cruel, but fair

dtm said...

classic stuff DJ

+1

Love this video.

Mainly because it's shot where I lived for a couple of years. Adrian at Fluid Juice was the local shaper in that little village. Good waves there also, just not as often as some other places.

There are heaps of guys like this in England. They drive hours on a Friday to get to Cornwall or Nth Devon and get there fix. The standard of surfing is not great admittedly but you could say that these guys are hardcore. Would you walk across frozen snow and frozen sand to surf in 2 foot crap and 4 degrees water??

Thanks for posting DJ

Great little film. I think there's a bit of this character in all of us.

When I noticed the vid was nearly 15 mins long I thought I can't sit thru that as my attention span isn't great. So I pressed play and bloody enjoyed it. He's a bit of Darryl "Tell em he's dreaming "Kerrigan & John Cleese rolled into one. He'd be no good on the drink and you wouldn't want to be stuck sitting next to him on a plane. But he's got the passion and that's all that counts.

Minkee, I lived in Newquay for a very short time and hung out and worked in St Merryn just near Constantine for a good while. I also lived in Sth Yorkshire for a while and making the trip to surf on that coast in the North Sea a few times was insane. Now that's cold!

Minkee said...

CMC said...

Love this video.

Mainly because it's shot where I lived for a couple of years. Adrian at Fluid Juice was the local shaper in that little village. Good waves there also, just not as often as some other places.

There are heaps of guys like this in England. They drive hours on a Friday to get to Cornwall or Nth Devon and get there fix. The standard of surfing is not great admittedly but you could say that these guys are hardcore. Would you walk across frozen snow and frozen sand to surf in 2 foot crap and 4 degrees water??

Thanks for posting DJ

Funny vid
Gwinthian, Croyde, Puttsborough, Porthsleven, Saunton are all nice little spots. I even use to go to wales sometimes. There is a real surf culture in Cornwall and north Devon you'd be surprised... There's little villages like Croyde where it's just surf central. I've done the 3hr trip from the midlands many times. There is no way back now that we moved to qld! In 4yrs i've only worn my wetsuit about 3 times here
I just smile when people think it's cold up here though each year that passes I start to feel the cold... Not good!

It's surreal to travel through those areas. Cruising down cobble stoned lanes, through medieval cottages, with kids wearing Billabong t-shirts and boardies.

Some old stone building has a surf shop sign out the front. Inside it's all sea grass matting and t-shirts.

The car park has the usual collection of volkswagens with cute blonde girlies waiting for the boyfriend to come in.

There's a Ye Olde pub built right on the dune above the main break.

Not so sure about the surf hire on the beach. You rent a board and wettie. Stand in the shore break and guy with a megaphone yells "Paddle! Paddle! Paddle!" when a wave comes in. Other guys walking down the beach in a 3 piece suit and brief case with his trouser legs rolled up.

Thanks for posting the vid DJ, good for a laugh!

Nice to see guys reminising about the old country.

I used to surf alot of the places in the west country, up the Thatch of an evening where the waves always grew a few feet.

First board was a 6'9" Fluid Juice, still got it stashed at my mums' place.

Miss my local crew in Dorset and the reefs there but not the cold.