Had a great session down at Big Left - "BY MYSELF"
Woke up late to clear skys, sunshine, and placid conditions. I turned on my 'puter and wondered what big left was doing and took this screenshot.
Immediately, knowing DJ has Monday's free, I rang him and asked him if he was up for it. He said the wind was going to come up to 20kn as was predicted, I thought the same was going to happen. We decided he would give me a call after lunch to see if any changes in conditions. As I still had a bit of a cold I resigned myself to household chores, I painted some steps - every couple of minutes checking conditions to see if they had changed. By 1pm they hadn't and I had enough of the household chores and sent DJ the screenshot and rang him again in the hope he could be persuaded. By that time it was too late and he was kicking himself and couldn't make it.
When I got down to Flinders it was blowing a really slight Easterly (cross shore) , which was enough to put a bit a bump into the wave - it doesn't take much. I saw a stand up paddler coming in as I was paddling out and had a chat. It takes about 10 mins to get to the break from the carpark and I surfed for about an hour with two other young longboarders. The bigger sets were over head high, the last hour or so I had to myself. The water is quite cold now but the sunshine, was just enough to make it barely comfortable, I was still a little weak from my semi cold, but managed to get some really good rides. Was worth getting wet, even though it is way spooky there by myself - you tend to look at ever little splash.
Windy, you would have loved it.
Bugger, Hawaii, Fiji, Bali, I reckon Big Left is a bloody great wave.
That was my adventure today.
