First up this video contains no images of high performance Stand Up Surfing, it also contains no images of high performance surfing of any discription. Its a vid that shows kids of all ages playing in the ocean. If you're not interested, dont watch.
Shot this one on the same day Kristi had bikini weather in O'Grove, what a blinder of a day. Picked up my new board on Wednesday and was frothing to get into the water. Had a few dodgy ones on Thursday morning at the Front Beach but figured the cream on the pie would by on the incoming that arvo. Lugged my stuff over the hill and set up in front of my usual rip bowl left. My young bloke was frothing and so headed strait out. As is usual in these parts, once there's one grom in the water another fifteen are'nt far away. Spewing, too many kids too much current. It was doable but I would have only had to blow it once in the wrong spot and caused carnage, trudged back over the hill and grabbed my shortie. What a session, three and a half hours of flat out paddling against the current and wave catching, listening to the groms jibbering about their "last wave, next wave, how epic was that pig dog and did you see my layback?"
Not a lot of the guys I grew up surfing with are still out there but this was just like being fourteen again. Instead of my mates they were my sons mates and I kind of felt priveledged to be let back in for a while
The vid starts with one of the local girls who rips. There's a bunch of mums who look after one anothers kids up on the deck while they take turns surfing. Shay's one of them and while this is not one of her better waves...you get the idea. The girl at the end of the vid...no idea. She was about fifteen sixteen, paddled straight out to the inside and just blew minds. Again not her best wave, she was seriously ripping, massive gaffs, couple of punts and the smoothest roundhouse since Stuart Cadden! She made me realise that my short board salad days are long gone and my forehand cutty is but a ghost of its former self!
Anyway this is unquestionably the funnest surf I have had on anything in years.
You could argue that the vid doesnt belong here but I call BS on that. Its all just surfing, and besides, this is where I live.
Oh and the music...got this album on my seventeenth birthday. It reminds me of summer and surfing with my mates, hanging on the beach all day, no dramas, no jobs, no cars no worries!
Cheers
Sparx
The post on your shorter paddle was one. Who is Johnny Maya? I've never seen him surf. You were talking about paddles not looking for supping tips from who??? I know rahams can surf/sup but I haven't seen him podium lately.
It all comes back to the "do you surf for enjoyment" or to be some sort of "lair poonce". I'm sick of guys setting themselves up as surfing/supping geniuses. They would have told Mark Richards to keep his hands down (Flying Seagull!!
), Wayne Lynch to turn up on time for his heats and Owl Chapman to stop doing his drop knee on massive backside Pipe barrels!!
Embrace others that love the ocean no matter what they ride, and don't worry about their mental aberrations re:prejuidices. See you in the soup!!
Have Fun cause I don't reckon too many of you are Kelly Slater's, Kai Lenny's or Keahi D'Abboitz's. Nothing wrong with an opinion but FFS don't set yourselves up as superheroes behind the cover of a computer keyboard
