That was awesome reading. I've been doing alot of soul searching myself lately, and couldnt seem to think what was missing in my life. After looking back through my younger years I realized I was at my happiest when i was surfing. Now I'm getting back into it and can't get enough. As it's been said, **** the pot of gold, live for the moment.
Count myself as one now thanks to sups, Monday to Friday anyway. If there are wavesgreat but if not still go for a cruise whther its in the ocean if its flat or in the river. The best part of my day by far!!!
I had to laugh, that this guy has only 15 years left to surf. I drove to my local break a while ago and there wasn't anyone else there. It was about 3 to 4 ft. Another guy pulled up next to me with his wife. He was about 50 years old. He asked me if I was going out and I just looked at him and said of course. It is a 15 minute paddle out to this break. As we walked down to the water, his wife commented that we looked like two little kids with the excitement in our eyes. I just looked at the other guy and said "she doesn't understand because she doesn't surf". I have been surfing this spot since I was about 14 years old and I am now nearly 60 years old. I still get excited everytime I go out.
