Hi All
I'm l considering buying an Adams 10 cruiser version and its currently running an outboard motor.
I would like to change that and go to an inboard motor, but its not really set up for it.
Any ideas of how much this would cost and who might do it in Sydney Harbour.

I guess I woulh have to go sail drive as opposed to shaft drive.

Cheers Patto

Patto21 said..
Hi All
I'm l considering buying an Adams 10 cruiser version and its currently running an outboard motor.
I would like to change that and go to an inboard motor, but its not really set up for it.
Any ideas of how much this would cost and who might do it in Sydney Harbour.

I guess I woulh have to go sail drive as opposed to shaft drive.

Cheers Patto

I would suggest buying an Adams 10 with an inboard engine ready to go. The market is awash with cheap yachts, just take your time and find one that suits.

Not HOG way over priced.
Found something heaps cheaper but with an outboard...

Hi Patto,
I had an Adams 10 cruising and they are a great fun boat to sail even though being a little short on head room. If you intend to use the boat for racing and only motoring from the marina to the start and back an outboard will be fine. If you intend to use the boat for any form of cruising an outboard mounted on the transom is totally useless if you encounter any choppy water. When I purchased my boat it had a 10hp Single cylinder Arona diesel shaft drive which was also totally useless in any form of sea and wind. This being the case I fitted a new 30hp 4 cylinder Vetus which was probably a bit of an over kill, but it was smooth and had heaps of grunt when required. If you are fitting a new diesel I would not consider anything less than 20hp as you will regret it in the long term. I would think a sail drive would not be that hard to fit. Even a shaft drive would go in with a little extra work. The good thing about fitting a new diesel is you know you will have reliability for years to come. Don't go for reconditioned legs and motors. My brother fitted 2 to his catamaran and ended up replacing both with new legs and motors in 12 months, over 15 grand down the drain.

In relation to the instruments (in you other post ) if you like B&G I would bite the bullet and turf the Raymarine out and buy 2 multi display heads, a new B&G mast head unit and A tridata transducer and then everything will work fine. I have full B&G on my boat which still gets its nickers in a knot at times which occasionally drops things off line for no reasons. I think to try and intergrate via nema2000 would only create problems. I have asked Raymarine and B&G about integration and neither seem to want to give me a answer.

Good luck

Or just make a Korts nozzle for the outboard.

I'm looking to do a bit of twilight racing and club stuff and some overnight cruising with my Girlfriend. I'm in Sydney harbour and would like to be able to comfortably go out and up the coast for a weekend and day trip.

I looked at zig zag, which is now Heart of gold and Its a solid boat but way over priced.

My other option is a Young 88 with an inboard already fitted. The guy has put every bell and whistle on the boat and its a bit more than I wanted to spend but with new sails and refurb including sodablasted hull and 1 yes 1 coat of antifoul its a pretty nice boat

Jode5 said..

Chris 249 said..
To throw something else into the mix, both inboard flush-deckers and Cruising Tens won the Adams Ten nats in the early years, but the standard Cruising Tens with inboards don't seem to go anywhere near that well as far as I have seen; in fact a couple of them have been remarkably slow. Perhaps the Adams Ten can handle the weight of either the inboard or the cabin, but not both?

Why not contact Graham Radford from the Adams office (who is still easy to find, I think) who had an inboard in Waggers II when he did the Hobart, and then pulled it out? Perhaps you could also find Paul Kelly, the original builder, who had the inboard C10 Zig Zag? They may give you some interesting info. Alternatively Phil from Deck Hardware knows Tens and is easy to track down.

Personally I replaced my 28'ers diesel with a Tohatsu 9.8 outboard and in a boat similar in weight and drag to the Adams, I never ran out of grunt. I haven't heard the FT10 guys really complain about the Tohatsu 9.8 they use, and some of them do a lot of offshore work. With the ultra long shaft, cavitation is very rare, probably because you have the power and prop to get the boat moving fast enough that the stern wave is providing further immersion for the prop. I've come in from offshore in swell and very heavy chop with as much ease under the outboard as under the diesel.

Hi Chris,
i owned my Adams 10 for about 11 years. It was in full cat2 trim which I raced very successfully on Moreton Bay and did 9 Brisbane to Gladstone races. Yes the cruising version is slower than the flush decker with and outboard, but we are not comparing apples for apples. The flush decker is no more than an open day sailer (early sports boat) and the cruising version is a boat fitted so you can do some small cruising which is obviously heavier. The weight of the diesel is only 1 person plus the drag of the leg which would slow the boat more than the weight of the diesel. The cruising Adams 10 is still competitive in any fleet considering it age.
As for using an outboard, I can tell you from experience 9.8hp may be fine in calm water eg. Sydney Harbour or Pitwater or a nice long rolling swell, but in Moreton Bay with 25 knots and a 1.5m chop it is totally useless. Just ask the blokes with their sports boats. It all depends on what he wants to do with the boat. The bloke that now owns my old 10 has just done a full refurbish and it looks a total picture and still goes well.

I didn't mean to say that the C10 with inboard wasn't a nice boat - it is, and I've thought about getting one myself. It's just that it is interesting that it seems from the early history of the class that a Cruising Ten with an outboard can go pretty much as well as a flush decker, and a flush decker with an inboard can go pretty well too - but when you combine the two you get (as you say) something quite different in performance. Looking at AMS and IRC ratings seems to confirm the same picture, and from what I understand the 10.5 is similar - there's more variation between identical hulls than one may expect.

It's not that the C10 with inboard isn't a great boat, it's just that (as you say) it's quite different in performance to the other variants. It would make sense that the Ten's lovely slender hull with Vee sections has a greater increase in wetted surface with extra weight than "normal" hulls with flatter and more rounded sections.

I've had no experience with an outboard on Moreton Bay but Patto appears to be going to sail around Sydney Harbour and Pittwater, where they can work well. My experience with going from inboard to outboard leads me to suspect that there's a lot more variation in the way an outboard performs than we may think.

I don't get no slappin' with my U-sectioned overhang - just an earth-shattering KABOOOMMMMMM!!!! The first time I got a big slap under the backside at anchor with my new boat I thought I'd been rammed. I can't recall if the Y88 had the same issue.

It is interesting comparing my Vee-sectioned old boat with our U sectioned new boat. Both have similar displacement/length and beam/length ratios but the different sections gives them quite different characteristics in terms of roll and noise.

Interesting to hear that the CB C10 performed well downwind.