Hi Guys,
Rich and I yesterday did the" It has to be better at the next spot 200km drive lol"
We went to PRK first but the swell was so big it didnt even wrap the point, it just went straight through and hit the Anglesea Bombie and exploded!!!!!!!!
There were surfable waves but they were not pretty.
So off to Lorne for a look. When I came round the corner at SC there was a clean glassy MONSTER of a wave, Rich saw it too and almost ran into he back of me with his jaw wide open!
It was bigger than anything I have ever seen before, Rich an I estimated the face to be at least 15ft. We tired to find a way to get out to it but is just seemed like suicide


We eventually got to Lorne but it was all over the shop and 70000 of our closest friends were there


Back to PRK and it was worse than before!
We eventually surfed at fisho's PMSL , it was just one of those days. I would still rather have a bad day adventuring around with a mate than anything else.
Rich and I both got lectures from the WAR OFFICE when we finally got home



!
But just to see the wave at SC will stay in my memory forever. I so wanted to surf that wave, Rich thought I had lost my mind

). I have added that spot to my go and dive it and see what the bottom is like next time its
flat list.
Today I got a great surf at PRK before the tide changed. Oliver was right, when he saw me I was full on in the zone on the 9'6. I got 3 smokers earlier on and I love the way the board surfs. I just need to get 3 times fitter to surf it, when I stop paddling I fall off PMSL.
I paid penance by having to build a floating floor this afternoon with the WAR OFFICE supervising progress

. I almost snuck away a couple of times, but did not quite make it.[}:)]
What penance looks like: