Board size V wave size

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boardbumps
boardbumps
NSW
698 posts
NSW, 698 posts
4 Jun 2009 10:45am
I think from a custom design perspective that at your weight 30" wide is to wide for anything much over 4 to 5 foot face. And paddling into 6 foot waves with a slow paddler yawing all over the place is hard work, how good are you at late takeoffs?

Rod
green0
green0
VIC
18 posts
VIC, 18 posts
4 Jun 2009 12:06pm
This has been a fantastic discussion so far, thanks to everyone for contributing.
It's clear that the jury is out when considering the limits of board length, and wave size.

Watching Keahi's vid of Boiler Point was inspiring. As Keahi pointed out his board is 8' by 27",
but gets a bit wobbly in the chop. Still he seemed to be getting into those 3'ers smoothly enough.

From what I can see, SUP's as short boards are in the early days of invention, and that's what makes
this form of surfing so exciting to me. I'm sure surfers will continue to push the limits of what is possible on these boards.

Just to stir the pot a bit more, I've got a theory regarding taking late drops on a sup. When a short boarder
paddles into a sucky wave, to make the drop you paddle your guts out, and only at the last second do you
attempt to get to your feet. This becomes instinctive with time, as the board falls away from you, your feet
are only just connecting with the board (tippy toes). So once the board finds the bottom of the wave, your body
weight hasn't pushed the nose of the board down, but instead your weight comes down to the back foot, and your
on the wave.

Translate this to SUP, some kind of similar technique would need to be developed, where you remove your weight
from the board as it falls down the face, only to reconnect with your weight pushing down on the back foot,
at the tail of the board. One way this could be done, is to stand as close to the nose of the board as possible
as you paddle, and then jump back when the board starts to drop (I'm writing this with a big grin on my face by the way).
I'm sure it could be done, hey.

What ever, if I can paddle into some nice 3-4'ers I'll be stoked.
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
4 Jun 2009 6:45pm
green0 said...

This has been a fantastic discussion so far, thanks to everyone for contributing.
It's clear that the jury is out when considering the limits of board length, and wave size.

Watching Keahi's vid of Boiler Point was inspiring. As Keahi pointed out his board is 8' by 27",
but gets a bit wobbly in the chop. Still he seemed to be getting into those 3'ers smoothly enough.

From what I can see, SUP's as short boards are in the early days of invention, and that's what makes
this form of surfing so exciting to me. I'm sure surfers will continue to push the limits of what is possible on these boards.

Just to stir the pot a bit more, I've got a theory regarding taking late drops on a sup. When a short boarder
paddles into a sucky wave, to make the drop you paddle your guts out, and only at the last second do you
attempt to get to your feet. This becomes instinctive with time, as the board falls away from you, your feet
are only just connecting with the board (tippy toes). So once the board finds the bottom of the wave, your body
weight hasn't pushed the nose of the board down, but instead your weight comes down to the back foot, and your
on the wave.

Translate this to SUP, some kind of similar technique would need to be developed, where you remove your weight
from the board as it falls down the face, only to reconnect with your weight pushing down on the back foot,
at the tail of the board. One way this could be done, is to stand as close to the nose of the board as possible
as you paddle, and then jump back when the board starts to drop (I'm writing this with a big grin on my face by the way).
I'm sure it could be done, hey.

What ever, if I can paddle into some nice 3-4'ers I'll be stoked.


get pitched over the front of the board like i did on a late take off yesterday and you'll soon work it out - very scary place to be when suping

Brooko
Brooko
1672 posts
1672 posts
4 Jun 2009 7:29pm
Brendon you are so right, an 8 6" is still a massive board in the scheme of things ... I have a 7 4" gun I would only use in 10 foot waves (triple overhead) in my quiver of shortboards. An 8 6" would be for waves like waimea bay So yeah an 8 6" or 9 6" never feels under gunned for the wave I am surfing.
OG SUP
OG SUP
VIC
3516 posts
VIC, 3516 posts
4 Jun 2009 9:54pm
Waves to Rod and asks from a dumb ass point of view:

At 105Kegs and 6ft what size sup width length thickness do you think I can get away with????

I am riding a 9'6WAA and at some point I do want to slip this baby into the greenroom!

Is it possible without life insurance and ending up in traction?????

Brooko like your opinion too please

Phill
boardbumps
boardbumps
NSW
698 posts
NSW, 698 posts
4 Jun 2009 10:44pm
Hey Phil,
a 9'0 by 30.5" and around 145 litres is about right for your current condition. It takes a bit of agility to ride the sub 9'0 stuff.

Rod
Brooko
Brooko
1672 posts
1672 posts
5 Jun 2009 10:12pm
boardbumps said...

Hey Phil,
a 9'0 by 30.5" and around 145 litres is about right for your current condition. It takes a bit of agility to ride the sub 9'0 stuff.

Rod


What he said. Rod knows his stuff and surfs very well for an old guy
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