heat exchanger preventitive maintenance

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warwickl
warwickl
NSW
2360 posts
NSW, 2360 posts
11 Aug 2010 6:51pm
Another question from me.

Just wondering if there are signs of scaling/blockage level that may indicate when cleaning may be required?

I would rather be aware of potential before increased heating is observed.

So would raw salt water inlet strainer be a good starting place or is growth different at this point?

I have also been reviewing chemical cleaning methods however this approach only seems to have limited acceptance - do you use this method?

Any other suggestions?
nick0
nick0
NSW
510 posts
NSW, 510 posts
11 Aug 2010 7:17pm
i didnt understand much but thier is pencil anodes in raw water cooling system that need to be changed often
Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7757 posts
NSW, 7757 posts
12 Aug 2010 8:29am
Pretty much what Cisco said but I would suspect the raw salt water pump impeller if there was a problem cooling. The inlet filter, if fitted will stop most of the crap. The pump face just wears eventually or the impeller blades break off. Rear seals fail and salt water can in some instances run along the shaft and effect the engine oil, there is usually a gap so this water drains away. Just check it occasionally to see if its leaving a stain.

At start up, listen or look for the water coming out the exhaust.
seabird
seabird
QLD
227 posts
QLD, 227 posts
17 Aug 2010 9:12pm
I have just fitted a fresh water flush system to my fresh water cooled Volvo 2003 on the advice of my marine mechanic. The benifits being;

1) flush out the salt water cooled heat exchange, which will increase service intervals.
2) flush out the exhaust elbow that I have just replaced due to corrosion inside the eblow preventing sea water from discharging. Almost cooked the motor as it was completely blocked.

When I return from a day out I turn off the raw water intake gate valve and connect fresh water (from the galley sink) to clear hose that has been cut into the raw water intake line (with a three way fitting) above the gate valve.

I then run the motor for a few minutes to flush the system ensuring water is visble in the clear hose. I leave the sea water intake valve off (until the next trip) so fresh water remains in the heat exchange and exhaust elbow while not in use.

Time will tell if it is worth the effort. I did it more to prolong the life of the exhaust elbow (as they are becoming hard to get) rather than the heat exchange servicing.



Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7757 posts
NSW, 7757 posts
18 Aug 2010 9:03am
seabird said...


2) flush out the exhaust elbow that I have just replaced due to corrosion inside the eblow preventing sea water from discharging. Almost cooked the motor as it was completely blocked.


What happens is you have a situation were hot exhaust gas and cool water meet at this particular spot. If you motor about at reduced revs this will accumulate faster. When motoring it pays to have the diesel doing a bit of work. Your mods will have no effect what ever on this problem and just add more complexity. This section of the exhaust is usually cast iron and is sacrificial. On Kubotas its only a section a few inches long that is replaced and is not that expensive. Volvos are expensive but there are plenty of after market ones available and even in stainless steel. The stainless ones still fail eventually.
seabird
seabird
QLD
227 posts
QLD, 227 posts
19 Aug 2010 2:05pm
Cisco,
I'm not sure what's 'sexy' about a few pieces of hose and stop cock, but each to their own.

The purpose of the fresh water flush is to remove the salt water from the heat exchange and the exhaust elbow to reduce the build-up of salt deposits and slow the rust in cast iron elbow.
The fresh water flush does not enter the internal cooling system of the motor only the external.
The internal is cooled with coolant circulating thru the heat exchange.
As there are no andoes on the external cooling system of the motor I'm not sure your comments regarding galvanic action are relevant.

Another advantage of the system is if the leg intake becomes blocked it gives me an alternative method to keep water flowing thru the heat exchange to get home.

FYI the marine mechanic (Ian Coward) is a well respected man who has been in the industry for over 40 years and works out of the Moolooaba marina.
Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7757 posts
NSW, 7757 posts
19 Aug 2010 7:28pm
seabird said...

Cisco,

The internal is cooled with coolant circulating thru the heat exchange.
As there are no andoes on the external cooling system of the motor I'm not sure your comments regarding galvanic action are relevant.


You might have this arse about. The anode should be on the external cooling side. The engine has fresh water coolant mixture circulating in a system with only minor variations in metals just like a car.
The anode should be on either end of the heat exchanger close to the cooling tubes.
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