I have made up a fitting out of a combination of plumbers bits, gal 3/4" tee that screwed into the motor ok. In the other end the anode fitted nicely (with a bucket load of thread tape!) . The top of the tee has 2 brass nipple reducers to fit the stainless 90* bend that the hose fits on.
Should have taken a photo! So have galvanised metal ( so called), brass and stainless. Any thoughts on hazards here??
Will keep a close eye on it. Have run the motor for about an hour with no leaks. But am more concerned with corrosion and eventually not being able to get the bloody thing apart.
Cheers.
Tony
You have five (repeat five) dissimilar metals in an area of high turbulence of sea water.
1. Cast iron engine block.
2. Galvanized fitting. Steel and zinc!!
3. Brass reducers.
4. Stainless elbow.
5. Zinc anode.
Will you have galvanic action?? Yeees!!.......Will it be an ongoing problem?? Yeees!!
The QM series Yanmars are a great engine and could serve you for 50 years or more properly maintained, though they are a bit dated now so parts may be hard to obtain.
Yanmar came out with the series in the early 70's (73 or 74) as a departure from their previous slow revving under square (long stroke, narrow bore, high torque) engines to this series as a high revving dedicated marine propulsion engine where high torque is not an issue. They are a square engine (same bore and stroke), have a high compression ratio of 25:1, yet retain the fairly simple and robust construction of the previous series.
My first advice was "That particular fitting on a Myanmar is quite important. I would buy a new one."
I hold to that but in the meantime while you are hunting one down (if you can find them buy two) I would go back to the galvanized fittings with a nipple (thread, hexagon, thread or thread pipe thread) screwed into the block, then a reducer/expander to the next size up, an internally threaded "T" piece, another reducer/expander down to original size and then a threaded barb or pipe for your water hose. Then get a threaded bung for the open part of the "T' piece and drill and tap it to take a zinc anode.
You can introduce the water on the 90 or 180 degree of the "T" piece with little difference to the waterflow, to best suit the room you have and positioning of seacock etc.
Doing this you will only have 3 dissimilar metals and you will have closely duplicated the original fitting. I would use "Stag Jointing Paste" rather than teflon tape or if you must use tape get the good pink plumber's tape.
While you are making this lot up, make a second one and toss it in your tool box for a spare. A great place to buy these kinds of fittings can be your local farmer's irrigation shop. Farmers are notoriously tight with their money so you should get the right prices there.
Back off topic:- I really love my Aldi Tablet and Navionics App.

PS:- What design is your yacht and how many cylinders is your engine???